Curly top virus?

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by chancethegardener

Crandrew, thanks for the link. Ginger, thanks for the information. I applied some OMRI listed Safer brand spray on them today (it has Pyrethrin in it). With "migration", I meant if they leave the garden after they feed the first time and don't come back within the same season.

Also, what are the ratios for the mix you use?

I never used permethrins but I hear that they work well. i would just follow the mix directions for tomatoes or vegetables if they don't list specifically for tomatoes, that is what I always do with all my types of spraying. They usually are slow to migrate out of your garden, because they have a ready food source right there.
The Doc. at the USDA said they don't fly very far, but can be carried by the wind. She recommended looking around to see what is infested near you.
By the way, Pyrethrin is different than Permethrin, not the same effective substance.
I wouldn't expect the bugs to migrate out.
Hope that helps.
Marsha

[b54red]

I usually get more than one infestation of thrips during a growing season. The worst infestation is usually the first one but a few weeks or so later in will drift another one to get a few more of my plants. I have had them as late as September well after I thought I was through with worrying about TSWV. Spraying every few days with Permethrin or Pyrethrins during the time that thrips are showing up in your garden will limit the damage but not stop it.

[chancethegardener]

I started a separate thread about an insecticide called AzaMax to make it easier for people to find information about this product. Personally, I have never used it and I wonder if it works as effectively as a lot of people think. I have used pyrethrin on my pepper seedlings (not on young seedlings but on the ones which are almost ready to go in the ground), and some leaves burned. Also, it leaves a smell that doesn't go away for weeks. Did anybody have serious problems with regards to pyrethrin?

[Tracydr]

Originally Posted by desertlzbn

Be careful with the sulfur it will burn you plants if it gets too hot out

Thanks. The roses are in partial shade. I dusted instead of spraying. Hoping they only need one treatment and then just regular showers of water. I'll keep checking them closely. Think they were stressed from being potted too long.

[John3]

chancethegardener here are some things to read that might help:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7429.html

No pesticide provides complete control of thrips. In comparison with other insects, most thrips are difficult to control effectively with insecticides. Reasons include thrips’ tiny size, great mobility, hidden feeding behavior, and protected egg and pupal stages. Improper timing of application, failure to treat the proper plant parts, and inadequate spray coverage are also common mistakes and can be more important in influencing the effectiveness of treatment than choosing which pesticide to apply. Before using a pesticide, learn more about your specific plant situation and the biology of your pest species. Often you will learn chemical control cannot be effective until the next season when new plant growth develops. If insecticides are used, they will only be partially effective and must be combined with appropriate cultural practices and conservation of natural enemies. Greenhouse thrips is an exception; because it is sluggish and feeds in groups on exposed plant parts, thoroughly applying most any insecticide will kill this species.

Narrow-range oil (Sunspray, Volck), azadirachtin (Safer BioNeem), neem oil (Green Light Garden Safe), pyrethrins combined with piperonyl butoxide (Garden Safe Brand Multi-purpose Garden Insect Killer, Spectracide Garden Insect Killer), and (at least for greenhouse thrips) insecticidal soaps (Safer), can be somewhat effective for temporary reduction of thrips populations if applied when thrips are present and damage first appears. These materials have the benefit of allowing at least a portion of the natural enemy populations to survive because they do not leave toxic residues. Sprays must be applied to thoroughly cover susceptible plant tissue, such as new leaf growth and buds. On plants with a history of severe, unacceptable damage, begin treatment early when thrips or their damage is first observed. Repeat applications (usually 5 to 10 days apart, depending on temperature) are usually required because these insecticides only kill newly hatched thrips and recently emerged adults.
...
With most thrips species, eggs are protected within plant tissue and prepupae and pupae are in the soil and will not be killed. No pesticide treatment will restore the appearance of injured tissue; plants will remain damaged until leaves drop, injury is pruned off, or new unblemished fruit is produced.

http://www.plasmaneem.com/neemoil-thrips-control.html

Control Thrips with the help of Neem oil Spray:

House pests are usually difficult to control as they breed at one place and infest at another place. Thrips, one such house pests are very serious kind when it comes to loss of plant life. This insect is identified with the external appearance of a thin body with a pair of hind wings and dark in color. Thrips is miniature in size, and so they are difficult to identify over the plant. They are commonly found insect groups in the backyard garden as well as near the indoor plants. The characteristic attack of these insects is to suck the sap content of the plant gradually using a special needle mouth. They also feed over the flowers as well as the leaves of the plants.

