August 20, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: montgomery, al
Posts: 91
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starting tabasco peppers
something that has plagued me for two years now has been getting my tabasco seeds to germinate with any reliability.. This year I ordered new seeds from another source thinking that maybe I'd just gotten some bad seeds, but still, similar results.
I got ~ 5-10%, and tried that across a couple of methods... used some seed starting mix, 6 seeds, zip after 40 days peat pellets (I know I know, I've had good and bad results with these things, probably done after this year), 2 of 12 after close to 60 days. coffee filter and warm location, zip all of these things were done indoors on a heating pad. So.. what am I missing here? I get decent to great germination out of just about everything else I've tried to get going, but this, this has been perplexing and a bit trying.
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gearhead... (with a small garden) 1990 volvo 740 16vturbo, hx-52. Race car. 10.82@129mph 1994 volvo 940 wagon, turbo. 14.5@?. Good at hauling dirt, excellent DD 2003 Evo VIII, ams 35r, cams, etc. 440awhp, fun DD 11.6@123mph |
August 20, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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Last year I got a 73% germination rate and planted them just like any other pepper. I try to keep them between 80F and 85F. I discovered that sometimes I'd have spikes in temperature with my setup and that would really reduce the germination percent.
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August 21, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 329
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I had zero luck with chile pequin until I switched from peat based media to DE mixed with vermiculite
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August 21, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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I always use the coffee filter method, however I use paper towels rather than coffee filters. I don't put the plastic bags directly on the heat mat because they get too hot and dry out. I don't think you need additional heat when using the coffee filter method. I just put them in a warm spot in the kitchen and they always germinate.
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August 21, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: selmer, tn
Posts: 2,944
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I feel for you as at times I have had similar experiences. Methods that have worked in the past just do not want to work now. I have had seeds sprout weeks or even months after I abandoned the attempt and the planting medium had L O N G ago dried out. The same has occured with tomatoes and eggplants. You don't suppose it is a family problem do you?
jon |
August 21, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: zone 5b northwest connecticut
Posts: 2,570
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100% germination 5-6 days in promix on top of the dvd at 82 degrees. seeds bought this spring from pinetree seeds.
tom
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August 22, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: montgomery, al
Posts: 91
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for those that have had good luck, I hate you
I'll try some different mixes and locations, gotta get out ahead of this thing.
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gearhead... (with a small garden) 1990 volvo 740 16vturbo, hx-52. Race car. 10.82@129mph 1994 volvo 940 wagon, turbo. 14.5@?. Good at hauling dirt, excellent DD 2003 Evo VIII, ams 35r, cams, etc. 440awhp, fun DD 11.6@123mph |
August 22, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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I went back and read your post really carefully looking for anything that might be your problem.
I've had low to no germination of peppers in peat. I think it's to acid for them. When you say heating pad, are you talking about the kind you by at the drug store or where ever and use on a sore back? If you are they get too hot. I solved some of my germination problems by having a good digital cooking thermometer and using it to check soil temps. I had a set up where I used Christmas lights to heat plastic shelves and the air around them. I found that I had localized hot spots that was slowing germination or cooking the seed. My experience has been that pepper seed is just not as tough as a tomato seed. They are eaier to damage in a shipping envelope. They vary more from one to the next and are slower to germinate and age quicker. |
August 22, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: montgomery, al
Posts: 91
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no, I bought a seed starting mat off Amazon last year, it doesn't get very hot, certainly not hot enough to cook anything. if anything it may not be hot enough.
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gearhead... (with a small garden) 1990 volvo 740 16vturbo, hx-52. Race car. 10.82@129mph 1994 volvo 940 wagon, turbo. 14.5@?. Good at hauling dirt, excellent DD 2003 Evo VIII, ams 35r, cams, etc. 440awhp, fun DD 11.6@123mph |
August 22, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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I've found 80F to 85F was a lot better than 75F. Another thing I found was that I had to cover the pepper cups. I use generic solo cups. If I didn't they dried out on top where the seeds are and were still wet in the bottom.
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August 22, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I usually start my hot pepper seed in December or early January in a non heated greenhouse. I now only use UltraSorb DE from Auto Zone and I get great germination even without any heat. I start the seeds in the cups of egg cartons and start giving them a weak fertilizer before they get their first true leaves. I only bottom water until the DE is wet then set them out of the water tray until they need watering again. Before I used the DE my results were often very spotty and sometimes none of the seeds came up. Most hot pepper seed are very cheap and easy to save so I will often put 2 or 3 to the cup and thin if necessary.
Bill |
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