Actinovate and mycorrhizae

[dokutaaguriin]

Criester,
How many plants were you able to dip in your solution?

Jeff

[BigdaddyJ]

Criester, why the molasses?

[creister]

Jeff,

I dipped twelve with one gallon and wasn't going to plant anymore that day. I believe I had about 72 ounces of liquid left, and I divided that among the planted plants and gave them each a drink of it in equal amounts. By the way, Maya and Sion's is rockn and rolln this spring. All ready has about 10 greenines for sure. Really good tomato for around here, sets easily, productive, and very good taste. Can't thank you enough.

Bigdaddy,

I added the molasses as it is good food source for many micro organisms. I figured it might help accelerate the symbiosis of the plant roots and organisms in the drench. Also, plants seem to like it as well.

[creister]

I estimate I could dip around 24 to 30 plants if I used up a gallon worth of dip. I would also think the amount would vary based on the size and type of pot your transplants are in (plastic, peat, or cowpot), how moist the soil medium your transplant is growing in as well. I think I made sure mine were damp, may gave them a small amount of water, 4 oz. or so the day or two before.

[amideutch]

John, If using a drip system injectors are use to add nutrients to the plants during watering. In hydro injectors can be used to add different products to the nutrient solution whether it be for PH control or add more nutrients to the solution as the plants deplete them during growth.

Bigdaddy, creisters procedure is the same as mine. The addition of molasses is a good idea. Ami

[BigdaddyJ]

Great. Thanx to both of you. I'll be a dippin any day now. Hoping for a great season...

[dice]

For inhibition of mycorrhizae growth by phosphorus in the soil
or growing medium, I would expect that one would need the
quantity of phosphorus specified in parts per million (ppm, the
way you see it in soil tests). 1, 3, 10, 17, 30, etc, the way P
is listed as a percentage in fertilizer, does not really tell you
what the final ppm in the soil is going to be after fertilizing
with it. It depends on how much fertilizer you mix into how
much soil or container mix, what the pH is, what else is already
there that may combine with that phosphorus at that pH level,
and so on.

What it comes down to is "do not overdo the P when using
mycorrhizae". A soil drench with full strength 15-30-15 Miracle
Grow or 10-52-10 blossom booster when transplanting is
probably not a good idea. At 1/4 tsp per gallon, it may not
interfere with the symbiosis at all. Two handfuls of bonemeal
or rock phosphate in a planting hole is in theory a lot of P for
a tomato plant, but it breaks down so slowly that any
mycorrhizae are going to be well established in the rhizosphere
by the time enough of that P is available to the roots to inhibit
the fungi.

[John3]

Originally Posted by amideutch

John, If using a drip system injectors are use to add nutrients to the plants during watering. In hydro injectors can be used to add different products to the nutrient solution whether it be for PH control or add more nutrients to the solution as the plants deplete them during growth.

Thanks Ami for answering that.

[John3]

Originally Posted by amideutch

That is one of the reasons. Depending on the amount of "P" in the soil it can keep the symbiotic relationship from happening. They have found the use of mycorrhiza/bacteria in hydroponic systems has increased plant vigor and production. By controlling the "P" of the nutrient solution and allowing symbiosis to occur the nutrient intake of the plants increases even though the ferts used in the nutrient solution are inorganic/ionic.

More and more were finding that Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi are not the only players in the rhizosphere where plant roots are growing. You have PGPR (Plant-Growth-Promoting-Rhizobacteria) that act as biofertilizers and biopesticdes. You are seeing them added to Myco products such as MycoGrow Soluable or as stand alone products like Biota Max. They have also found that these Myco/bacteria teams work together whether it be providing nutrients for the plant or fighting the bad guys that reside in the soil one example being Tricoderma and Mycorrhiza.

My reason for my seedling plant dip was to get all these players together and inoculate the plants in one application so they can be doing there thing from the git-go as a biofertilizer or a biopesticide.

A new product on the market that Raybo mentioned is "Great White Mycorrhiza" which is a good example of an all-in-one product that has Mycorrhiza,PGPR and Tricoderma plus vitamins. Feedback on this product has been very favorable. Right now it's running around $30.00 for 4oz. Here's a discription of the product.



Ami

Ami I have a limeaquat that I need to transplant into a 5 gal pot - the nursery guy said to use miricale grow potting mix (the reg kind). Would this kill the effects of Actinovate, MyGrow and Biota Max?

[amideutch]

The NPK of MGPM according to the Scott site is, Fertilizer Analysis

0.21 - 0.07 - 0.14. Shouldn't be a problem. Ami

[John3]

Thanks Ami for the help.

[desertlzbn]

does anyone know the cheapest place to buy it? I have looked at ebay and amazon, but maybe someone knows somewhere that is dirt cheap!

[VitaVeggieMan]

Originally Posted by dice

What it comes down to is "do not overdo the P when using
mycorrhizae". A soil drench with full strength 15-30-15 Miracle
Grow or 10-52-10 blossom booster when transplanting is
probably not a good idea. At 1/4 tsp per gallon, it may not
interfere with the symbiosis at all. Two handfuls of bonemeal
or rock phosphate in a planting hole is in theory a lot of P for
a tomato plant, but it breaks down so slowly that any
mycorrhizae are going to be well established in the rhizosphere
by the time enough of that P is available to the roots to inhibit
the fungi.

So, I planted my peppers this year with a 1/2 cup of triple super phosphate mixed into each 5-gallon bucket. Would it be unwise for me to apply a soil drench of mycorrhizae and actinovate two weeks later?

[dice]

Actinovate is probably not effected by high phosphorus levels
the same way that mycorrhizae can be.

At worst adding the mycorrhizae would be a waste (not
contribute anything to the plant's nutrient uptake).

[fortyonenorth]

Originally Posted by VitaVeggieMan

So, I planted my peppers this year with a 1/2 cup of triple super phosphate mixed into each 5-gallon bucket. Would it be unwise for me to apply a soil drench of mycorrhizae and actinovate two weeks later?

Worst case, the mycorrhizae simply won't be effective. I don't think there's any detriment to trying it anyway. That said, 1/2 cup of TSP per container seems like a lot. The application rate is 2 lbs. per cubic yard for container production. I'm no expert, but you may want to double check your rates.