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Old August 7, 2012   #1
habitat_gardener
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Default how many winter squash per plant?

On another thread, Carol said her burpee buttercups produced only 3 per plant.

I've already gotten 3 acorn squash from a volunteer plant. I've been wondering whether to pull it. It looks like it might be forming more flowers, but I don't see more fruit yet.

How many winter squash do you get per plant?
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Old August 8, 2012   #2
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i normally only grow waltham butternut. i get 4-5 per plant.

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Old August 9, 2012   #3
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IMO, there is no set number of squash per plant. That will vary depending upon variety, soil fertility, plant spacing, and whether you fertilize. The weather can play a part too, especially this year. So can SVB.

My Ebony acorn squash generally get 5-7 per plant; but when I grew bush acorn, it got 4-5.
Larger winter squash tend to get fewer per plant. Queensland Blue got 2-3 on poor soil with a shovel of composted manure dug into a hole adjacent to the plants. On the more fertile soil I cultivate now, they will set 3-4, sometimes 5, without fertilization.

One more factor can increase yield. Choose long-vining varieties that root from the stem, and bury each main vine in at least one point. Water the buried points to keep them moist, until roots form. If you get enough rain (or keep the soil moist by irrigation) then the vines will root at many points on their own. My Queensland & Kabocha were able to survive SVB attack this year, because I buried the vines when I saw that the moths were active. By the time the larvae were beginning to damage the main stem, the additional roots were well established
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Old August 9, 2012   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeedman View Post
...One more factor can increase yield. Choose long-vining varieties that root from the stem, and bury each main vine in at least one point....
Very interesting! I have a few squash plants I'd like to relocate that are sending vines far and wide. I'll experiment to see if some of the vines will grow new roots.
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Old August 9, 2012   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeedman View Post
One more factor can increase yield. Choose long-vining varieties that root from the stem, and bury each main vine in at least one point. Water the buried points to keep them moist, until roots form. If you get enough rain (or keep the soil moist by irrigation) then the vines will root at many points on their own. My Queensland & Kabocha were able to survive SVB attack this year, because I buried the vines when I saw that the moths were active. By the time the larvae were beginning to damage the main stem, the additional roots were well established
that's very interesting and surprising, i never heard of this or ever would have thought of it! anything to defeat the svb!

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Old August 9, 2012   #6
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Only the buttercup varieties seem to be low producers for me. I even ask a Japanese seed company rep at a convention if any of their expensive hybrid varieties were more productive and they said they generally produced 2 or 3 fruit / vine.

But on acorn and Festival and others I will often get many more fruit / plant. I can't say exactly how many you might get but it can be plenty if conditions are right.

As stated lots of things can affect production. Weather, fertility and bees will be part of the equation. As long as you have the weather for maturing a fruit, I wouldn't pull a plant just yet.

Carol
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