General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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March 28, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 257
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What mix do you put in your container?
I've been growing in containers - traditional not self watering - for years using potting mix, compost/manure and sand. My plants do fine BUT...I'm always looking for something better.
I'd like to experiment with some other mediums so...What do you use in your container mix? I realize this topic has probably been worn out but I can't get the "search" to work for me. Links are welcome. |
March 28, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 71
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I just downloaded a PDF about growing potatoes only in perlite, so I might give them a try. It's a little late in the season for me to start, but I'm still going to try.
Normally, I grow in 3 parts miracle gro potting mix, two part small pine bark and one part perlite for all my containers. I mix in some organic fertilizer. I do like to experiment, though. So, if you have any suggestions on new or unique grow media, I'd love to hear about them. Brian |
March 28, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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I like to grow in a mix of 5 parts fir bark, 1 part peat and 1 part perlite. This mix drains great and could never be overwatered. I use a 5-6 month complete time release fert plus I add lime. This mix is adjustable for hotter reigons, just add 1 more part peat. This mix in my experience wont grow the largest tomatoes but it sure does grow tasty ones.
Damon |
April 5, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NV
Posts: 36
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This year I am using: Perlite, compost/manure, peat moss, some garden soil, topped with potting soil. The garden soil is time released Miracle Grow.
For future planting I plan to use strictly pottiing soil & the usual plant food. Here's a link posted previously by another poster, another thread. Tapla's 5-1-1 Container Mix in More Detail http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/...444023053.html Last edited by Duets; April 5, 2012 at 07:50 PM. |
April 5, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I've got a question for you guys that grow in containers more than I do. I have noticed since I started adding bark fines to my mix that I sometimes get very strong indications of iron deficiency. I never had this before using the bark fines so I feel it has something to do with the problem. If I notice it early enough and add an iron supplement before the new growth gets too pale it will reverse itself but once the new growth gets that very pale yellow look it is usually too late and all the new growth will eventually turn white and die. I have even tried putting them out in the garden but that will not stop the process once it gets to a certain stage. Have any of you run into this problem before? It has happened only in the last two years and the only thing different that I am doing is adding some fines to my potting or planting mix.
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April 5, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Red, I think nitrogen availability to the plants and microorganisms in the mix is being depleted by the bark fines. Normally Iron deficiency is caused by alkaline soil conditions and pine bark fines are acidic by nature. Here's a quote on Pine bark and nitrogen. Ami
Bark is described as either fresh, aged or composted. Many growers use fresh bark but typically add 1 lb N/yd3 to compensate for the potential nitrogen draft that occurs in the pot. Composting bark involves moistening the bark, adding 1 to 2 pounds N/yd3 from either calcium nitrate or ammonium nitrate, forming a pile and then turning the pile every 2 to 4 weeks to ensure proper aeration. Composting bark typically takes 5 to 7 weeks. Aging is a cheaper process, but aged bark has less humus and a greater nitrogen draw-down in the container than composted bark.
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April 5, 2012 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Thanks Ami. I have been using it straight from the bag and most of it looks and smells really fresh. I had one bag that was very old and the fines were well rotted and the problem wasn't so severe with the mix made with that bag of fines. Next winter I need to start composting the bark in November and see if that will do the trick. Thanks again.
Oh yeah. When I added the iron supplement along with liquid fertilizer the rest of the tomato would get really dark green but that only made the faded yellow look worse. I guess I just waited too long. Thanks again for the advice. |
April 5, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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I use it fresh too. Well I did this year as I had no time to age it or find some that has been composted. But yes I too notice some N def, even with time release mixed into the mix. I'll just plan to hit it with some solable high N ferts.
Damon |
April 5, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I have noticed since I started adding bark fines to my mix that I sometimes get very strong indications of iron deficiency
Deficiencies of iron and nitrogen will manifest differently. Nitrogen is an overall yellowing of older leaves; iron is most often an inter-veinal yellowing of the newer leaves. I use a lot of bark fines - mostly fresh - and seldom see a nitrogen deficiency. Every once in a while I get a tray that shows iron deficiency, though. I know I'm not actually short on iron in the soil--pH is fine, too--so it has to be something else that's effecting uptake. |
April 5, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: oak grove mo
Posts: 406
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Now I'm confused. So If I do use bark fines in one of my mixes( I'm using 2) I'll need to use high N. quick release fertilizers instead of say tomato tone? AHHHHHH
Last edited by augiedog55; April 5, 2012 at 06:28 PM. Reason: spelling |
April 5, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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The amount of nitrogen you would need to offset any adverse effects caused by the bark would be small. I think Ami mentioned 1 lb. N per cu. yd. I think Tomato Tone would be fine. Remember that organic sources of nitrogen are not immediately available (they break down slowly over time) and they are don't really contribute until soil temps are consistently above about 55 deg.
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April 6, 2012 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 196
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I use a lot of bark fines - mostly fresh - and seldom see a nitrogen deficiency. Every once in a while I get a tray that shows iron deficiency, though. I know I'm not actually short on iron in the soil--pH is fine, too--so it has to be something else that's effecting uptake.
41N What percentage of bark fines do you use and are you using the 5-1-1 mix, the 3-2-1 mix or your own recipe? ginny |
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