New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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February 8, 2011 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
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into rooting. If you have a container mix with a lot of earthworm castings in it (like 1/3 to 1/2), those lack any air space once they get wet (physical structure of wet mud), so compressing the mix from top watering is more of an issue for the seedlings than in a mostly peat or mostly coir seed-starting mix. Peat takes awhile to re-wet once it dries out completely. I use a $7 moisture meter to test to get an idea of how dry they are and how long it takes them to get how dry after they have been watered. Sometimes they look moist and feel moist on the top, yet the moisture meter tells me that they need watering. If the seedlings are not wilting, they are not too dry yet, no matter what the moisture meter says. But if it reads down in the dry range, they are very close to wilting, and one hot day can do damage. Your high humidity inside your plastic cover probably provides some protection against that.
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-- alias Last edited by dice; February 8, 2011 at 01:27 AM. Reason: humidty |
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February 8, 2011 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cut-N-Shoot, TX
Posts: 73
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Thanx Bobbie in Cut-N-Shoot |
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February 9, 2011 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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I've found that sprinkling some clean sand or bird grit (ground up granite from the pet supply store) on top of the soil will make the mold go away. I got this tip from a horticultural guy some time ago and it works. Fungi unlike algae finds a rocky surface inhospitable to growth. |
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February 9, 2011 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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I've had luck with spritzing the surface with diluted hydrogen peroxide; never tried actually pouring it on.
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February 9, 2011 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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Spray with a little H2O2 as suggested or take a pinch of baking soda (not baking powder and add it to some water. and spay that on.
When you use jiffy pods they can tend to get water logged easily. when you soak them the first time pour off excess water and before planting in them give them a slight squeeze. Peat pods are convenient and I use them but they sometimes are a pain to keep just right water wise, you do not want them too wet and you do not want them too dry either.
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February 9, 2011 | #21 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
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Last edited by RayR; February 9, 2011 at 02:03 AM. |
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February 9, 2011 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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For fungus surface is fine but 3% H2O2 will not kill your seedlings, That is simply not true. It breaks down quickly into water and oxygen. The oxygen is actually good for the roots. It also can flush the soil of excess salts etc...
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February 9, 2011 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
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What can I say Stephen, I'm a chicken when it comes to introducing chemical compounds to soil or plants. I'm aware that 3% H2O2 is reasonably safe as a anti fungal and antibacterial, but higher concentrations can be damaging if not deadly. As far as any other claims to its benefits as a drench, is there any scientific proof that it makes any difference one way or the other? Stuff that sounds good in theory doesn't alway pan out in practice. Maybe I'll experiment myself.
I just look at soil surface fungus as an environmental issue, for some reason(s), the conditions are right for fungus to grow and be happy. So the best solution is to make the conditions for the fungus unhappy. Sterile seed starting mix, more light, less surface moisture/humidity, better air circulation, sand or bird grit on the surface of the soil. Fungus hates all those things, it works for me, no damping off disease, no mold, totally inert remedies, no chance of screwing anything up. |
February 9, 2011 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I do not use 3% hydrogen peroxide ("drug store peroxide") full
strength. I use 1 part of that to 10 parts water, so it is 1/11 of that strength, or .27%, regardless of whether I am watering seedlings with it that have not been potted up yet or spraying it on foliage or on the top of seed-starting mix. Here is a web site with strength of solution recommendations for using hydrogen peroxide on plants: http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.c...-peroxide.html It breaks down quickly into water and oxygen. You could hardly find a less toxic fungicide. I do not value the "adds oxygen in the soil" aspect of it that much, because it will kill beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae, too, which I dust spores of onto the roots when potting up into 4" pots (or equivalent). That aspect of hydrogen peroxide's action in the soil, adding oxygen, is probably more useful to root-bound houseplants in potting mix that decayed to silt years ago than it is to new tomato seedlings in seed-starting mix.
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February 9, 2011 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cut-N-Shoot, TX
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Well, after reading the replies, I believe I will leave them under the lights all day today, and see what has developed (or un-developed) when I get home tonight.
I will also learn from this experience - and squeeze some of the excess water out of the Jiffy pellets next time. Thanks for your input. Bobbie |
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