From Seed to Garden: A Chance to Share Your Technique

[mms]

While reading another post I saw that a couple of people had mentioned that a thread on seed starting technique would be very useful to them. I have seen many posts about starting seed, but not one that covers the entire process.

Everyone has there own way of getting from Point A (a pack of seeds) to Point B (a healthy, growing plant in the garden), and I am sure it works for them. I am hoping that someone, or several, might be willing to share their entire process of going from Point A to Point B. I think this would be very interesting reading, and I can always use a few more tips and tricks as I am sure many others can.

The amount of detail you wish to go into is entirely up to you.

Thanks,
MMS

[nctomatoman]

Here is mine, as specific as I can make it - though please ask questions to clarify anything!

My seed starting process:

Fill a 50 cell rigid plastic plug flat (I purchase them in boxes of 5 from Johnny's) with dry soilless mix - either Fafard 3b or, preferably, MetroMix 360 - not quite to the top of the ridges. Be sure to do something to label a few of the cells - I number the left front as 1, right front as 10, then next row back, left to right, becomes 11-20, etc. I cross reference the cell number to a notebook where I record the variety, vial number, number of seeds planted and the date of planting.

Water well with warm water - water will come out the bottom holes just a bit.

With my finger, gently smooth the surface of the cells and remove any large pieces of bark, sticks, etc.

Sprinkle the seeds (I use between 3 and 30, depending upon my goal) on the surface of the moistened mix. I DO NOT plant the seeds in indentations or holes!

Once all 50 cells are planted, I sprinkle just a bit of dry soilless mix over each cell - the seeds are covered with no more than 1/16 inch of mix, in most cases probably even less. I then gently spray each cell with water to moisten the surface.

I bring the planted plug flat upstairs to sit on a heat mat in front of a south facing window - and cover it loosely with Saran Wrap. Every few days I turn over the Saran Wrap, which removes excess water.

I typically see germination in 4-5 days. Once a good number of seeds are up, I remove the Saran Wrap - I am starting to cut smaller pieces to cover the cells that have yet to emerge.

I leave the flat in front of the window for 1-2 weeks, until the plants are stretching too much and becoming leggy. Throughout this time, I mist once or twice a day with water to help any stuck seed coats to release. Once the plants get going well, I also water each cell well - you do not want the young seedlings to dry out!

The germinated flats then go into my cool garage (unheated) under fluorescent shop lights, lowered so that the bulb is an inch or so above the top of growth.

If I get sunny warm days, I ease the flats into direct sun over a week or so, increasing time of direct exposure a bit each day - be sure they are well watered! After a week, they stay in the sun as I gradually transplant into 4 inch pots.

I won't go into the plug of 25 or so plants into 4 inch pots yet - but I do not baby the seedlings (as Lee witnessed when he visited me today and found out how I can do 100-150 4 inch pot transplants in an hour!)

[giardiniere]

Craig

What type of potting soil do you use, when you transplant into individual 4" pots? Do you use the same type, in which you started the seedlings? I started my seeds in Jiffy Mix, and bought more of the same to transplant them into. After I did the transplanting, I wondered if I should have used something like Miracle Grow. Did I do OK? They seem to be doing fine, not growing exceptionally fast (the tallest is probably 2" tall), but I have started fertilizing with fish emulsion, and I do have about 4 weeks before I set them out.

[Lee]

Craig can add to this, but since I saw his technique, I thought I'd respond.
He uses the same Metromix 360 to transplant them in.
Quite rapidly I might add. His secret is tough love.

As for me, I've been using/transplanting in the same Ferry Morse mix from Lowes this year. My seedlings don't look the best right now. Not sure if it's too much water or the mix or what. However, in the future I'm gonna go with the
tried and true metromix myself.

I think your plan of Jiffy mix and fish emulsion is a good one. Just keep 'em away from cats!

Lee

[giardiniere]

Thanks for the help Lee, and I will keep them away from the cats. Although today I have them sunning themselves out on the driveway (the seedlings, not the cats). It's a beautiful day.
I wish I could find Metromix 360 around here. Maybe, I'm not looking hard enough.

[nctomatoman]

Dave, as Lee stated, I use MetroMix 360 (or Fafard 3b if I can't find it) to pot up the plants, as well as for seed starter. I go through about 30-40 bags (2.8 cubic feet) per season, and it tends to run about 10.00 per bag. I don't fertilize the seedlings at all - just sun and water.

