New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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April 12, 2014 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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I start a couple thousand tomatoes in different mediums, and environments, and don't get damping off problems. Just let the top of the soil dry out between waterings, then put the water to them. Wait until they dry again, then repeat until you are ready to transplant. Dry, not dampish on top, just short of wilting.
Last edited by AKmark; April 12, 2014 at 01:42 AM. |
April 12, 2014 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I may have said something about algae on top. You know if it works, you don't have a problem. Thanks for not debating I really respect that! Everybody have different experiences. To me if I have algae it usually means I'm watering too much, but that is me. Other environments you might not be able to stop it. We have very dry air here in the early winter spring, if in a higher zone than zone 6, you may have more water in the air, and controlling algae is a problem and not a sign of overwatering. Midwest zone 6 is dry, MI has just a touch more rain than Texas, not the Northeast has a lot more rain, and damp air. All gardening is local! Zone 6 in the midwest is a lot different that zone 6 in the northeast or south.
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April 13, 2014 | #33 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: 8A -Charlotte, NC
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Also, I had really good results last season with using Neptune's Harvest Fish/Seaweed blend. Last edited by topazgirl170; April 13, 2014 at 04:40 PM. |
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April 21, 2014 | #34 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: 5a SD
Posts: 253
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Quote:
Combo of these things worked great.
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Fight the good fight, finish the course and keep the faith Last edited by Sodak; April 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM. |
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April 26, 2014 | #35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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To update this thread, I am still getting damping off when using chemical fertilizer.
All I can think of is to try a different pro mix next year. Two years ago I had a Fafard mix that was mainly pine bark fines instead of peat. It's double the price of the Menard's mix, but might be worth it. I don't think I lost any plants to damping off in that mix. |
April 27, 2014 | #36 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Quote:
Something you're using is contaminated. The soil, greenhouse or your water source. The DE is good stuff and the only thing I use for tomatoes and peppers nowadays. |
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April 27, 2014 | #37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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The water is tap water, and the most recent sheet pots I used were new in the box. The bales of pro mix look like they have probably been outside in the Menards garden center over the winter.
It's getting too late in the season to do much experimenting, but I want to try DE and also a pine bark mix to see if there is a difference. I will settle for having fewer plants in more expensive media if that stops the damping off. I really hate peat mix anyway. It's impossible to get wet without floating out of the container. Then when I try to dunk a cell tray to water established plants, it floats like a boat on the ocean. |
April 27, 2014 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: rienzi, ms
Posts: 470
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evergreens have their own antifungals, cedar probably has the best anti fungal ability. the effectiveness diminishes with time after it has been cut, i don't know exactly how long and there is probably a lot of variation
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