which Jiffy seed starter greenhouse?

Hermanator · February 2, 2015

Hi! I'm a newbie at starting tomatoes from seed. This year I decided to plant a real garden instead of buying a couple of tomato plants at Home Depot and plugging them into the ground. I've been looking at Jiffy seed starting green houses and noticed they have a special greenhouse for tomatoes only as well as a 72 cell greenhouse for all plants. While I plan to do mostly tomatoes I thought while I was at it to do some squash, peppers, cucumbers and beans. Is there any real difference in these greenhouses? I've noticed that the cells for the tomato starter are larger. Would I be alright to get the 72 cell greenhouse and start all my plants in the smaller cells? Any thoughts from old hands at this would be a big help!

AlittleSalt · February 2, 2015

I bought two 72 cell trays. One had regular square shaped cells and the other is a Pro-Hex tray. The cells are hexagon shaped. It is supposed to encourage better and stronger root system. (I'm reading it off the cardboard sleeve) Minimizes transplant shock. Eliminates circular roots...

I do like the Pro-Hex better because there is enough room below each cell to write a number for each cell. That way, I don't have to label each cell. I just write what number has which variety in it in a MS Word document. I did take the standard type cell tray back and exchanged it for another Pro-Hex. There wasn't room to write numbers on the standard cell type. If you choose to use a system like this, we found that a Sharpie Silver does well for writing numbers on the black plastic trays.

Rairdog · February 2, 2015

I use the 72 cell with the plastic dome. You can get the ones with wicking mats but I hat trouble with algae and damping off. I have had mixed results with the ones that have expandable peat pellets. Sometimes the hold too much water and there times there are dry spots in the middle that gave me trouble. I would recommend a good sterile seed starting mix.

You also have to be very careful when using them for curcubits (vinning cucumber, squash and melons). They have very tender roots and like to spread which makes them susceptible to root damage when transplanting. I have had better luck with newspaper pots or peat pots that can go directly in the ground without disturbing the roots. Peat pots can also cause algae problems. Personally I think beans and cucumbers do better when directly sown when the soil temp comes up. In a warm climate like yours it should not be a problem. Northern folks sometimes benefit from starting vinning crops indoors because season can be short for the warmth needed.

greyghost · February 2, 2015

Herman,

I've used the 72 cell trays as well as similar in 6 pack units for tomatoes and
peppers (filled with a sterile seed starting mix-make sure the bag says "starting"). I usually start peppers March 1 and tomatoes about March 15
(I live in the mid Atlantic area, SE PA). Tomatoes do well at room temp. (70
to 80 degrees); peppers a little warmer, especially hot peppers-these also take longer to germinate. I usually don't plant the peppers and tomatoes in the same
72 cell unit because the peppers generally take longer to germinate but if I were
just starting a few of each in the same unit, I'd make sure the unit went under lights as soon as I got some germination. The warmth from the lights probably would help the peppers.

Squash and cucumbers are usually direct seeded after the soil has warmed.
I do, however, start mine about 2 weeks before I know it'll be safe to plant
them out, usually May 15-20 here. I start them in 4" plastic pots--they must
be removed and handled with care as they resent transplanting. I don't have
a problem doing this, but a nice alternative would be to use Cow pots that break down in the soil. Peat pots often wick moisture away from plants if any peat is above the soil line and I don't think they break down as easily.

Beans also are usually directed seeded after the soil has warmed although
they aren't as sensitive as squash and cucumbers-these really need warmth.
I sometimes start these inside, too, in 2" cell 6 packs---again, about 2 weeks
ahead of time. I seem to have less trouble with birds and insects damaging the
very young bean plants. Sometimes, when direct seeding beans, a light mulch
of dry grass clippings will keep the birds from finding them.

I make sure all of the plants get adequate light after germination and are hardened off before planting in the garden if I choose to start them inside.

If, for some reason, you aren't successful starting squash, cukes and beans,
remember that they grow quickly when direct seeded-which really is the
preferred method for growing these.

Just really wanted to make sure that you didn't plan to start the squash, cukes
or even the beans in a 72 cell unit--the cells would be way too small for these
although it's a great size for tomatoes and peppers that may be potted up once
or twice before planting out.

Hermanator · February 2, 2015

thanks everybody for the input. Big help!

rwsacto · February 2, 2015

The jiffy pellets come in 2 sizes. The smaller (72 per tray) are fine for starting tomatoes. Note you can also get half trays for 36 and little 12 space trays for these small pellets. These smaller trays are handy if you are not starting a large batch at the exact same time or for moving some germinating seeds to another location under the lights.

Hint: cut the netting down one side before expanding the pellet and remove completely at first pot up.

luigiwu · February 3, 2015

Can I suggest you watch all of craig's DENSE-SOWING videos. A picture is worth a thousand words and a movie, well, it will blow your mind! Seriously, so much to be gained from those. You'll see you really don't need "greenhouse"...

