Pruning and Repotting... - Page 14

murihikukid · February 9, 2017

Patti..Rootmate is trichaderma but in granule form ...Same as Plantmate which is a powder ....I have another pricelist and a link for you...Yes I like the way this company talks to a person...I find their website difficult to see because of the colours ...due to being colour blind...
http://environmentalfertilisers.co.n...al-inoculants/
is the link to their innoculants.....
Regards Ron

murihikukid · February 9, 2017

Patti...No problem...I am bursting with excitement ....Now our problems maybe over with this companies products... Cheers Ron

murihikukid · February 9, 2017

Patti...I am trying to get an email copy to you re the Myco....I wonder if I could zip an eml and post it? and would you be able to open it...Cheers Ron

murihikukid · February 9, 2017

Patti ..I have saved the email as a EML file and zipped it ..Hopefully you can open it ..I have just returned from buying the Fertilizer ...both brands....I wonder which one I would use on my $22 TT's tonight ....I presume the one with the highest K...I now have to bike over to the Habitat shop to get another shelf?? for my young ones??
Cheers Ron

MissS · February 9, 2017

Yes, Ron I could open it. Those were both the products that I had been looking at. I like them. Let's see how they do. It is by far the best option that you have found there.

I would start to feed with the Wuxal or the Seasol, but not both yet. We will be moving slowly until we learn how all of these new things work on the plants.

It is late and I have to work in the morning so I will be brief. I would dispose of all of the plants in your hospital. I do think that they have Early Blight. While it is not the worst disease to have, why bother with it and have it infect your other plants? You need to dispose of some of these plants anyway, so these plants make the decision a no-brainer.

Cheers ~ Patti

murihikukid · February 10, 2017

Patti...In my opinion I am now entering a crucial phase and I have to know what I am doing...IE I need a plan....

I have my baby plants
I have my intermediate plants
I have my Older plants
and
I have my Super TT plants plus a Black Cherry ,a Campari and a Moneymaker..

today after I have some Sleep I will water my Super Plants with Wuxal...

Now what has happened is that early next week I will have Myco on hand and that is a whole new ball game for me....My initial plans are to innoculate my 25 baby plants when I transplant them.....
My intermediate plants i Plan to also innoculate them too but they are already in their buckets so I require some directions for that....
That leaves me with my older plants?? in the main they are my early seeds and plants that were purchased from the Gardening centre.......
I would like to inoculate some of my early seeds ...in particular your plants ...so I am going to email the Myco company and change my order to 500g....You see I do not know if it even has an expiry date ? Its a teaspoon or 5 g a plant???
Anyway I must have a plan set in my mind ....And I presume Myco is a single application ....so what comes after that?? normal fertiliser.....

So many things to get my head around and in it somewhere is Sulphate POtash ...Do not know why but I want to try an application of it also...but am I in danger of killing the plants??
regards Ron

MissS · February 10, 2017

You might not need to use as much of the Mycos as they say. I would just roll your seedlings to be transplanted into the material and then pot them up as usual. You want the product to be in contact with the roots. For the larger plants I usually put the product into a watering can fill it with unchlorinated water, mix it well and water the plants. You could also mix it into the top of the soil and water it in. This is usually a one time treatment and plant care goes on as usual. You must be careful not to soak the soil with fungicides so that you do not kill the fungus that you have added.

As I said before, the only plants that I would use the Potash on right now are those that are bearing fruit. I would not use it on your younger plants yet as there is enough potash in the fertilizer that you are using. While young they will be taking up more phosphorous that potash. They will not need that much potash until fruit set has occurred.

I hope that this helps ~ Patti

murihikukid · February 10, 2017

Patti....Thanks...Yes it certainly helps ..So the younger plants require a fertiliser that Phosphorous is more dominant .....Now Fruit Set.....While I was looking for Myco I came across a fruit set.....Cannot remember what website it was.??? Cheers Ron

AKmark · February 10, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by murihikukid

Patti....Thanks...Yes it certainly helps ..So the younger plants require a fertiliser that Phosphorous is more dominant .....Now Fruit Set.....While I was looking for Myco I came across a fruit set.....Cannot remember what website it was.??? Cheers Ron

Ron, take a look at this, there are some simple charts that may help.

http://www.haifa-group.com/files/Gui...ato/Tomato.pdf

MissS · February 11, 2017

Thank you for posting that AKMark! You are the person that should be helping him on growing these in his greenhouse. You know far more here than I do and I have never grown a tomato in a greenhouse before. I am only telling Ron about what I have learned from reading others posts as well as yours on this subject. Of course I am incorporating some of what I do in my own gardens.

Ron, no, you do not need to buy anything to help with fruit set. That is a waste of your time and money. It does not work.

