May 1, 2011 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I've also had better success with peppers in pots.
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May 1, 2011 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Iowa Zone 5
Posts: 305
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I agree with NC and feldon, ’ve also noticed a dramatic increase of pepper plant production when grown in containers. But I don’t think it’s warmer or ‘hot roots’, but more consistent drainage, especially for cayennes.
I grow pepper plants in white pots in half a day sun and basically see all pepper plants out produce those grown in the ground. What’s confusing is when growing seedlings, you can’t seem to overwater pepper plants, but tomato plants will shrivel. I’ve learned a tomato plant that is drooping needs watered, preferably bottom watered, but too much ‘love’ will cause problems, though when pepper plants are drooping you can’t give them too much H2O.
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May 8, 2011 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Minneapolis Minnesota
Posts: 25
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I have to disagree about the watering. I find that pepper seedlings hate having 'wet feet' and will quickly yellow and even drop leaves when overwatered. I usually wait until they wilt slightly before watering.
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May 8, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I get just the reverse with larger and more productive plants in the garden than in containers. I plant all of my peppers in raised beds so they have the advantage of the natural soil and good drainage. I also have found it beneficial to pinch off the first couple of peppers if the plant is still small. I like to let my bells get at least 18 inches tall before I allow them to set fruit. It means waiting a little longer but getting many more and larger fruits. I also set my peppers a little deeper just because they can stand up better in the wind; but I have never really noticed any difference in planting deep or at the original level.
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