Information and discussion for successfully cultivating potatoes, the world's fourth largest crop.
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April 1, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 487
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Whole seed potato or cut??
Something that I have always wondered about, is it ok to plant small whole seed potatoes or better to buy the larger ones and split them? I just picked up some seed potatoes (Red Potomac, Kennebec, Kathalin)today at a local store. I seem to pick out the smaller but maybe should be going for the bigger ones?? Patty
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April 1, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Back in da U.P.
Posts: 1,848
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either way works.
i choose the small egg size ones to plant whole myself, but slicing up the larger ones works just as well. i did that with some larger ones last year. you want at least one eye per slice, and let them scab up overnight before planting. some people dust them with a disinfectant, but that is optional. keith |
April 1, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 625
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My mom is a master gardener but she is weak with cancer so I planted her raised bed a couple of weeks ago with her yukon golds. I had never grown potatoes before so I did this with her guidance.
She had me cut the larger potatoes, making sure I had at least one eye for each cut piece. If a potato is small, you can plant the entire thing but if it has a few eyes, you can cut it to increase your yield. This is all according to my dear mom, a master gardener. |
April 1, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 487
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Someone had said with the fingerlings to plant the bigger size to get larger potatoes. ...Don't know if that is the case or not. I know they will grow most any way there is a potato eye...even had potato peelings grow!! But does the seed potato help determine the size of the potatoes that you will be getting or it that all up to the individual plant and the amount of fertilizer it receives??
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April 1, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: zone 5b northwest connecticut
Posts: 2,570
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i prefer egg sized potatoes, plant them whole no chance of rot due to cutting them. worked fine for the years i grew potatoes.
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April 1, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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If you buy in the seed potatoes each season for planting the suggestions put forward so far in the thread are fine,but myself who maintains a collection of heirloom varsities i plant the biggest and best spuds from the heaviest producing plants each year.Rima (pictured on the left)for first ten years only grew 1 or 2 tiny small tubers,but the 5 season has seen the size increase dramatically and has really become a good producer.
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April 1, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,296
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Saw an interview with a potato grower who planted the whole potato because the cut potato invited wireworms. We don't have those too much around here but it made sense. He said the cost would be higher, but safer. Me, I still cut the potatoes into chunks. Did it today as a matter of fact.
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April 2, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,013
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I am a bit confused by the concept that planting whole potatoes rather than sections that are sliced into pieces with one or two eyes would lead to bigger potato fruits.
I had thought that the genetics of the individual eye would carry forth whatever gene would leads to larger potatoes. I can see why planting a whole potato would carry more eyes and, therefore, more plants and fruit, but the size of the individual potatoes that result should still be driven by genetics and nutrition, not by the planting of a whole large potato. Often, I have seen the bulk of the whole potato simply rot after the plants have formed. Once those individual plants have set forth roots, the original remaining potato would no longer serve a function and lead to rotting and possibly even attracting pests and disease. Chitting the potato to develop large eyes that are rooted or ready to root would seem the better alternative to merely sticking a whole large potato in the ground. Sufficiently large sections containing heathy, large eyes should contain the genetic material to determine fruit size. I do follow the British practice of leaving the original potatoe in the sun to launch the chlorophine and sugar buildup and the shade and a bit of moisture to develop the eyes, but after that cut them into smaller sections, unless growing specifically for small "new" or spring potatoes as in the deliciously sweet red or white varieties. But, for those large bakers, I select the biggest I can find and then follow the routine above. Years ago, having tried the route of planting the whole, large potatoes, it was not unusual to dig down later into a stinking mush of insect laden rotted mush. Could having the new buds relying upon that original large potato for nutrition even slow the need of the plant to send out roots? |
April 2, 2010 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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Quote:
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April 5, 2010 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 851
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Seems to me its like garlic, and a matter of energy rather than genetics. Plant the largest thing possible to get the biggest plant, which will then be able to make larger potatoes....up to their genetic limit. Roots are needed to get nitrogen from the soil, and themselves don't need as much of the nutrients that green tops do so a big seed potato would be able to put out more roots quicker and better take advantage of soil nutrients before the tops have to take over responsibility for overall growth.
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April 5, 2010 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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Certainly that's what ive notice happening within my previous years volunteer patch TZ,another thing ive noticed also,the larger the seed spud the thicker the stems that emerge from the ground.
I believe its not so much that a large seed potato grows larger potatoes but that they tend to grow a larger crop of similar size to what was planted ,but on the end of the scale very small seed spuds only seem to grow small potatoes. |
April 6, 2010 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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A little trick someone told me about many years ago that you might want to try when cutting your potatoes. After cutting them put them in a paper bag and dump in some plain garden sulfur and shake them, then let them dry for about a day and then plant. It seems to cut down on the number of pieces that rot and it helps acidify the soil a little.
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April 6, 2010 | #13 |
Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204
Posts: 1,157
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I have many opinions on whole and cut potatoes for planting but I thought I could show better that say. Let's see how do I do this........?
I have two photos here...one with my potato varieties laid out ready to cut and the second one cut up ready for planting. This is part of a pictorial of my potato breeding and Darrel Jones.....Fusion_power took the pictures from a shipment I sent to him a few years ago. Thanks again Darrel! I had my son, Kaighin, help me figure out the mechanics of getting these photos out of one of my PowerPoints into a saved picture file and then to the attachment files of the Additional Options that is below the Reply to Thread area where one would type the words to reply...If all of this works then I may be able to post more of my tons of pictures of potatoes and tomatoes. Now if I could imagine how to post larger photos than just thumbnails.... Tom Wagner |
May 8, 2010 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 851
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I just wanted to add this link to a reference Tom Wagner provided in another post
http://www.cipotato.org/library/pdfdocs/TIBen5099.pdf It discusses production and plant density, with a "plant" being an individual emergent stem-root unit from one eye, either from the same seed piece or from a different one (my wording). So, for example, in an area of one square foot of soil one whole potato growing four eyes is more or less equal to two seed peices each with two eyes as far as pounds of potatoes per square foot of soil. Fewer "plants" in a given area yield larger potatoes, but greater yield, up to a point, will be had with more plants in a given area, each producing slightly fewer and slightly smaller tubers. I am guessing that this is all assuming an equal amount of storage material (tuber weight) behind each eye (e.g 1 oz tater flesh per eye). Which would make sense since a farmer is trying to minimize the cost = weight of seed potatoes he has to buy. That gets away from the question "I want to grow a huge potato for the county fair, how do I do it?" I would take a big whole seed potato and grow out one eye/plant in a hill off by itself. |
May 13, 2010 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Lakeland FL
Posts: 74
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i do the same Red
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