AKmark · February 11, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissS

Thank you for posting that AKMark! You are the person that should be helping him on growing these in his greenhouse. You know far more here than I do and I have never grown a tomato in a greenhouse before. I am only telling Ron about what I have learned from reading others posts as well as yours on this subject. Of course I am incorporating some of what I do in my own gardens.

Ron, no, you do not need to buy anything to help with fruit set. That is a waste of your time and money. It does not work.

You are doing just fine, I just thought the charts may help him by looking at visual guides. There is some good explanation in that link too.
Everyone of us has plenty to learn, so much info floating around.
Take care,
Mark

murihikukid · February 11, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKmark

Ron, take a look at this, there are some simple charts that may help.

http://www.haifa-group.com/files/Gui...ato/Tomato.pdf

Thanks ...I see photos related to deficiencies that I have seen on some of my Tomatoes...I am really going to have to read this every day and try and take it all in...Regards Ron

murihikukid · February 11, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by MissS

I usually put the product into a watering can fill it with unchlorinated water, mix it well and water the plants. You could also mix it into the top of the soil and water it in. This is usually a one time treatment and plant care goes on as usual. You must be careful not to soak the soil with fungicides so that you do not kill the fungus that you have added.

I hope that this helps ~ Patti

Patti..This raises another point...Water....The tap water here is Chlorinated and Flourinated (for teeth).....I presume Some plastic barrels I just bought should be put at strategic positions to catch the rain water from the novalite roof ( maybe I could work out a system to catch the water and divert it into some drums.)..I would suspect that plants would like clean,fresh water ....but it will not be slightly warm like the tap water that I have been giving my plants ..

Re fungicides ....When I spray each plant should I have a cover to put round my stem and on top of the drum/container to stop any run off into the soil ....I certainly do not want to kill the Mycos...
I have had no reply to my email so I have a suspician that the Myco order has already been sent...I could slightly reduce the amount per plant after all a tea spoon per plant based on past discussions seems a lot???

I just watered my drums with Wuxal....Basicly 2 litres a drum...Tomorrow I will give my plastic container plants that have flowers and starting to bear fruit a slight pinch of Sulpher Potash and then water it in...

Regards Ron

MissS · February 11, 2017

Ron you don't have to go to the trouble of catching your water. You can fill a drum or garbage can with your tap water. The chlorine will evaporate in 24 hours. If you still want to warm it up you can add 1/4 hot water to your bucket without harming your mycos with the chlorine.

Your plants and mycos should be fine as long as you use a fine spray and do not saturate the soil. A small amount on the top will not do much harm to anything.

Cheers ~ Patti

While this company did not say how many spores are in each teaspoon, I should think that you can certainly use a smaller amount. After all they will multiply and grow and in theory you only need one site on the roots to be inoculated.

murihikukid · February 11, 2017

Patti..Thats good to know ..I just finished spraying my suspect plants with milk and watered in a teaspoon of Potash???to any that were in full flower or had fruit....My Sweet Scarlet have nearly all got PM (powdery Mildew) so that is Sweet Scarlet/ Aunty Ginny'[s Purple/Sweet 100 and others and I am starting to look at what soil they and others are in....I can tell by the Perlite that most with problems have been planted in old soil ...Which raises real questions...I know now that any old soil is put in drums for reinvigurating in the future but did i do that months ago??? I just do not know...Any suspect branches are snapped off and done away with...So I just hope I can contain it..

I am now going to spray all of the rest of my plants with Natures Way and will do the Super TT's also...after a cup of tea....

Re AKmarks link...Thank goodness I have two computers as I can use one as a dictionary to try and find out the meaning of some of the words which mostly leads to even more difficult words..plus whoever wrote it out missed spaces etc so I find it difficult to read .....but I am learning some serious information ....I wish the photos were better as some I recognise as what I have seen on my plants...and its nutrient based..
I will keep reading it and try and understand most of it...but there are parts that are impossible for me ....

Regards Ron

February 9, 2017	#200
MissS Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 3,150	Yes, Ron I could open it. Those were both the products that I had been looking at. I like them. Let's see how they do. It is by far the best option that you have found there. I would start to feed with the Wuxal or the Seasol, but not both yet. We will be moving slowly until we learn how all of these new things work on the plants. It is late and I have to work in the morning so I will be brief. I would dispose of all of the plants in your hospital. I do think that they have Early Blight. While it is not the worst disease to have, why bother with it and have it infect your other plants? You need to dispose of some of these plants anyway, so these plants make the decision a no-brainer. Cheers ~ Patti __________________ ~ Patti ~

