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New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

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Old February 8, 2011   #16
dice
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Quote:
I did not like the compressing of the seed mix (dang it!).
Not fatal, the seedlings simply have to put a little more energy
into rooting. If you have a container mix with a lot of earthworm
castings in it (like 1/3 to 1/2), those lack any air space once they
get wet (physical structure of wet mud), so compressing the mix
from top watering is more of an issue for the seedlings than in a
mostly peat or mostly coir seed-starting mix.

Peat takes awhile to re-wet once it dries out completely. I use
a $7 moisture meter to test to get an idea of how dry they are
and how long it takes them to get how dry after they have been
watered. Sometimes they look moist and feel moist on the top,
yet the moisture meter tells me that they need watering.

If the seedlings are not wilting, they are not too dry yet,
no matter what the moisture meter says. But if it reads down
in the dry range, they are very close to wilting, and one hot day
can do damage.

Your high humidity inside your plastic cover probably provides
some protection against that.
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Last edited by dice; February 8, 2011 at 01:27 AM. Reason: humidty
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Old February 8, 2011   #17
BSue54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dice View Post
Once the seeds sprout, I do not use hydrogen peroxide unless
I see fungi growing on the surface of the seed-starting mix
(it has been too wet). If the seedlings have already been potted
up once, I do not use it at all in the soil. One can also spray it for
foliar disease control of some foliage diseases, similar to
b54red's use of clorox solutions for the same problem.
Hydrogen peroxide does not last long on the plant or in the
container mix. It reacts quickly with organic matter in the
environment.
I noticed, when I was placing the light over my seedlings that there is some fuzzy white stuff (looks like wispy mold???) on the surface of some of the peat pods, with the seedlings in them. Is this the fungus of which you speak, and should I water with the peroxide solution now?

Thanx
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Old February 9, 2011   #18
RayR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSue54 View Post
I noticed, when I was placing the light over my seedlings that there is some fuzzy white stuff (looks like wispy mold???) on the surface of some of the peat pods, with the seedlings in them. Is this the fungus of which you speak, and should I water with the peroxide solution now?

Thanx
Bobbie in Cut-N-Shoot
The white mold is more common when using potting soil as a seed starting medium then using a sterile mix, but it is usually a sign of not enough light, not enough air circulation, too much dampness on top of the soil or a combination.
I've found that sprinkling some clean sand or bird grit (ground up granite from the pet supply store) on top of the soil will make the mold go away. I got this tip from a horticultural guy some time ago and it works. Fungi unlike algae finds a rocky surface inhospitable to growth.
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Old February 9, 2011   #19
kath
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I've had luck with spritzing the surface with diluted hydrogen peroxide; never tried actually pouring it on.
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Old February 9, 2011   #20
Stepheninky
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Spray with a little H2O2 as suggested or take a pinch of baking soda (not baking powder and add it to some water. and spay that on.

When you use jiffy pods they can tend to get water logged easily. when you soak them the first time pour off excess water and before planting in them give them a slight squeeze. Peat pods are convenient and I use them but they sometimes are a pain to keep just right water wise, you do not want them too wet and you do not want them too dry either.
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Old February 9, 2011   #21
RayR
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I've had luck with spritzing the surface with diluted hydrogen peroxide; never tried actually pouring it on.
Spritzing a little on the soil surface is one thing, but drenching with Hydrogen Peroxide sounds like asking for dead seedlings. What would be the point anyway since the fungus is a soil surface problem?

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Originally Posted by Stepheninky View Post
Spray with a little H2O2 as suggested or take a pinch of baking soda (not baking powder and add it to some water. and spay that on.

When you use jiffy pods they can tend to get water logged easily. when you soak them the first time pour off excess water and before planting in them give them a slight squeeze. Peat pods are convenient and I use them but they sometimes are a pain to keep just right water wise, you do not want them too wet and you do not want them too dry either.
I think it's prudent to test any chemical solution before going all the way on seedlings or plants. I had a problem with what appeared to be powdery mildew on some catnip. I tried the mild baking soda solution on it, it took care of the mildew alright, but it also caused considerable foliar damage to the plant—ugly! Some plants are more sensitive to some chemical compounds then others.

Last edited by RayR; February 9, 2011 at 02:03 AM.
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Old February 9, 2011   #22
Stepheninky
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Originally Posted by RayR View Post
Spritzing a little on the soil surface is one thing, but drenching with Hydrogen Peroxide sounds like asking for dead seedlings. What would be the point anyway since the fungus is a soil surface problem?
For fungus surface is fine but 3% H2O2 will not kill your seedlings, That is simply not true. It breaks down quickly into water and oxygen. The oxygen is actually good for the roots. It also can flush the soil of excess salts etc...
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Old February 9, 2011   #23
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What can I say Stephen, I'm a chicken when it comes to introducing chemical compounds to soil or plants. I'm aware that 3% H2O2 is reasonably safe as a anti fungal and antibacterial, but higher concentrations can be damaging if not deadly. As far as any other claims to its benefits as a drench, is there any scientific proof that it makes any difference one way or the other? Stuff that sounds good in theory doesn't alway pan out in practice. Maybe I'll experiment myself.
I just look at soil surface fungus as an environmental issue, for some reason(s), the conditions are right for fungus to grow and be happy. So the best solution is to make the conditions for the fungus unhappy. Sterile seed starting mix, more light, less surface moisture/humidity, better air circulation, sand or bird grit on the surface of the soil. Fungus hates all those things, it works for me, no damping off disease, no mold, totally inert remedies, no chance of screwing anything up.
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Old February 9, 2011   #24
dice
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I do not use 3% hydrogen peroxide ("drug store peroxide") full
strength. I use 1 part of that to 10 parts water, so it is 1/11
of that strength, or .27%, regardless of whether I am watering
seedlings with it that have not been potted up yet or spraying it
on foliage or on the top of seed-starting mix.

Here is a web site with strength of solution recommendations
for using hydrogen peroxide on plants:
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.c...-peroxide.html

It breaks down quickly into water and oxygen. You could hardly
find a less toxic fungicide. I do not value the "adds oxygen in
the soil" aspect of it that much, because it will kill beneficial
bacteria and mycorrhizae, too, which I dust spores of onto
the roots when potting up into 4" pots (or equivalent). That
aspect of hydrogen peroxide's action in the soil, adding oxygen,
is probably more useful to root-bound houseplants in potting
mix that decayed to silt years ago than it is to new tomato
seedlings in seed-starting mix.
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Old February 9, 2011   #25
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Well, after reading the replies, I believe I will leave them under the lights all day today, and see what has developed (or un-developed) when I get home tonight.

I will also learn from this experience - and squeeze some of the excess water out of the Jiffy pellets next time.

Thanks for your input.
Bobbie
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