I've come to the conclusion...

Jetstar · July 9, 2016

Yes I've come to the conclusion that container gardening requires application of balanced fertilizer more often than in ground growing. Trying to grow tomatoe, peppers or winter squash without application of fertilizer will lead to frustration of small yields and small fruits, learned that lesson last year! Today I applied a water soluble mix of 15 30 15 for the 2nd time in my 6 week old container garden, after 4 weeks the initial amendments that I added before planting (10-10-10, lime and Epsom salt in addition to Jobes tomato spikes) I added the 15 30 15 fertilizer. I give each grow bag a top feed of 1/2 gallon of mix, so far no signs of over application are showing up. If this feeding shedule works out I'll continue to fertilize every 2 weeks. I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this with positive results, and if those who have done additional application of fertilizer during the growing stage have any advice or opinions? Here's the latest pics of my plants

greenthumbomaha · July 10, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetstar

Yes I've come to the conclusion that container gardening requires application of balanced fertilizer more often than in ground growing. Trying to grow tomatoe, peppers or winter squash without application of fertilizer will lead to frustration of small yields and small fruits, learned that lesson last year! Today I applied a water soluble mix of 15 30 15 for the 2nd time in my 6 week old container garden, after 4 weeks the initial amendments that I added before planting (10-10-10, lime and Epsom salt in addition to Jobes tomato spikes) I added the 15 30 15 fertilizer. I give each grow bag a top feed of 1/2 gallon of mix, so far no signs of over application are showing up. If this feeding shedule works out I'll continue to fertilize every 2 weeks. I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this with positive results, and if those who have done additional application of fertilizer during the growing stage have any advice or opinions? Here's the latest pics of my plants

For inground I'm overly stingy with fertilizer. I add Tomato Tome or similar granular and a hunk of Black Cow compost and hang back till mid-late summer. Containers start out the same way with if the mix is free of fertilizers. Contaimers get a once a month feeding of organic blue stuff. I did buy ttf and didn't see miracle results in the containers.

What was your initial mix?

Jetstar · July 10, 2016

greenthumbomaha, The original was 1 cup of garden lime 2TBS of Epsom salt mixed into the potting mix and around the top outside edge of the grow bag was 1-1/2 cups of 10 10 10 that was covered by an inch or so of potting soil.

Ed of Somis · July 15, 2016

Growing both in-ground and in containers...I sure have noticed a big difference in fert requirements. Although I fert my containers weekly...I try to give weak solutions and limit the nitrogen. High nitro rings the dinner bell for my aphids.

jmsieglaff · July 15, 2016

I very much agree with your assessment about container plants needing feeding much more often. I feed my container plants every 10-14 days (alternating what I use). I fertilize the in-ground tomatoes probably 3, maybe 4 times the entire growing season, but my garden soil is fairly nutrient rich, while the container mix (ProMix) is not. Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well.

I have upped my feeding of summer lettuce (grown in-ground) since I water it daily and it is still early, but seemingly has made a big difference for the better in my summer lettuce.

Ricky Shaw · July 15, 2016

Every day mixed with water at 1000ppm and pH adjusted in 15gal fabric pots.

garyjr · July 15, 2016

"Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well".

I would agree completely. I had a friend that has an organic herb and veggie farm and they tested liquid organic versus granular organic and there was a noticeable difference. Those that used the granular were healthier (larger), and a darker shade greener. (tested on pepper plants) He is convinced that although they may get a quick boost from the liquid, in the end the granular releases a small amount of ferts each time the plant is watered. Since we water containers more often it would reason they need more ferts over the long haul.

Cole_Robbie · July 15, 2016

Osmocote is good stuff. I have good results with it as my only fertilizer, mixed into the media at transplanting. My container plants tend to be peppers and micro-dwarf tomatoes, so maybe their demands are not as high as trying to grow a huge tomato plant.

Ricky Shaw · July 15, 2016

I've come to the conclusion.... There's three ways to look at container growing. One is you're taking a slice of your garden with the same general upkeep, and putting it in a pot. The second is a quasi hydroponic program of soilless media and metered fertigation in a container matched to the plant and conditions. The third, is everything in between.

And generally, the closer you get to the second method, the healthier and more productive your plants will be.

SharonRossy · July 15, 2016

I grow in containers and a raised bed. For me pro mix with a slow release fertilizer, lime and Epsom salts mixed in according to Raybo's earthtainer measurements. As well, a weak solution of a water soluble fertilzer with micronutrients is applied a few weeks after planting. I do also add the granular slow release at least twice after just because I water so frequently. But this year I have been careful not to over fertilze and my plants are extremely healthy. The raised bed with the pro mix has worked better than the smart pots. I don't have to water as often. But no doubt container growing requires different techniques than in ground. My in ground tomatoes require less. Aunt Gerties Gold is one that doesn't do well in containers no matter how large or how fertilized.

fonseca · July 15, 2016

Once my plants are in their final containers, they have all the fertilizer they are going to get. It doesn't wash out, it's all slow release organic meals that rely on the microbial population to become available to plants.

Primarily:
Crab shell meal
Kelp meal
Alfalfa meal
Supplemented with:
Neem seed meal
Fish meal
Fishbone meal

Not all of my containers make it through a full season without showing nutrient deficiencies, but the larger ones do. I do top dress with spent coffee and tea grounds, I guess that counts. it really encourages worm activity.

Nematode · July 15, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Shaw

Every day mixed with water at 1000ppm and pH adjusted in 15gal fabric pots.