February 10, 2017	#202
MissS Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 3,150	You might not need to use as much of the Mycos as they say. I would just roll your seedlings to be transplanted into the material and then pot them up as usual. You want the product to be in contact with the roots. For the larger plants I usually put the product into a watering can fill it with unchlorinated water, mix it well and water the plants. You could also mix it into the top of the soil and water it in. This is usually a one time treatment and plant care goes on as usual. You must be careful not to soak the soil with fungicides so that you do not kill the fungus that you have added. As I said before, the only plants that I would use the Potash on right now are those that are bearing fruit. I would not use it on your younger plants yet as there is enough potash in the fertilizer that you are using. While young they will be taking up more phosphorous that potash. They will not need that much potash until fruit set has occurred. I hope that this helps ~ Patti __________________ ~ Patti ~

February 11, 2017	#205
MissS Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 3,150	Thank you for posting that AKMark! You are the person that should be helping him on growing these in his greenhouse. You know far more here than I do and I have never grown a tomato in a greenhouse before. I am only telling Ron about what I have learned from reading others posts as well as yours on this subject. Of course I am incorporating some of what I do in my own gardens. Ron, no, you do not need to buy anything to help with fruit set. That is a waste of your time and money. It does not work. __________________ ~ Patti ~

February 11, 2017	#209
MissS Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 3,150	Ron you don't have to go to the trouble of catching your water. You can fill a drum or garbage can with your tap water. The chlorine will evaporate in 24 hours. If you still want to warm it up you can add 1/4 hot water to your bucket without harming your mycos with the chlorine. Your plants and mycos should be fine as long as you use a fine spray and do not saturate the soil. A small amount on the top will not do much harm to anything. Cheers ~ Patti While this company did not say how many spores are in each teaspoon, I should think that you can certainly use a smaller amount. After all they will multiply and grow and in theory you only need one site on the roots to be inoculated. __________________ ~ Patti ~

February 9, 2017	#197
murihikukid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Invercargill New Zealand Posts: 1,022	Patti...No problem...I am bursting with excitement ....Now our problems maybe over with this companies products... Cheers Ron

February 9, 2017	#198
murihikukid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Invercargill New Zealand Posts: 1,022	Patti...I am trying to get an email copy to you re the Myco....I wonder if I could zip an eml and post it? and would you be able to open it...Cheers Ron

February 10, 2017	#201
murihikukid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Invercargill New Zealand Posts: 1,022	Patti...In my opinion I am now entering a crucial phase and I have to know what I am doing...IE I need a plan.... I have my baby plants I have my intermediate plants I have my Older plants and I have my Super TT plants plus a Black Cherry ,a Campari and a Moneymaker.. today after I have some Sleep I will water my Super Plants with Wuxal... Now what has happened is that early next week I will have Myco on hand and that is a whole new ball game for me....My initial plans are to innoculate my 25 baby plants when I transplant them..... My intermediate plants i Plan to also innoculate them too but they are already in their buckets so I require some directions for that.... That leaves me with my older plants?? in the main they are my early seeds and plants that were purchased from the Gardening centre....... I would like to inoculate some of my early seeds ...in particular your plants ...so I am going to email the Myco company and change my order to 500g....You see I do not know if it even has an expiry date ? Its a teaspoon or 5 g a plant??? Anyway I must have a plan set in my mind ....And I presume Myco is a single application ....so what comes after that?? normal fertiliser..... So many things to get my head around and in it somewhere is Sulphate POtash ...Do not know why but I want to try an application of it also...but am I in danger of killing the plants?? regards Ron

February 10, 2017	#203
murihikukid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Invercargill New Zealand Posts: 1,022	Patti....Thanks...Yes it certainly helps ..So the younger plants require a fertiliser that Phosphorous is more dominant .....Now Fruit Set.....While I was looking for Myco I came across a fruit set.....Cannot remember what website it was.??? Cheers Ron

February 11, 2017	#210
murihikukid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Invercargill New Zealand Posts: 1,022	Patti..Thats good to know ..I just finished spraying my suspect plants with milk and watered in a teaspoon of Potash???to any that were in full flower or had fruit....My Sweet Scarlet have nearly all got PM (powdery Mildew) so that is Sweet Scarlet/ Aunty Ginny'[s Purple/Sweet 100 and others and I am starting to look at what soil they and others are in....I can tell by the Perlite that most with problems have been planted in old soil ...Which raises real questions...I know now that any old soil is put in drums for reinvigurating in the future but did i do that months ago??? I just do not know...Any suspect branches are snapped off and done away with...So I just hope I can contain it.. I am now going to spray all of the rest of my plants with Natures Way and will do the Super TT's also...after a cup of tea.... Re AKmarks link...Thank goodness I have two computers as I can use one as a dictionary to try and find out the meaning of some of the words which mostly leads to even more difficult words..plus whoever wrote it out missed spaces etc so I find it difficult to read .....but I am learning some serious information ....I wish the photos were better as some I recognise as what I have seen on my plants...and its nutrient based.. I will keep reading it and try and understand most of it...but there are parts that are impossible for me .... Regards Ron