Dwarf varieties in 5 gal SWCs, South Florida

[zipcode]

Your plants look great. No sign of disease. It's all nutrient/moisture related. In fact, I'd say they look better than expected at this stage. Once fruits starts to get bigger, nutrients are migrated from the leaves, and the evolution of the problem can appear like a tragedy.
The yellow bottom leaves is the classic magnesium deficiency. If you look in the container section you'll see everybody having a problem with it. Add epsom salts regularly and know that you won't be able to stop it completely. Some varieties are more sensitive than others. Also, you don't need all the leaves to have good production. Cutting them starting from the bottom in fact will encourage fruit set and growth at the top of the plant (to some degree).
Also, obviously micronutrients are needed. If you don't use organic, just a use a complete hydroponic formula. It has everything in the right ratio. Best production with lowest effort and second guessing.
And the leaf curl is a moisture/heat problem coupled sometimes with excess nitrogen. High heat out with high moisture in causes to my experience the worst curled bottom leaves. But sometimes there's nothing you can do, or they wilt. It's not a big problem for production. Curled new leaves is usually excess nitrogen.
Now it's time to switch to high K fertilizing. Like 2-1-4 ratio.

[kunosoura]

Originally Posted by zipcode

Your plants look great. No sign of disease. It's all nutrient/moisture related. In fact, I'd say they look better than expected at this stage. Once fruits starts to get bigger, nutrients are migrated from the leaves, and the evolution of the problem can appear like a tragedy.
The yellow bottom leaves is the classic magnesium deficiency. If you look in the container section you'll see everybody having a problem with it. Add epsom salts regularly and know that you won't be able to stop it completely. Some varieties are more sensitive than others. Also, you don't need all the leaves to have good production. Cutting them starting from the bottom in fact will encourage fruit set and growth at the top of the plant (to some degree).
Also, obviously micronutrients are needed. If you don't use organic, just a use a complete hydroponic formula. It has everything in the right ratio. Best production with lowest effort and second guessing.
And the leaf curl is a moisture/heat problem coupled sometimes with excess nitrogen. High heat out with high moisture in causes to my experience the worst curled bottom leaves. But sometimes there's nothing you can do, or they wilt. It's not a big problem for production. Curled new leaves is usually excess nitrogen.
Now it's time to switch to high K fertilizing. Like 2-1-4 ratio.

Excellent information, thank you so much. I like your suggestion about supplementing with a hydroponic formula for the micros. Takes a lot of the guesswork out. I've got some 15-15-15, CaNO3, calcium ammonium nitrate, and K2SO4. I'll use those to make a liquid in a 2-1-4 ratio, probably add some MgSO4 as well. Do you have any thoughts on ammonium vs. nitrate for nitrogen? Is one better than the other? Or would a blend be best?

[kunosoura]

Last night I introduced 1500 ladybugs to my plants. Just about all of them tried to fly off into the sunset, only to be held back by the screens enclosing the area.

As of this morning a few were milling about on a couple of the plants, while others were congregating on the outsides of the buckets. Others yet were surveying the screens looking for a way out, and finally some were content for a relaxing swim in the pool. I had to coax them out with a net so that they would get back to work.

I think the ladybugs may have been a bust. But I'll give them some more time.

[luigiwu]

Can I ask where you got your seeds from? I'm thinking about only growing dwarfs next year... great job on yours!

[zipcode]

Originally Posted by kunosoura

Do you have any thoughts on ammonium vs. nitrate for nitrogen? Is one better than the other? Or would a blend be best?

Nitrate is considered better, should be used in a ratio of 2:1 I think ideally. Ammonium based will burn roots but some studies show that some amount is better than just pure nitrate for production in soilless media.

[kunosoura]

Originally Posted by luigiwu

Can I ask where you got your seeds from? I'm thinking about only growing dwarfs next year... great job on yours!

Greetings, I got seeds from Tatiana's and from Victory seeds.

I believe I selected my varieties based on one of the summary-of-released-dwarf threads, probably authored by NCtomatoman. I think seed sources for each variety were listed.

Let me know if you need help tracking something down. I'm no expert but I'm happy to do what I can.

[kunosoura]

Originally Posted by zipcode

Nitrate is considered better, should be used in a ratio of 2:1 I think ideally. Ammonium based will burn roots but some studies show that some amount is better than just pure nitrate for production in soilless media.

Thank you. I did some looking on my own and what I read seems to agree with your 2:1 suggestion. Even a little higher appears to be OK as well. Interesting the effect on pH of the two - NH4 can lower pH at the root while NO3 can increase it. I hadn't considered that before, but it makes sense.

[jpop]

Overall they look good Kuno. I am an hour south of you and just started my seeds, including RP, TC, and others. will keep you posted. Question, are you using city tap water as main source for watering?

[kunosoura]

Originally Posted by jpop

Overall they look good Kuno. I am an hour south of you and just started my seeds, including RP, TC, and others. will keep you posted. Question, are you using city tap water as main source for watering?

Greetings. Thanks for the note, I'd love to hear how these things work our for you. Are you growing in-ground? Containers?

I am using Jupiter muni water. I test it routinely and find it usually has <50 ppm hardness, and from time to time I will check the Cl using my pool test kit and the Cl indicator signal is just about always barely perceptible (as I understand it they only use free Cl most of the year, except for the week or two at the end of summer when they run chloramine).

[ibraash]

Hello Kunosoura,

Would you please explain to me why and how to put a PVC pipe in a five gallon bucket? Any advice and information is welcome as far as this question is concerned?

Many thanks

[Cole_Robbie]

It's the tube that connects to the bottom chamber, which is liquid. You water through it. As for the 'how'...an appropriately-sized hole saw and drill does the trick.

[kunosoura]

Originally Posted by ibraash

Hello Kunosoura,

Would you please explain to me why and how to put a PVC pipe in a five gallon bucket? Any advice and information is welcome as far as this question is concerned?

Many thanks

The PVC is to pipe water from the top, where I add it from a garden hose, down to the reservoir from which the plant draws water. I have some photos of my builds, and I am happy to post them if you feel they could be helpful. It'll be a day or two before I am able. If you need immediate answers, try googling the Global Bucket. I wish I could say I came up with the design myself, but I merely borrowed the idea from someone else!

[ibraash]

I thought so. Thank you all for the prompt responses. Have a great night.

[jpop]

Originally Posted by kunosoura

Greetings. Thanks for the note, I'd love to hear how these things work our for you. Are you growing in-ground? Containers?

I am using Jupiter muni water. I test it routinely and find it usually has <50 ppm hardness, and from time to time I will check the Cl using my pool test kit and the Cl indicator signal is just about always barely perceptible (as I understand it they only use free Cl most of the year, except for the week or two at the end of summer when they run chloramine).

I am likely doing a raised bed, which will be the first for me, as I have done containers with good success, but always wanted to try a raised bed. Hope I do not regret it.

FYI, most if not all muni's in south florida have been on monochloramine treatment, which is why you are getting next to nothing on the free chlorine level. My suggestion is to build your own in line filtration system which can be done around $100.00 (using 10"x2.5" housings and filters) and last close to a year before filter changes. Ideally a kdf-55 (removal of free and suspended chlorine), kdf-85 (removal of most chloramines), and a cation filter (removal of any remaining ammonia from the chloramines). Then you can try live mychorrhizal to protect your roots and plants from disease, which I had better success with when container growing. However, the city water will kill the organisms and then you are stuck w/ granulated and other feeding.