October 5, 2012 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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Benny - I too was wondering about Texwine. You say Mariseed was mentioned as a source. Where? Did I miss something?
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October 6, 2012 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 10
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Sorry about the Mariseed statement, that was in a Private message, not posted here...So you didn't miss anything.
Benny |
October 27, 2012 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 327
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Hey Benny, right near you.
Anyway, I have tried, and tried a lot. The experienced here, Feldon comes to mind, advised it aint gonna happen down here, tomatoes in our heat. I have tried a lot, I grow for market and cant afford too many misses. After mid July tomatoes are done, I'm sorry, but they are done. When varieties say heat tollerant and heat setting gene, they aint talking this heat. I have also been beat up with fall tomatoes, just doesnt work here. My advise would be to find a variety you like, start em at Thanksgiving, stick em in the ground late february, and rock and roll till July 4. Thats the window here. Holler at me if you like, love discussing this stuff! |
October 29, 2012 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 346
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Quote:
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Ken |
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November 28, 2012 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 327
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woops, repeated myself. My bad.
Last edited by Keger; November 28, 2012 at 09:17 PM. Reason: error |
December 1, 2012 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Here in AZ, best bet is to grow shorter season varieties. Get them in and out fast.
That said, anybody have good recommendations on big producers that are in and out fast? I like to can and dehydrate my tomatoes. My biggest problems are really, really low humidity,to the point of affecting pollination. Also, spider mites, also caused by low humidity and early heat. |
December 8, 2012 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tucson, Arizona (catalina)
Posts: 413
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A few years ago I got a variety from Carol Knapp here on the forum called susie f3.. it has been my main crop ever since.. It lasts all summer and performs very well. I've been saving seed from them every year and they are very uniform and stable .. giant bush type that are about 5ft tall and 5ft wide here in Tucson. I think this is some of the reason that it does so well with the large canopy that shades the ground around the plant. I irrigate for about half an hour every day at 10 o'clock after the temps go over 100deg . set up on a timer and by august it starts setting for a fall crop... they are more like 6 to 8 oz here and we love the taste.
The second best one I've found is Celebrity .. I plant in March and get a great crop by the time the heat hits and this year I tried planting them the 1st of July and am still eating the last ones from the garden now.
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December 10, 2012 | #23 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Quote:
OP- have you tried Cherokee purple or Indian Stripe. They work well for me. For cherries, Sungold and Matt's Wild Cherry are my best. Last edited by Tracydr; December 10, 2012 at 12:14 AM. |
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December 15, 2012 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 64
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I will second the 4th of July Hybrid. Produced through hot weather of SC and all the way till the first frost at the end of Nov.
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December 16, 2012 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 190
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As for anything from that Brandywine cross that is mentioned, I just don't think the genes are there for heat tolerance. Brandywine is one of the worst I have grown for flower bud abscission due to temperature extremes.
Genetics does not lie. For the most part, there isn't much that can be done to get tomatoes to set fruit once the temps get over 93 degrees. From what I can tell, if a blossom is still at what I call the "half open stage" in the evening, then the pollen is going to clump before it opens. It seems that the blossoms that are just beginning to crack in the evening still set some fruit. I am assuming the pollination is occurring just around sunrise when the temps are lower but before the blossom completely opens. Until something new comes along there are still a few tomatoes that can set some fruit in the heat. And by "heat", I mean what we experience in the South. Anyone living outside of Dixie can't imagine what we deal with in the summer. I have had good luck with Bradley, Brown Plum, Red Global, Arkansas Traveler, Indian Stripe, New Zealand, Spitfire F1, Sungold F1, and Solar Set F1. None of these are bullet proof, but they are more likely to set fruit at higher temperatures and higher humidity. Tomatoes that set fruit in the heat are my main focus. I am seeing some promising results in my breeding experiments and currently have 11 groupings of breeding lines that are showing some fruit set above the 93 degree mark. Perhaps when I get something stable I can get you and a few others to trial them for me. |
December 17, 2012 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,251
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There are some university researchers in Texas who are doing some serious work on heat tolerant tomato lines. Randy Gardner is working on some cooperative work with them to introgress late blight tolerance into heat tolerant lines. I don't know of anything significant that is ready to release.
DarJones |
December 28, 2012 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Benny, I am on the Coastal Bend and I just found this site for Tropical Hot/Humid seed collection. It is Tomatofest.com and I just made a purchase to see just how well they do here in my area.
http://www.tomatofest.com/tomato-see...ollection.html
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December 28, 2012 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,251
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The varieties that tomatofest recommends for heat and humidity are not significantly tolerant. You hit 96 degrees and the very best heat tolerant varieties croak. I've seen 3 weeks with daily temps over 105 here in Alabama. There are NO tomatoes that will set fruit and most tomatoes that have fruit on them just sit there and cringe at the heat.
With that said, there are some varieties that I rely on to make a crop. These will do as much as any out there. Just don't expect them to make a crop when the heat is really on. Arkansas Traveler, Atkinson, Burgundy Traveler, Creole, Eva Purple Ball, Muleteam, Box Car Willie, Tropic, Manalucie, Manapal If you want to try the heat tolerant no flavor varieties, Heatwave, Sunleaper, etc. DarJones |
January 7, 2013 | #29 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Quote:
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ |
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January 7, 2013 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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I never spend money at TomatoFest. Nice on line catalog but there are too many smaller, family vendors I trust.
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