General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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May 21, 2008 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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New EarthTainer Rev. "C" simplified design (with PICS)
One of the elements of the self-supporting cage system was the outside "Port" and "Starboard" wire rope that kept the cages vertical and rigid. However, this cabling made it difficult to raise the lid and black plastic moisture barrier to empty the potting mix, etc.
The wiring also interferes a bit with the plants. So I have come up with an alternative way of securing the Aeration Bench to the outer container shell and still maintain the rigidity of the entire system. First, after using 8 wire rope clips on the legs of the cages sitting on the Aeration Bench, I then add 6 clips to the underside to firmly anchor the cages to the Bench. I use a hollow wall anchor bolt that goes through the outer container, and into the side of the Aeration Bench. You need to place the hole ABOVE the water level so it won't leak when the 'Tainer is full. This Rev "C" approach costs about the same, but you now are able to easily lift up the lid and mulch to plant, etc. When the 'Tainer is full, there is approx 160 pounds of water and moistened potting mix with a low center of gravity, so even with fully loaded tomato plants, it is quite stable and not prone to tip over. Ray |
May 21, 2008 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Louisiana. Zone: 8
Posts: 207
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Couple question regarding your container. Do you fertilize with a strip of fertilizer on top of the soil? And it seems like a significant amount of water would drain into the top of the soil with all the holes from caging?
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May 21, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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cLa,
I use a fertilizer strip (actually one for each plant) shown below: Regarding water entering topside through openings in the moisture barrier (mulch), the rain water will simply "percolate" down through the potting mix, into the reservoir. Ray |
May 21, 2008 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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Ray,
I believe using bungee cord hooking to the edge will be the easiest. dcarch
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May 21, 2008 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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dcarch,
I had thought about using 2 bungee cords, but you want something with less "flex" as tomatoes weighing lopsidedly could cause the cage system to tip over and out of the container shell. If you look at what Truckers use to tie down loads, it is an adjustable nylon strap with a clamp mechanism acting very much like a ViseGrip plier. Something similar but light duty would be the optimum solution. Come on, you gave us the high limb rope saw, so if anyone can find a solution, you should be the "go-to" guy. Ray |
May 21, 2008 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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Quote:
Sew Velcro on fabric straps and use them to tie down the cages. I used Velcro to tie down many out door items. Works great, even in very high wind. dcarch
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May 22, 2008 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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dcarch,
I am not sure the velcro could be attached to the container very permanently. I want to go back to your idea of bungee cord. I have taken a measurement and would need a cord that was 33" in its relaxed state, and would stretch to no more than 36 " under full tension. I have seen these black rubber straps that have limited stretch, but they are quite thick and "in the way". I would like to find a narrow diameter material with hooks on each end that would meet this requirement. Any ideas??? Ray |
May 22, 2008 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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Quote:
You can find bungee cords on ebay. They also sell cords without hooks. You can make your own hook using wire coat hangers. This way you can custom the length. dcarch
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May 22, 2008 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Ray, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
May 22, 2008 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Louisiana. Zone: 8
Posts: 207
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http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...der/earth7.jpg
I actually leaned this one to an angle and the only open space is right at the plant stem which I have minimized. From experience I have learned that keep water off the top keeps the plant less confused. The roots get a very steady amount of water from below, but on the soil surface the plant experiences moisture only by condensation within the system, which is also very consistent, so the roots know exactly what they are getting and never get bombarded by too much water. And the theory is, that if you keep the top completely protected from rein water, than the roots will have better control of how the fertilizer affects the plant. Essentially as I experienced in the past, my first self watering container was too wet up top, and the fertilizer just saturated the soil too quickly, and my plants were stunted. Anyway, this plant picture above is old, and currently it is taking off, I'll get an update pic soon. |
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