New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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January 3, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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worm castings and seed starting
I have started seeds for the last few years in a base
of coir and perlite, around 6 parts coir to 1 part perlite, with some kind of fertilizer. Last year I mixed in 1/2 earthworm castings into most of them, and I used a pinch of Tomato-tone in a 4" pot instead for a few of them, maybe 10%. I also bottom watered at transplant (from a seed-starting tray into the 4" pots) with a mild solution of fish emulsion, liquid kelp, and humic acid. The plants with the pinch of fertilizer grew faster before transplant into the garden than the ones with the earthworm castings. 1/2 earthworm castings in a 3-4" pot should be plenty of fertilizer for seedlings, so I wondered what the difference was. I finally concluded (ok, guessed) that the earthworm casting amended seed-starting mix had lost too much of its air space relative to the pinch of fertilizer amended seed-starting mix. Worm castings have approximately the texture of mud, with nothing in them to provide air space, once the worms are removed, and they easily flow when saturated, filling air space in the mix provided by more coarse materials. So in future, I am either going to mix a seed-starting fertilizer like Bio-tone into the seed-starting mix (following directions on the bag for proportions), mix a pint or so of worm castings into a gallon bucket of water and then water with it if I am using worm castings for seed-starting fertilizer, or use something entirely liquid like SeaCom PGR.
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January 3, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 200
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Last year, I had the best results with Miracle Grow Potting Mix with Moisture Control. The seeds started in seed starting mix were weak or dead after about a month. Costco should have 3 cu ft bags for about $10-13. Walmart has smaller bags for about $6.50 right now. The bags are smaller, but should be enough for starting my 35 or so plants.
This year, I'm going to stick with the MG and compare that with a bunny manure compost that has been picked over by worms for the past year mixed with the MG and straight compost. |
January 4, 2013 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 239
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Quote:
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January 4, 2013 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 200
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Quote:
I don't know if it matters, but I use disposable plastic cups, one with holes drilled in the bottom sitting inside another with no holes. It makes a little self watering container. Probably not the best way to do it as it stays wetter than it needs to be, but I have never had a damp-off problem. YMMV, of course. The point is that even if I were to sterilize it, it wouldn't take long to contaminate itself with whatever I was hoping to avoid by sterilizing it in the first place. |
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January 4, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 239
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I used disposable plastic cups, also. HEB had some tiny white solo cups. I drilled holes in the bottom and put them in plastic shoe boxes. I used MG seed starting mix. I had a little problem with a filamentous mold/fungus that didn't kill any of the seedlings. I resterilized in the oven prior to using the remainder and I still have the same problem in my second set of cups. I know microbes are ubiquitous but I wanted to follow best practices and still had an innoculation. Oh well. I've seen that bag of MG mix at Costco. I'm sure they'll have it again this year. I may just do a trial run with that. I think I may also check into that Bio-tone fertilizer for seeds that dice mentioned above. Thanks everyone!
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