August 19, 2013 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 67
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Here,s to hoping
Finally has a flower and both have little flower buds
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August 19, 2013 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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My Yellow Fatalli did not produce much in year 1. It was over-wintered, and has produced almost 200 fruit so far, with another 50 hanging. Same for my over-wintered Yellow Scorpions. Year 2 production far outstripped Year 1. The year 2 plants are large - Yellow Fatalli is easily 3-4 feet across.
My first year Red Congos, 7 Pods, and Scotch Bonnetts are just now producing, far behind my other peppers. I am becoming a big fan of over wintering the superhots. They seem to come into their production in year 2. Has anyone else seen that? |
August 19, 2013 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 67
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ScottinAtlanta
How big a pot did you use for your first year super hot? I am going to take the best of the two and over winter. Also did you trim it back before moving inside? |
August 19, 2013 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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Here is what I do: Before a hard frost, I carefully take up the plant, preserving as many roots as possible. I wash the entire root ball in a bucket of water until the roots are clean. I dust the roots with mycorrhizae. I then repot in new potting soil using Tania's recipe. I trim the long branches. I put them in 5 gallon pots. Very occasionally, I water with a bit of fish emulsion. They don't produce for me during the winter, and may lose some leaves. I repeat the process in reverse in spring. The reason I wash the roots is so I can control the inside soil and outside soil, which are quite different.
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August 19, 2013 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SF Bay area Z9a
Posts: 821
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Yes, I've noticed the superhots seem to over winter very well, and produce even better the second year. Baccatums also seem to do well the second year.
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Bill _______________________________________________ When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the universe. -John Muir Believe those who seek the Truth: Doubt those who find it. -André Gide |
August 20, 2013 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
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Didn't read all the posts but want to throw in my 2 cents. Mix lots of good quality compost in the soil when planting and water sparingly. Peppers seem to thrive with lower quantities of nitrogen, and deep watering only when they need it. If my pepper plants are not wilting slightly I am not watering them unless I haven't had any rain for 8-10 days. I find with hot peppers that doing less = better production. Keep it simple.
Glenn |
August 20, 2013 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 67
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Thanks Glenn
I added 3 bags of organic compost to my garden and tilled in about 8" deep. Worked in a big hand full of compost when I planted the peppers. Rain finally stopped and waited for a little wilt before watering today. I have used kelp or worm tea for most of the N all summer. I did buy a soil meter it shows an average of 5 PH around the plants (4.5 to 6.5) also showed fertilizer at the maximum reading. May add a hand full of dolomitic lime around the plants, see if that improves there performance. I have started my own compost pile for next year. Mike |
September 11, 2013 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 67
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1 plant finally has some little Habs, guess this one will be over wintered indoors
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September 11, 2013 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SF Bay area Z9a
Posts: 821
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Quote:
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Bill _______________________________________________ When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the universe. -John Muir Believe those who seek the Truth: Doubt those who find it. -André Gide |
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September 18, 2013 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 214
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I've had that issue with Habaneros before. Two years ago I had to overwinter because they produced so late. I don't think I got any ripe ones until Novemeber that year. This year, oddly enough, my habaneros were the first peppers to ripen even though they are the hottest I'm growing this year. You never know sometimes with peppers.
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September 18, 2013 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: texas
Posts: 1,451
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Living in East Texas I am thinking of starting mine in October and having in pots in winter and then moving maybe and maybe keeping the pots or planting out depending. I am going to be growing superhots for the first time this year. Habs and ghost peppers and such. I am wanting quite a few plants of each. Hubby has recently decided he loves habs in his salsa. I am thinking of using the extra mega hots for Pepper spray
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September 18, 2013 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SeTx
Posts: 881
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That's what I'm doing - starting them now, overwintering to plant out in Spring. I have a few in ground now that I'll dig up, too.
The habs are the prettiest, greenest, and healthiest by far. Tl |
September 18, 2013 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 67
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Looks like I should have ripe Habs by November if the weather holds, there about 1 1/2" long now. I will have to dig up and try overwintering at least one plant. Have already started some super hots for next season, bad news is I repotted an indoor 8" tall Naga Viper yesterday and looks like its dying now. Will have to start over on that one, was just checking germination anyway. But it sure was a nie looking plant I had started in an old indoor herb garden pot.
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