My Garden is Kaput

EarlyBird · July 24, 2018

I had overcrowded my small community garden plot with six plants, but boy were they thriving! From late March to early June, my plants were the envy of the garden.

Lots of tomatoes, folks. Lots. Nearly 80 lbs harvested so far, and that's after throwing away many pounds of sun-scorched toms.

But the plants have just gradually wilted since late Spring, one branch at a time. At first I thought it was early aphid infestation and too much neem oil. But I haven't sprayed neem for a long while, and the aphids are gone, but branches continue to wilt and die.

No spots, fuzz, mildew, holes or damage to the leaves. Just endless wilting to the point that the plants are skeletal with very little canopy left. The exceptions are my two non-heirlooms, a Celebrity and a mystery cherry, but still pretty ugly.

Now even the mostly bare branches and stalks are looking a bit yellowed and withered.

Is it a virus in the soil? Reason I ask is to know:

- Should I plant tomatoes again next year, or should I give the soil a year off?

- It it safe to do the "no-till" method, of cutting the dead plants off at the base and allowing the roots to decompose in the soil? Or will that just keep the virus going?

- Finally, does it sound like a virus, or something else?

Thank you!

At least with the harvest so far I've gotten my fill of tomatoes!

tnkrer · July 24, 2018

Don't have an answer to your query .. but 80 lb from 6 plants is awesome! I am happy if I reach 10lb per plant.

EarlyBird · July 24, 2018

Thanks. It's a strictly organic garden, and some of my garden mates were suspicious that I'd been juicing. Not so! Just really good soil.

agee12 · July 24, 2018

Were the tomatoes determinate or indeterminate?

EarlyBird · July 24, 2018

All indeterminate, but for the Celebrity.

zipcode · July 25, 2018

If it's wilting it's not a virus. It must be a wilt disease. Fusarium is most common, but could be also verticilium or one of the bacterial wilts. Compare symptoms and see what fits best.
I think overall that spot is doomed for tomatoes for years to come if that's the case. Either use resistant varieties, grafted, use a systemic fungicide against fusarium, pray for a very cold winter, etc.

EarlyBird · July 25, 2018

Thanks. My hardest issue is identifying the specific source of the disease. All symptoms seem to be fusarium wilt, but I don't think the wilting started on one side of branches, which is a hallmark of that specific disease.

Father'sDaughter · July 25, 2018

Is the issue just showing up in your plot? How are the tomato plants looking in the other people's plots?

EarlyBird · July 25, 2018

They're just fine immediately next to me on both sides.

Father'sDaughter · July 25, 2018

Then it might just be that your plants are done for the season. Eighty pound plus sun scorched discards is quite a bit from six plants!

EarlyBird · July 25, 2018

Gee, I hope that's the case. They produced amazingly, but the wilt started early and is just relentless.

b54red · July 25, 2018

Without seeing them I would guess it is fusarium wilt. It doesn't have to show just on one side when it starts. It can start with just slight wilting followed by yellowing and dying of leaves and a branch or two but if it is not severe then sometimes the plants can linger for a long time with reduced production. The only true way to deal with it is to use resistant varieties or graft non resistant varieties onto a root stock that is resistant. I gardened with it for decades until it got so bad that I had to start grafting in order to have the varieties that I liked survive long enough to be productive.

Bill

EarlyBird · July 25, 2018

Quote:

Originally Posted by b54red

Without seeing them I would guess it is fusarium wilt. It doesn't have to show just on one side when it starts. It can start with just slight wilting followed by yellowing and dying of leaves and a branch or two but if it is not severe then sometimes the plants can linger for a long time with reduced production. The only true way to deal with it is to use resistant varieties or graft non resistant varieties onto a root stock that is resistant. I gardened with it for decades until it got so bad that I had to start grafting in order to have the varieties that I liked survive long enough to be productive.

Bill

Thanks, Bill. That it doesn't have to only start on one side, makes me think then that it is fusarium wilt as you and Zipcode believe. Otherwise, it has happened exactly like you describe, but earlier than what I've read. Due to us having a very warm early Summer that could add to the trouble.

Sheesh. Being a hobby gardener sure gives me respect for people who actually farm to put food on the table.

SueCT · July 26, 2018

Why don't you take a few pcitures before you pull them and post them here? It won't save them but might help you deal with it next year. A coulple of pics of the entire plant and a coupld up close of leaves and stems effected?

EarlyBird · July 26, 2018

Quote:

Originally Posted by SueCT

Why don't you take a few pcitures before you pull them and post them here? It won't save them but might help you deal with it next year. A coulple of pics of the entire plant and a coupld up close of leaves and stems effected?

Good idea. I'll do that and see if I can upload the pictures. I am not terribly savvy that way.

July 24, 2018	#1
EarlyBird Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 65	My Garden is Kaput I had overcrowded my small community garden plot with six plants, but boy were they thriving! From late March to early June, my plants were the envy of the garden. Lots of tomatoes, folks. Lots. Nearly 80 lbs harvested so far, and that's after throwing away many pounds of sun-scorched toms. But the plants have just gradually wilted since late Spring, one branch at a time. At first I thought it was early aphid infestation and too much neem oil. But I haven't sprayed neem for a long while, and the aphids are gone, but branches continue to wilt and die. No spots, fuzz, mildew, holes or damage to the leaves. Just endless wilting to the point that the plants are skeletal with very little canopy left. The exceptions are my two non-heirlooms, a Celebrity and a mystery cherry, but still pretty ugly. Now even the mostly bare branches and stalks are looking a bit yellowed and withered. Is it a virus in the soil? Reason I ask is to know: - Should I plant tomatoes again next year, or should I give the soil a year off? - It it safe to do the "no-till" method, of cutting the dead plants off at the base and allowing the roots to decompose in the soil? Or will that just keep the virus going? - Finally, does it sound like a virus, or something else? Thank you! At least with the harvest so far I've gotten my fill of tomatoes! Last edited by EarlyBird; July 24, 2018 at 05:19 PM.

July 24, 2018	#2
tnkrer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: MA 6a/b Posts: 352	Don't have an answer to your query .. but 80 lb from 6 plants is awesome! I am happy if I reach 10lb per plant.

July 24, 2018	#4
agee12 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 196	Were the tomatoes determinate or indeterminate?

July 25, 2018	#6
zipcode Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6 Posts: 1,582	If it's wilting it's not a virus. It must be a wilt disease. Fusarium is most common, but could be also verticilium or one of the bacterial wilts. Compare symptoms and see what fits best. I think overall that spot is doomed for tomatoes for years to come if that's the case. Either use resistant varieties, grafted, use a systemic fungicide against fusarium, pray for a very cold winter, etc.

July 25, 2018	#8
Father'sDaughter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: MA/NH Border Posts: 4,919	Is the issue just showing up in your plot? How are the tomato plants looking in the other people's plots?

July 25, 2018	#12
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Without seeing them I would guess it is fusarium wilt. It doesn't have to show just on one side when it starts. It can start with just slight wilting followed by yellowing and dying of leaves and a branch or two but if it is not severe then sometimes the plants can linger for a long time with reduced production. The only true way to deal with it is to use resistant varieties or graft non resistant varieties onto a root stock that is resistant. I gardened with it for decades until it got so bad that I had to start grafting in order to have the varieties that I liked survive long enough to be productive. Bill

July 26, 2018	#14
SueCT Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,460	Why don't you take a few pcitures before you pull them and post them here? It won't save them but might help you deal with it next year. A coulple of pics of the entire plant and a coupld up close of leaves and stems effected?