February 2, 2015	#1
Hermanator Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 6	which Jiffy seed starter greenhouse? Hi! I'm a newbie at starting tomatoes from seed. This year I decided to plant a real garden instead of buying a couple of tomato plants at Home Depot and plugging them into the ground. I've been looking at Jiffy seed starting green houses and noticed they have a special greenhouse for tomatoes only as well as a 72 cell greenhouse for all plants. While I plan to do mostly tomatoes I thought while I was at it to do some squash, peppers, cucumbers and beans. Is there any real difference in these greenhouses? I've noticed that the cells for the tomato starter are larger. Would I be alright to get the 72 cell greenhouse and start all my plants in the smaller cells? Any thoughts from old hands at this would be a big help!

February 2, 2015	#2
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	I bought two 72 cell trays. One had regular square shaped cells and the other is a Pro-Hex tray. The cells are hexagon shaped. It is supposed to encourage better and stronger root system. (I'm reading it off the cardboard sleeve) Minimizes transplant shock. Eliminates circular roots... I do like the Pro-Hex better because there is enough room below each cell to write a number for each cell. That way, I don't have to label each cell. I just write what number has which variety in it in a MS Word document. I did take the standard type cell tray back and exchanged it for another Pro-Hex. There wasn't room to write numbers on the standard cell type. If you choose to use a system like this, we found that a Sharpie Silver does well for writing numbers on the black plastic trays. Last edited by AlittleSalt; February 2, 2015 at 02:06 PM.

February 3, 2015	#7
luigiwu Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: ny Posts: 1,219	Can I suggest you watch all of craig's DENSE-SOWING videos. A picture is worth a thousand words and a movie, well, it will blow your mind! Seriously, so much to be gained from those. You'll see you really don't need "greenhouse"... __________________ Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7!

February 2, 2015	#3
Rairdog Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Noblesville, IN Posts: 112	I use the 72 cell with the plastic dome. You can get the ones with wicking mats but I hat trouble with algae and damping off. I have had mixed results with the ones that have expandable peat pellets. Sometimes the hold too much water and there times there are dry spots in the middle that gave me trouble. I would recommend a good sterile seed starting mix. You also have to be very careful when using them for curcubits (vinning cucumber, squash and melons). They have very tender roots and like to spread which makes them susceptible to root damage when transplanting. I have had better luck with newspaper pots or peat pots that can go directly in the ground without disturbing the roots. Peat pots can also cause algae problems. Personally I think beans and cucumbers do better when directly sown when the soil temp comes up. In a warm climate like yours it should not be a problem. Northern folks sometimes benefit from starting vinning crops indoors because season can be short for the warmth needed.

February 2, 2015	#4
greyghost Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: southeastern PA Posts: 760	Herman, I've used the 72 cell trays as well as similar in 6 pack units for tomatoes and peppers (filled with a sterile seed starting mix-make sure the bag says "starting"). I usually start peppers March 1 and tomatoes about March 15 (I live in the mid Atlantic area, SE PA). Tomatoes do well at room temp. (70 to 80 degrees); peppers a little warmer, especially hot peppers-these also take longer to germinate. I usually don't plant the peppers and tomatoes in the same 72 cell unit because the peppers generally take longer to germinate but if I were just starting a few of each in the same unit, I'd make sure the unit went under lights as soon as I got some germination. The warmth from the lights probably would help the peppers. Squash and cucumbers are usually direct seeded after the soil has warmed. I do, however, start mine about 2 weeks before I know it'll be safe to plant them out, usually May 15-20 here. I start them in 4" plastic pots--they must be removed and handled with care as they resent transplanting. I don't have a problem doing this, but a nice alternative would be to use Cow pots that break down in the soil. Peat pots often wick moisture away from plants if any peat is above the soil line and I don't think they break down as easily. Beans also are usually directed seeded after the soil has warmed although they aren't as sensitive as squash and cucumbers-these really need warmth. I sometimes start these inside, too, in 2" cell 6 packs---again, about 2 weeks ahead of time. I seem to have less trouble with birds and insects damaging the very young bean plants. Sometimes, when direct seeding beans, a light mulch of dry grass clippings will keep the birds from finding them. I make sure all of the plants get adequate light after germination and are hardened off before planting in the garden if I choose to start them inside. If, for some reason, you aren't successful starting squash, cukes and beans, remember that they grow quickly when direct seeded-which really is the preferred method for growing these. Just really wanted to make sure that you didn't plan to start the squash, cukes or even the beans in a 72 cell unit--the cells would be way too small for these although it's a great size for tomatoes and peppers that may be potted up once or twice before planting out.

February 2, 2015	#6
rwsacto Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Sacramento CA Posts: 288	The jiffy pellets come in 2 sizes. The smaller (72 per tray) are fine for starting tomatoes. Note you can also get half trays for 36 and little 12 space trays for these small pellets. These smaller trays are handy if you are not starting a large batch at the exact same time or for moving some germinating seeds to another location under the lights. Hint: cut the netting down one side before expanding the pellet and remove completely at first pot up.