Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
February 25, 2012 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Ami, OK two asparin (separate from the Actinovate) per gallon.
I actually applied the BiotaMax and MycoGrow Soluable along with Great White when I did the soil drench of Actinovate about a month back. That was the day I noticed all the fungal problems. Thanks, Naysen |
February 26, 2012 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
|
[QUOTEI actually applied the BiotaMax and MycoGrow Soluable along with Great White when I did the soil drench of Actinovate about a month back. That was the day I noticed all the fungal problems.][/QUOTE]
Naysen, how old were the plants when you when you did the soil drench and was this done in con★★★★★★★★ with the plant out or were they already established? Evidently the fungus was already established when you did the soil drench, correct? Ami
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
February 26, 2012 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Ami, the plants were well established and 2 or 3 months old when I applied the soil drench I described. In the process of pulling my InnTainers down from their racks, I noticed the drying, sometimes damp, necrotic maladies moving up the plants. I somehow hadn't noticed the problem before that time. It was as if I was staring at it for weeks (probably not so long though), and I hadn't realized.
I've attached a few more picks of the problem. I've read folks describing it above as "purple" this and that, but I must say it looks more pink or light magenta in the veins, not out right purple. And the leaf color in general isn't purple but light green. They're all very dry and crispy to the touch, then some other leaves are very droopy and wilted weak. -naysen |
February 27, 2012 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 288
|
Hi Naysen,
A few observations from my experience last year: I apparently infected all my baby toms with TSWV by having other plants in the same area that attracted the thrips. Also I did not screen them when outside. The symptoms did not show for several months. Once infected, no cure and few if any fruit. I found a reference from Oklahoma (I think) that helped me diagnose the problem. Basically, I started over with store bought plants in July. I suggest you retrace your steps during germination and grow out to identify possible vectors. Also, thrips are attracted to blue sticky paper, not so much the yellow. You did not indicate which flavor you are using. I am keeping this years "class" under insect screen. Good Luck, Rick |
February 27, 2012 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Hi Rick. I'm using the standard yellow sticky traps. Did you happen to take any pictures of your plants that were infected. I'd love to compare them to my own. These plants are finally fruiting quite well, but it's only been a week now that I've noticed this new condition as described and depicted. I'll find gardening far less interesting if I have to shield the plants 100% of the time from the great outdoors. If these thrips are so deadly and apparently prevalent in our area, how can one safely foster an outdoor tomato garden in defense of them, short of all-side mosquito netting. What were the plants you had that attracted the thrips? I'm sorry for all the questions but I really need to be certain what I'm dealing with here.
Thanks, Naysen |
February 27, 2012 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 288
|
Naysen,
I do not know if I have photos-I am not as organized as you. Some leaves and stems would turn bronze and leaves would eventually fall off. New growth would randomly die off after a week or so. There was some twisting as the plant grew very slowly. I finally stripped the garden in June and started over. I believe mine were infected during propagation. I had rooting impatiens in the same space with the baby toms. The attached document sez that is a no no (see page 6). I also had vegetable starts in the same space. My plan is to isolate the tomatoes and try to keep the critters out for the first 6 weeks. After that, the plants are on their own. I have had good tomato gardens for the past 6 years that I have been in this location. Last year was the first time I started with indoor (garage, coldframe and small greenhouse) propagation (flowers, vegies and tomatoes) and the first time I got wiped out. Good Luck, Rick |
February 27, 2012 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
|
One thing I read, is that different cultivars have different degrees of resistance or susceptibility. So a field tomato crop would not be wiped out unless you have a single cultivar growing and it is susceptible - stay diverse is one way to avoid a catastrophe. And use the reflective mulch, since it has good results in the field, if TSWV is the problem. Wish you luck!
|
February 27, 2012 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Rick, thanks for passing along the pdf. I'm not certain that I'm dealing with TSWV based on the description and my conditions. In any event, I gather much care is needed in isolating and protecting the seeds and young seedlings initially. Bower, yes I have several varieties of dwarf growing together, and they all seem to be suffering from various issues. These Rosella Purple plants are the only that show pinkish veins on their leaves (backside). I sprayed with a dilute aspirin/water combination yesterday. I'm hopeful that I can manage some kind of harvest before the plants go down.
Thanks, Naysen |
February 28, 2012 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
|
The color sounds like mites, but I do not know why they would only
affect that one kind of plant. http://greenmethods.com/site/pests/spider-mites/
__________________
-- alias |
February 28, 2012 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Hi Dice, I suppose that's a possibility, as I know I have mites (of some kind) in my worm bin. I can see those mights, however; just barely. So, I'm surprised I haven't noticed them on the leaves of the affected plants. I think Serenade was a good organic solution if I recall. Maybe I'll pick some up and give a try.
Thanks, Naysen |
February 28, 2012 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
|
Naysen,
Serenade is a Fungicide - and will not be effective at all on Mites. Instead, pick up some of this at your local Nursery or Hydro Shop: Having said that, my experience is that once you have seen them - - it may be too late... Raybo |
February 28, 2012 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
|
Pictures of mite-infested plants that I have seen usually show a lot
more obvious infestation than what I see above. I was simply wondering if the other stuff you sprayed was inhibiting them (they do not like moisture). Then again, could that magenta tinge be a product of your light? (Is it really some other color when viewed in daylight outside?) While those plants are closest to the flourescents, the reddish led light on the other side is basically shining on everything in there as well.
__________________
-- alias |
February 28, 2012 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
|
The description of some stems/leafs wilting and some dry and crispy also sounds like mites. In the last close ups posted I notice a lack of fine hairs on the stems, which as I recall was one of the ways I ID's my Tomato Russet Mite infestation last summer. Ray used Take Down, which I couldnt find in time. I used sulpher powder and I ate lots of tomatoes! LInda
|
February 28, 2012 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
|
Ray, thanks for correcting me there. Yes, it's the Take Down spray I meant to reference.
Dice, I see a pink/light-magenta ting under sunlight. It's also apparent under fluorescent light, and in all cases, only from the backside of the leaves near the veins. The mites that I know are lurking around (at least I assume they are since they were in my worm-castings) seem to stay near the soil the one time I've seen them. They are big enough to make out with the naked eye, and they are dark/red-ish, so they would be easy (or easier) to see on the foliage. I've not seen any on the leaves in all my time yet. Perhaps, they hatch smaller versions of themselves that are not visible. In any case, I guess I'd better try an insecticide to be certain. I'm still not sure why it's only these four plants that are exhibiting this particular malady. Linda, I'll keep an eye out for loss of hirsute qualities, though I seem to recall seeing a reasonable amount of fuzz on most stems. I'll compare the fried branches to their slightly healthier siblings. Thanks, Naysen |
February 28, 2012 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pleasure Island, NC 8a
Posts: 1,162
|
Probably not the same thing but I get little red mites on my Myers Lemon tree in the spring - I use rubbing alcohol and a sprayer & a qtip to mist the leaves & blossoms, then Q-tip to remove clumps of the little so-in-sos. Your operation may be too big to attempt such an OCD activity but rubbing alcohol doesn't bother the tiny new or established leaves or blossoms or fruit... on this citrus tree.
|
|
|