Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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May 1, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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There is bad news and there is good news:
The Bad news is that it looks like I have early blight, and I am having a bout of blossom drop. The good news is that I have been spraying with neem oil for a while because of the aphids, and I think that has actually helped because it has not really gotten worse. The other good news is that it is being cool, and it is not scorching hot yet.
I went and bought the copper spray (can't remember the name right off hand something-cop), and started using that tonight. I am hoping it works. I really have no idea what I am doing in regards to disease control. I did not even think blight was possible out here in the desert because it is so dry. I guess I was wrong. I even might of had it last year, but did not know that is what it was. It seems like the plants grew out of it, if that is possible. Can anyone tell me if I should get rid of the plants that have signs of the early blight, or should I just keep spraying them? Will they recover? Does anyone have any advice in regards on how I can prevent this from happening again, since it seems to be soil and air born? Oh yeah I forgot, what about Daconil, should I use it instead? I bought both it and the copper one because I was not sure. Thanks for everything. |
May 1, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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[early blight]
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/p...ly_blight.html Early blight is not a systemic disease, it is simply a fungus growing on the outside of the plant. If you cut off infected parts and spray it with a fungicide, the plant will just keep on trucking. It is worse in humid environments than dry environments. Daconil is a preventative treatment. It will not kill early blight fungus on leaves that are already infected. It prevents the fungus from taking hold on healthy leaves, until it is washed off by rain, at which point you need to treat the plant again. I don't know how copper fungicides work exactly. I usually cut off infected foliage and dispose of it away from the garden, without spraying. With early blight, this is often all that I need to do if the weather stays mostly dry. (With late blight, once it takes hold the plant is a goner unless it has some genetic resistance, because the infection spreads really fast.)
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May 1, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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Thank you, sometimes I do a search and it still does not tell me what I need to know. I will try to cut off all affected parts. It is hard to reach some of them though.
Thanks again, Sammiek |
May 1, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Collierville TN
Posts: 106
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I spray my plants with a solution of 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 10 parts water. It kills any surface fungus.
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.c...de-garden.html
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May 2, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Are you using the 3% hydrogen peroxide?
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May 2, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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I had not tried it yet, but it is on my list of to do things.
I was thinking that was one of the ways I was going to deal with this early blight. |
May 2, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Collierville TN
Posts: 106
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Yes. I use the 3% mixed 1 bottle to 10 parts water. At the beginning of the season I use 35% in a yard sprayer to spray the beds before planting at a mix rate of 2 oz. per gallon.
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