Yup like that!
Most container growers have no idea how close to a true hydroponic setup they are.
Come on in the waters fine.

Cole_Robbie · July 15, 2016

If hydro means growing without soil, most of us already are hydro growers, since there is no soil in pro mix.

fonseca · July 15, 2016

I consider my sub-irrigated containers to be a form of passive hydro, but that is debatable as there are no dissolved nutrients in the reservoir, just water.

Ed of Somis · July 16, 2016

I have learned to be careful on using terms correctly when it comes to the container medium used. "Soil" is a term that denotes a medium that is taken from the ground. Thus, "potting soil" is generally created by a novice gardener to save money...instead of buying commercial mixes or ingredients for making your own mix. Funny though...I have actually seen a commercial business sell potting soil. It is commonly misunderstood. Simply stated...it is always a mistake to scoop up soil from your backyard and stick it in a pot to grow something. There are many reasons for this being a mistake. I always advise folks to think about creating a free draining mix for their containers. You can find very technical info about this on another gardening website. As an acquaintance once said..."you can grow in a pot of marbles if you water and feed enough".

July 15, 2016	#7
garyjr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Mechanicsville, VA zone 7a Posts: 97	"Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well". I would agree completely. I had a friend that has an organic herb and veggie farm and they tested liquid organic versus granular organic and there was a noticeable difference. Those that used the granular were healthier (larger), and a darker shade greener. (tested on pepper plants) He is convinced that although they may get a quick boost from the liquid, in the end the granular releases a small amount of ferts each time the plant is watered. Since we water containers more often it would reason they need more ferts over the long haul. __________________ "The task of the modern educator is not to cut down jungles but to irrigate deserts." C.S. Lewis

July 10, 2016	#3
Jetstar Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: N.E. Wisconsin Posts: 308	greenthumbomaha, The original was 1 cup of garden lime 2TBS of Epsom salt mixed into the potting mix and around the top outside edge of the grow bag was 1-1/2 cups of 10 10 10 that was covered by an inch or so of potting soil.

July 15, 2016	#4
Ed of Somis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Somis, Ca Posts: 649	Growing both in-ground and in containers...I sure have noticed a big difference in fert requirements. Although I fert my containers weekly...I try to give weak solutions and limit the nitrogen. High nitro rings the dinner bell for my aphids.

July 15, 2016	#5
jmsieglaff Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Southern WI Posts: 2,742	I very much agree with your assessment about container plants needing feeding much more often. I feed my container plants every 10-14 days (alternating what I use). I fertilize the in-ground tomatoes probably 3, maybe 4 times the entire growing season, but my garden soil is fairly nutrient rich, while the container mix (ProMix) is not. Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well. I have upped my feeding of summer lettuce (grown in-ground) since I water it daily and it is still early, but seemingly has made a big difference for the better in my summer lettuce.

July 15, 2016	#8
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Osmocote is good stuff. I have good results with it as my only fertilizer, mixed into the media at transplanting. My container plants tend to be peppers and micro-dwarf tomatoes, so maybe their demands are not as high as trying to grow a huge tomato plant.

July 15, 2016	#9
Ricky Shaw Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro Posts: 1,910	I've come to the conclusion.... There's three ways to look at container growing. One is you're taking a slice of your garden with the same general upkeep, and putting it in a pot. The second is a quasi hydroponic program of soilless media and metered fertigation in a container matched to the plant and conditions. The third, is everything in between. And generally, the closer you get to the second method, the healthier and more productive your plants will be.

July 15, 2016	#10
SharonRossy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Montreal Posts: 1,140	I grow in containers and a raised bed. For me pro mix with a slow release fertilizer, lime and Epsom salts mixed in according to Raybo's earthtainer measurements. As well, a weak solution of a water soluble fertilzer with micronutrients is applied a few weeks after planting. I do also add the granular slow release at least twice after just because I water so frequently. But this year I have been careful not to over fertilze and my plants are extremely healthy. The raised bed with the pro mix has worked better than the smart pots. I don't have to water as often. But no doubt container growing requires different techniques than in ground. My in ground tomatoes require less. Aunt Gerties Gold is one that doesn't do well in containers no matter how large or how fertilized.

July 15, 2016	#11
fonseca Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 205	Once my plants are in their final containers, they have all the fertilizer they are going to get. It doesn't wash out, it's all slow release organic meals that rely on the microbial population to become available to plants. Primarily: Crab shell meal Kelp meal Alfalfa meal Supplemented with: Neem seed meal Fish meal Fishbone meal Not all of my containers make it through a full season without showing nutrient deficiencies, but the larger ones do. I do top dress with spent coffee and tea grounds, I guess that counts. it really encourages worm activity.

July 16, 2016	#15
Ed of Somis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Somis, Ca Posts: 649	I have learned to be careful on using terms correctly when it comes to the container medium used. "Soil" is a term that denotes a medium that is taken from the ground. Thus, "potting soil" is generally created by a novice gardener to save money...instead of buying commercial mixes or ingredients for making your own mix. Funny though...I have actually seen a commercial business sell potting soil. It is commonly misunderstood. Simply stated...it is always a mistake to scoop up soil from your backyard and stick it in a pot to grow something. There are many reasons for this being a mistake. I always advise folks to think about creating a free draining mix for their containers. You can find very technical info about this on another gardening website. As an acquaintance once said..."you can grow in a pot of marbles if you water and feed enough".