General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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May 19, 2012 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Riceloft,
I don't have direct experience Neem Oil based products. the closest I have used with good success on Spider Mites has been Take Down Garden Spray, which is based on Canola Oil. This is an insecticide - not a fungicide. Raybo |
May 20, 2012 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Parma, Ohio (6a)
Posts: 299
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With all this talk about fungal issues, is that something more common because of the nature of the SWC? I can't say I've experienced much in the way of fungal issues with my "in the ground" tomatos. We had a super super wet spring last year and I lost a couple Cucumber plants to fungal issues, but no problems on the tomatos.
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May 20, 2012 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Riceloft,
As I understand it from the experts here, fungal diseases are mainly spread by spores carried on the wind. It shouldn't make a difference if the plants are in the ground - or are in SWC containers. The only observation I would make is that in SWC containers, people plant more densely than one would plant in the ground with more space between plants. This increased "density" could cause a more rapid spread of fungal issues. There should be nothing in the "chemistry" of the Potting Mix versus in-ground dirt to cause increased fungal diseases - - in fact, the nature of the soiless mix with no bugs or borrowing insects as you have in-ground, would tend to insulate SWC grown plants from a number of issues. Raybo |
May 21, 2012 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Parma, Ohio (6a)
Posts: 299
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I was more thinking that the more naturally moist conditions would more more susceptible to mold/fungus growth. I'll just keep a close on eye it.
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May 21, 2012 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Just a thought;
I would think that once a SWC is planted that it would provide a excellent environment for mold and fungus spores to grow on as it has constant moisture which it was designed to have. Initially, with the soilless potting mix there would be no fungus or mold present. But, as the spores are airborne they can propagate just as easlily on the SWC aggregate as the plant itself. If you are using a plastic mulch on top of the SWC/Tainer it would be more important to do an Actinovate drench on the aggregate prior to putting the plastic mulch over the container and planting. Why, because initially there is little shading of the mulch from the seedling and more heat is being transferred to the aggregate creating an environment more conducive to spore/fungal growth whether it be the good or bad guys. After the plant matures and forms a canopy of leaves over the container thermal gain decreases from the plastic mulch and helps retain moisture as it was designed to do. Ami
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May 26, 2012 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago zone 5a
Posts: 32
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Another Actinovate question: If applying via soil drench, which I did today, should further drenching continue at a regular rate, say every 10-14 days or is this not necessary. Tomatoes are in Earhtainer.
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May 26, 2012 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Normally I go with the initial drench/dip of the plant when it's planted and go to foliar applications during the rest of the growing cycle. If the plant shows signs of disease that could be soilborne then by all means give it a drench of Actinovate. Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
May 26, 2012 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago zone 5a
Posts: 32
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Thank you, makes sense. I am using Serenade, in addition.
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