As far as finding MetroMix 360, perhaps call around local gardening and farm supply shops. I get mine at Wyatt Quarles, a commercial gardening supplier.

[Full Moon]

Craig, I'm quite sure I won't be able to find metro mix here so can you give me a rough idea of the content/ratio. I'd like to try to find something similar on my side of the planet. Cheers

[giardiniere]

Thanks for all the info kc, Craig, and Lee. It's all very helpful, and answers my questions.

BTW kc, I live in Pittsburg, so thanks for the information about Cash Grain and Fertilome.

[Full Moon]

Kc, thanks I'll go check out what I can find. Asbestos....nasty stuff, lost someone very dear to me last year to it. I didn't use to bother too much but now I do wear mask when mixing soil.

[MsCowpea]

"""Some vermiculite sources contain asbestos and exposure is greatest from dusts. """


There was ONE mine where asbestos was found and it was closed 10 years ago. It was apparently a different type of geological formation.

Testing is done on mines where ver. is mined.

My grandfather died of lung cancer from asbestos so I know it can be a cause for concern but everything I have read about vermiculite today indicates the problem was resolved years ago though misinformation is still impacting their business. I used to be able to buy large bags of vermiculite in Home Depot and now they won't carry it.

When mixing, yes it is a good idea to wear a dust mask and that is the case with any dusty product.

[soeur]

I've mixed hundreds of cubic yards of peatlite mix (I'm the propagator at a nursery), and have discovered a surefire method for getting that water-repelling peatmoss to moisten up pronto: First put the perlite into whatever you're making your mix in -- a wheelbarrow, for example -- and wet it down with a good shower from the hose. I use a wand with a breaker to get a good even rainlike shower over the whole pile of perlite. This wetting settles the perlite dust immediately, so you can toss the perlite to make sure it's all moist. The water clings to each perlite particle, so when you mix in your well pulverized peatmoss and distribute it throughout the perlite, the moss gets moist as you mix. By the time everything's well mixed, it's well moistened. Couldn't be easier.

[Suze]

I'm bumping this up for someone who was asking me about Craig's technique.

Also, the seed starting link on his page is still good, see:

http://nctomatoman.topcities.com/Tec...ingsMethod.htm

Others, feel free to add to this thread. I would, but I've got a full plate right now with seed starting, raised bed building, work, etc. For those looking for good, basic seed starting suggestions, see also:

http://www.tomatoville.com/viewtopic.php?t=3431

[LoreD]

I'd like to make sure I'm getting this right.

Always wear mask when mixing.

I buy one bag peat moss and one bag perlite (better than vermiculite), mix together 50-50 and wet thoroughly with water (1tsp environmentally friendly dishwashing soap per gallon water).

Also that I should wet perlite first so that it will thoroughly absorb the water.

I was trying to put all that information together.

LoreD

[feldon30]

I do about 50% peat moss, 25% perlite, 25% vermiculite. I wet it all with warm soapy water. The soap makes all the difference. Trying to do it without the soap turns it into a real mess as the peat moss steadfastly refuses to absorb the water, so you get dry clumps floating on top of the water.

This way, it's just as good as the bagged stuff which costs 10x as much.

[celticman]

When I worked for the universities we usually made our own mix and added micronutrients. Wetting agents are not necessary if one simply moistens the soil

kctomato I am curious what micronutrients do you add?

I use a very similiar techneque to Craig's. I however am not interested in growing a thousand seedlings so I plant 4 or 5 seeds (more for my wife favorates) in a 4"pot very similar to the way Craig does. (I basic got the method from Craig and modified it over time.) I generally only want two or three plants the extra seed is insurance and I give any excess away and only in rare case have I not had at least one tom to plant. Each pot gets covered with plastic wrap and is rubber banded in place. Once the seedling germinate I remove the plastic and transfer to the garage. (Were they get enough sunlight I am not partically careful about putting them in full sun) Getting them to a cool place and watering sparingly is I think the the key to preventing damp off.
This method allows me to start peppers, flowers, eggplants and anything else I want in the same flat and keep them covered with out to much work.
I then transplant them to a 4"pot and six week later to a gallon pot. During transplanting I bury the stem to the first leaf to insure plenty of root ball. They of corse are moved out of the garage on warm sunny days.
The last frost is Apirl 15th but I do not put them out until the second weekend in May. Black cherry started in Jan will consistantly produced it first fruit by June.
I am only after fifty toms not a thousand.
Tim