On disturbing the group of thrips that is feeding the plant, they go vanish in a second by flying away swiftly with the help of short hind wings. After that they again reach the plant and to the same infested part to continue the attack. Hence, the thrip insects are hectic to identify and control when compared other house plant pests. Even though they are identified it not easy to eradicate them from the plant they are sticking onto. Unless proper effective spraying is done over the plant, the thrips cannot be controlled.

May be at the initial stage of their life cycle, they might be regarded insecure in their attacking ability. However, then on the later course of their life cycle, they evolve as a destroyer of plant at a large scale with a large population. It has been observed that they multiply rapidly over the soil surface and consequently, ensuring the need for soil care near thrips prone attack gardens. In indoor, thrips gets attracted towards the Sapling and start damaging right from the first day of the infestation. Some of the symptoms and signs exhibited by the plant after thrips attack will be the sliver-streak on the surface of leaves and dark spots on the flowers.

Organic spray of Neem oil extract can be used for thrips at the garden, and if there is a necessity to apply for indoor plants then Neem oil has to be sprayed under certain standard conditions. Spraying of pesticides is a conventional procedure used for efficient control of thrips because only by spraying it is believed that the population of thrips is reduced relevantly. Note: Neem oil does not kill thrips but has the capacity to keep them away from feeding which in turn leads to death of the species.

http://www.discoverneem.com/neem-oil-insecticide.html
How neem oil messes with the insects' brains and bodies
How neem oil deters chewing and sucking insects
Neem oil works from inside the plant
Neem oil suffocates insects
Neem oil and beneficial insects
Neem is non toxic for beneficial insects.

The main reason is that insects need to ingest the neem oil to be affected, and beneficial insects don't eat your plants. But you can still kill beneficial insects if you smother them with neem oil, so please be careful.

Beneficial insects are most active during the day. The best time to spray neem insecticide is very early in the morning, so the spray can dry before the good insects become active. Also a good time is the late afternoon or evening. Once the spray has dried it does not harm your bees, ladybugs, lacewings, predatory mites and wasps etc.

http://www.cambrianursery.com/thrips.htm

Thrips

Thrips are very small (less than 1/16", 1.5mm) slender insects from the Thysanoptera family. Thysanoptera means, "bristle wings " or "fringe wings". Adults are usually dark brown or tan in color and have two pairs of featherlike wings. Immature insects are called "Nymphs" and are usually lighter in color than the adults. Thrips are very serious pests in Cambria California and throughout the country. They are mainly seen to attack roses and blooming plants. Both the nymphs and the adults feed by scraping the plant tissue and then sucking out the plant sap. Flowers, fruit and foliage become streaked and distorted. Female Thrips lay fertilized or unfertilized eggs in plant tissue. Most unfertilized eggs develop into males. The life cycle of Thrips is only 2 to 3 weeks, so populations can suddenly explode. In heavy infestations of Thrips, both the flowers and the leaves become discolored and fail to open normally, looking as if they are twisted and stuck together. Leaves may take on a silvery or light brown cast when infested with Thrips.

Suggested solution

We have found a number of ways to control thrip in Cambria California. Neem oil can be sprayed onto the plants. Alternatively, Orthenex garden insect and disease control® spray can be used on ornamentals. It is advisable to spray 2 or 3 times at intervals of 7 to 10 days in order to control Thrips as they hatch.

How to prevent Thrips

We have found the best way to prevent Thrips is to check your plants often and spray as we have described above.

[greenthumbomaha]

Is this virus concentrated in the southern states? I have something that resembles this on the first group of plants I started, Tumbling Tom. Each plant from that sowing has it, but it was a small planting and the plants are now filling a one gallon container but the upper leaves look stunted. Is it possible to have this in Nebraska (we had a very mild winter).

[lapk78]

Question: What would be any other symptoms of an infestation? Only streaking??

I've looked for streaking, but I don't see any. However, my foliage is looking suspect... (TSWV?)

I started a thread called "Spots on my tomato leaves?? (pics)" yesterday and would like somebody's opinion as to what might be causing the spots, if someone would be so kind...

