Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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July 1, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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Leaves turning pale green and red veins
Hi everyone,
I have a concern about some of my tomato plants. I planted some tomatoes in containers about 3 weeks ago and they looked to be doing great. But in the last few days the the lower leaves are starting to turn a pale green and are starting to get some red veins. I doubt is is a nutrient deficiency but I could be wrong. I used GreenAll soil booster and added Bone Meal, Epsom salt, kelp extract, and fertilizer in the soil. What is going on? |
July 1, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: No.Central Arkansas - 6b/7a
Posts: 179
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Could you possibly post a picture? A description is so subjective that it is difficult to even begin guessing. For example: red veins might be purple veins and indicative of a phos deficiency but that is just speculation.
I will say that I think you went way over-board on all the amendments, especially for containers since organic supplements are of very limited benefit in containers. There is no soil food web established to digest them so the plants can use them. What size are your containers? What potting mix are they filled with? Dave
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Dave |
July 1, 2015 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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July 1, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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While we wait for the pictures, the description of red veins is consistent with phosphorus deficiency, the description of lighter green leaves on the older growth is consistent with nitrogen deficiency. That doesn't mean there is an actual deficiency of those nutrients, I would say that's highly unlikely looking at the contents of the EB Stone potting soil and Soil Booster. Deficiencies can be induced by over-watering which starves the roots and the nutrient cycling microbes of oxygen.
I'm sure there are beneficial bacteria in the GreenAll products, it's natural with products containing manures, worm castings and composts. Do they add additional beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae to their products too? |
July 1, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Round Rock, TX, Zone 8b
Posts: 1,157
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A picture would really help. How are the undersides of the leaves looking?
Also, red veins seem to be more consistent with nitrogen or sulfur deficiency than phosphorus deficiency (which would show more purple veins and undersides). Take a look at the nitrogen and sulfur deficiency pictures here and see if that's what your leaves look like: http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge...ency_symptoms/
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-Kelly "To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow." - Audrey Hepburn Bloom where you are planted. Last edited by TexasTycoon; July 1, 2015 at 02:35 PM. |
July 1, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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Thanks for the link. I would say the nitrogen deficiency pic looks closest to what I have going on. The oldest bottom leaves look the worst but seems to be making it's way up the whole plant. Even the upper newer leaves that are still green are starting to show some red veins on the bottom of the leaves at the sides. Also I haven't watered much, just when I planted them and maybe a couple times a week if that. The soil is pretty dry when I stick my finger in.
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July 1, 2015 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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July 1, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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Yeah still trying to figure out the best watering schedule. The top 4-5 inches of soil is dry but starts to feel damp after that. Is that not enough water?
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July 1, 2015 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: No.Central Arkansas - 6b/7a
Posts: 179
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A "schedule" for watering isn't always the best for the plants. It usually leads to periods of over-watering followed by periods of under-watering. That inconsistent soil moisture level creates several problems for the plants as already mentioned.
The ideal is to learn to read the plants as they will indicate by lost leaf turgor when they need water. Failing that sticking your hand or even a wooden dowel deep into the soil can give you better feedback on when to water. Since most gardeners have a heavy tendency to over-water I always tell them, when in doubt - don't do it. Plants will tolerate under-watering better than they will over-watering. And, if you can see your soil surface - which is never a good indicator for water anyway - then the plants aren't heavily mulched as they should be. That practice alone can stabilize soil moisture levels and save water. Dave
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Dave |
July 1, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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Ok thanks. I use a small layer of rubber mulch.
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July 1, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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Pics
Here are a couple pics of the worst ones.
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July 1, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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July 1, 2015 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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July 1, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 27
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I got all the rubber mulch removed, man I feel like a dummy. I've should have know better but I'm new to this. Guess I'm not taking advise from the home depot guy anymore. Do you think my plants will recover or did I poison them to death?
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July 2, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Illinois, zone 5a
Posts: 579
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Don't beat yourself up - you were wise enough to come to Tomatoville! There are so many wonderful, experienced people here who are so generous with their time and expertise (as you're seeing now). Stick with it and you'll do great.
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