New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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October 21, 2010 | #1 |
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Using cell packs to germinate!
I only plan on growing about 100 seedlings next spring. I have built a four bulb, 6500 k, daylight type, light box. I have about 24" clearance to move the growing table up and down. The light box has reflective material on three sides. A small electric heater will heat the space below the growing table if needed. I am growing in a shop which will have heat maintained between 75 and 80 degrees. I have a timer on the lights and plan to use 16 hours on and 8 hours off to grow.
I've never been a fan of up potting seedlings. I prefer to plant and let grow. I plan on ordering a supply of 6 cell growing packs with holes in the bottom for bottom watering after the seeds germinate. The growing cells in each pack are 3 1/2" deep and about 2" X 2.25" long and wide. the cell packs will fit in a standard 1020 flat with 36 cells per flat. I've noticed over the years that the commercial greenhouses who supply the nursery grown tomato seedlings to stores often use the same cell packs. When you remove one of the seedlings from the cell, it is usually root bound and about 12" tall with a strong main stem. I assume they plant the seed directly into the cell and allow the seedling to grow without up potting. I plan on using a soil less growing medium filling each cell about 3/4 full. I will plant two seeds in each cell with the intent of removing the weaker of the two plants if both seeds germinate in each cell. I will cover each flat of cells with Saran wrap after planting the seed and moistening. I will remove the Saran wrap after the seeds germinate. I will use a small oscillating fan to move air around the seedlings after germination. I plan on growing under the lights for four to six weeks moving the table down to accommodate growth. I will start germination with the cells about two inches below the lights. After four to six weeks, I will start moving the seedlings outside a little each day to harden off. At eight weeks of growth, I should be past my last frost date and ready to plant in the soil. I have a pressurized spray bottle to keep the planting soil moist after I remove the Saran Wrap. I am curious if anything can be added to the spray mist to help prevent damping off. At some point I will probably add small amounts of fertilizer to apply in a foliar spray manner. I've never done this, so feel free to shoot my plan full of holes. Every criticism you provide will help me improve my plans. Thanks Ted Last edited by tedln; October 22, 2010 at 09:45 PM. |
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