-Lyle

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by chancethegardener

I started a separate thread about an insecticide called AzaMax to make it easier for people to find information about this product. Personally, I have never used it and I wonder if it works as effectively as a lot of people think. I have used pyrethrin on my pepper seedlings (not on young seedlings but on the ones which are almost ready to go in the ground), and some leaves burned. Also, it leaves a smell that doesn't go away for weeks. Did anybody have serious problems with regards to pyrethrin?

You can usually avoid leaves burning if you stick with an early morning or very late afternoon spraying, when the sun is less intense. It isn't the chemical so much as the combination of hot sun on these oil based products whihch is what fries the leaves.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by greenthumbomaha

Is this virus concentrated in the southern states? I have something that resembles this on the first group of plants I started, Tumbling Tom. Each plant from that sowing has it, but it was a small planting and the plants are now filling a one gallon container but the upper leaves look stunted. Is it possible to have this in Nebraska (we had a very mild winter).

Not an expert by any means, but plants that are grown in the south may be shipped to a home Depot for instance, or elsewhere. with a mild winter I surely think they may be able to live.

[b54red]

I don't know if TSWV is mainly a southern problem but it is a major problem for tomato growers down here. Most of the commercial growers around here have gone to varieties like Amelia because of their resistance to TSWV. I gave about twenty tomato plants to my postman last year and he was so proud of them but when they got a little over 3 feet tall every single one of them got TSWV within a week and a few weeks later all of them were dead. On a good year I will lose about 20% of my plants each year to TSWV but some years it is much worse. I try to plant a couple of Bella Rosas each year because they are supposed to be resistant and they taste better than the other resistant varieties I have tried. I have noticed that the thrips seem to prefer the tomatoes with the lighter colored foliage and they tend to get TSWV more frequently.

[greenthumbomaha]

From my post above, I raised the plants from seed so they didn't travel from a southern state. However , I don't know if this is transported in pottting soil which could originate anywhere . The only symptoms are small/stunted leaves.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by greenthumbomaha

From my post above, I raised the plants from seed so they didn't travel from a southern state. However , I don't know if this is transported in pottting soil which could originate anywhere . The only symptoms are small/stunted leaves.

What I tried to convey was that the whiteflies could have arrived in the area via transport as "hitchhikers" in some fashion. In that way they could be brought to a neighboring area and then fly or be carried by the wind to your plants. Thats why South Florida has so many types of whiteflies, it is a major hub for both ocean going and airplane arrivals for international trade and travel.

[dice]

In Omaha, your plants could have other diseases instead, like
Cucumber Mosaic Virus or Curly Top (usually found farther west,
carried by beet leafhoppers):

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/IPM/engl....html#advanced

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.corne...omLeafKey.html

[chancethegardener]

John, once again I went back and looked at the valuable information you posted and am terrified. TSWV became very frustrating for me because I have lost the most productive plants to it and damage has passed to other plants. I treated the whole garden with AzaMax to prevent future damage on other tomatoes. I will see how effective this will be. I have posted couple of pictures to show how the virus shows up on stems and fruits.

In addition, I have a question: I don't remember if it was mentioned before or not but does TSWV pass onto plants by only touching? I mean after I touch a plant with the virus if I touch another plant, do I pass it? In other words, am I a host?

[John3]

Originally Posted by chancethegardener

John, once again I went back and looked at the valuable information you posted and am terrified. TSWV became very frustrating for me because I have lost the most productive plants to it and damage has passed to other plants. I treated the whole garden with AzaMax to prevent future damage on other tomatoes. I will see how effective this will be. I have posted couple of pictures to show how the virus shows up on stems and fruits.

In addition, I have a question: I don't remember if it was mentioned before or not but does TSWV pass onto plants by only touching? I mean after I touch a plant with the virus if I touch another plant, do I pass it? In other words, am I a host?

I don't know for sure here's a quote:

TSWV is only spread by WFT, Tomato Thrips, Onion thrips in South Australia. Not plague thrips or any other insects. It is no spread by pruning and does not live in the soil.

From this article here-
http://www.sardi.sa.gov.au/pestsdise...inter_friendly

It shouldn't take to long to read the article. the quote is about 1/3 way down just above the pepper image