New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
May 15, 2012 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Hahira, GA
Posts: 40
|
Hello everyone...I have used the 2" soil blocks with great success...making them is easy and I get great germination rates using soil blocks and a grow mat. I cover my seeds with either a dark colored garbage bag or an aluminum foil pan with a clear plastic cover(roasting pan) and watch for first signs of germination. If using garbage bag I uncover them when I see first signs of seedlings...if using roasting pan with clear plastic cover I remove cover as necessary to move seedlings by hand or by a small fan. This method gives me high germination rates. I also purchased the English 2" soil blockers...I have micro 20 and 4" but have found that I use the 2" for the most part. I choose to leave my seedlings in the 2" soil blocks until the first two sets of true leaves form...about 3-4" seedling...I then transplant to solo plastic cups. I use the commercial seedling mix made by the company that has miracle fertilizer.
|
October 16, 2012 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: eastview, tn
Posts: 28
|
don't know if anyone stops by here but i am having a problem transplanting from the micro 20 where i start the seeds into the 2" blocks where i keep them until plantout. the problem is my great looks seedlings are dying after transplant. i used them quite successfully in the spring but in starting cool weather crops to plant out into my hoophouse my results are miserable. i mix my own blocking mix based on elliot coleman's recipe, bottom water, growlight propagation area; what am i missing?
|
October 16, 2012 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
|
Quote:
Shawn
__________________
"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers |
|
April 25, 2013 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SW Iowa
Posts: 7
|
Just Discovered Soil Blocks
I just discovered soil blocks a couple of weeks ago. I was discussing them with a friend, and he told me that he's been using them for a couple of years. He told me that he spreads seeds onto a capillary mat, and then puts them in the soil block after the seed has sprouted. He said that he doesn't even bother with the 3/4" size, because he knows the seed is viable when he puts it into the 2" pot.
|
May 22, 2013 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
|
I have just started with Soil blocks and while I'm delighted with the overall use, I do have one problem.
I can't remember the name of the poster who gave his mixture for soil, but he did add a number of fertilizers to the block making compost. I get good germination, but then the plants become stretched, long and lanky. I believe it's the use of fertilizer in the seed starter mix. One site I visited stated 'no fertilizer' so I'm wondering if this might be my problem? Comments, please. |
May 22, 2013 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
|
Beeman,
What size blocks are you using? |
May 22, 2013 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
|
|
May 22, 2013 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
|
I love the blocks but they are definitely a bit fiddley.
Check out Jason Beams mixes. Here are his recipes, which he also sells. http://www.pottingblocks.com/blocking-mix-recipes/ I have used his micro mix and his Old farm boy mix and liked both. I use the micro 20, 2 in and the 4 in. blocks. Now using his micro mix only for the 3/4 in blocks. Changed up my methods though. Pre germinate seed and make the 3/4 blocks at the same time and give the blocks a good spray with 3% hydrogen peroxide. (Helps with damping off) Sprouted seed go in the 3/4 in blocks when they are popping. For the 2 in and 4 in blocks I use straight Promix BX. Then I can completely control the ferts. Straight Promix has to be very wet to get good compression though. So even just using the 2 in blocks I would advocate pre germination and into the 2 in with a straight soilless mix, no ferts added. I did cukes that way this year, straight into the 2 in and it worked fine. |
May 22, 2013 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SW Iowa
Posts: 7
|
Long, lanky growth
>... I get good germination, but then the plants become stretched, long and lanky. ...
What are you using for lighting for your plants? Long, lanky growth is often a characteristic of the plants not receiving enough light, or the color of light is not ideal. |
May 22, 2013 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
|
In my greenhouse?
|
June 11, 2013 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: peru, Iowa zone 5a
Posts: 167
|
Dumb question: what is a capillary mat?
|
June 11, 2013 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
|
|
June 11, 2013 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: peru, Iowa zone 5a
Posts: 167
|
Thanks. I may have to look into those.
I have a mini blocker which I use for seeds that take a higher germination temp. I made its companion 2" blocker and also made an 1&1/2" blocker which I use for lettuce., etc. I made these out of plastic boards , fake wood, found at Menards, or Home Depot. |
June 14, 2013 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 62
|
I use Jiffy Pellet Pod from Home Depot or Lowes.
72 pods for $8.00. |
June 15, 2013 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: peru, Iowa zone 5a
Posts: 167
|
brand...style
Could you recommend a brand or type of mats to use. I usually put my soil blocks in baking tins, from wally mart, that come with the dome clear lid...top. ?
|
|
|