General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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March 16, 2012 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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Quote:
I wonder if these "ideal" ratios are a legacy of the synthetic age, when fertilizers were applied in immediately available forms. In the organic world, applying 2-6-3 (or 2-1-3 or whatever) doesn't mean that a specific proportion of nutrients will be available to the plant at any given time. You have to look at the ingredients and application instructions (initial + subsequent dosing). Even then, nutrient availability is subject to any number of factors. I'm not familiar with the ingredients in the Fox Farms product, but let's use it's NPK as an example. 7-4-5 may seem like a lot of N in proportion to PK. But, if the N is from a quickly available form, like blood meal, then it's going to provide a quick boost of N precisely when the plant needs it. By the time fruit has commenced, it will have tailed off to perhaps 30-40% of it's peak. P from rock phosphate will be more slowly available than P from bone meal. K, most commonly from potassium sulfate or K-Mag are both minerals and take some time to become available. To complicate matters further one has to consider pre-existing substrate and environmental conditions, not to mention container substrate. Are you using a straight peat-lite mix? Or, a premium mix that's been fortified with forest humus, kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano, mycos etc. etc. If you're using mycos, you don't need as much P to get the same response. So, just a long-winded way of saying that there's a lot that factors into the NPK equation, especially with regard to organic fertilizers. |
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