Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old January 17, 2013   #16
Redbaron
Tomatovillian™
 
Redbaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TightenUp View Post

so my question is does anyone start seeds maybe a week or two later and not pot up?
All these answers are good. But to answer directly. YES I do it and yes it works great. The 72 cell Jiffy pro starter with dome will provide enough room for a large enough tomato seedling to transplant outdoors for a home gardener.


Your seedlings will generally quickly out grow it, but if you start the seeds later, it won't be a problem.

So here is the strategy. Start one batch of seedlings early. When they get big enough, pot them up, (I use home made paper pots or used plastic pots from previous years). Start a new batch of seeds. Plant all 144 outside same time.

Generally the smaller plants do have a few more problems initially, not a lot though. Less resistance to say cut worms or a stray insect. Because they are small, one bite may mean the whole plant instead of just a leaf. But within a few weeks all your plants generally have settled in fine and often by the end of the season you can't even see any difference at all.
__________________
Scott

AKA The Redbaron

"Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system."
Bill Mollison
co-founder of permaculture
Redbaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 17, 2013   #17
TightenUp
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
Default

Thanks Scott

thought i remembered all those hybrids my dad would come home with from the local garden store in little cells. they always did well
__________________

TightenUp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 17, 2013   #18
Father'sDaughter
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TightenUp View Post
whats the diff between t12, t8, t5 etc.????
According to what I've read, the T8's are not only a smaller diameter than the T12s, they're also more energy efficient and reportedly put out more light. I also remember hearing that the T12s would be/are being phased out. All I know is that when I bought mine, my husband said the T8s were the ones I wanted, so that's what I got and with the daylight bulbs, they've been working great.
Father'sDaughter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #19
JamesL
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
Default

The T-12's are the ones being phased out. Last I read they will be available for sale until 2014. They are the big ones.
I use these 4 bulb t-8 fixtures which are $50 apiece, not the cheapest but I figured I could always re-purpose if needed. The chains make it easy to move them up in increments as the plants grow.
http://www.homedepot.com/Lithonia-Li...1#.UPjchfLMvuw

Also went with alternating warm and cool bulbs in each. Can't say if it really matters that much, but bulb 10 packs are only $30 - $35 so what the heck.

Timers - I like these - Doesn't show it but you can plug 2 light fixtures into each. $16.50 a pop.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...1#.UPjgMPLMvuw

Here is a pic of some new big dwarfs growing in the basement last April.
Also a garage pic from early May about a week before plant out.
No natural light in either the garage or the basement.

fortyonenorth's rotation is a great idea if you are truly out of space. I had plenty of garage room and just went and bought more lights.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1060721.jpg (478.3 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg P1060732-1.jpg (483.4 KB, 24 views)
JamesL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #20
TightenUp
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
Default

thanks all!!

not sure which direction i will be heading but now feel like i'm equipped with enough knowledge to get through this seed starting season. first of all i need to check out my space and make sure i can handle some extra lighting.

if need be i can stagger my seed starting, or keep the lights running 24/7 and rotate plants, or just use my little cells and start a bit later. all good ideas here and i'm not sure which i will choose.

again, thanks!
__________________

TightenUp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #21
zeroma
Tomatovillian™
 
zeroma's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 637
Default

If I get the 2 bulb shop light how much space does one fixture cover?

Or a 4 bulb shop light?
zeroma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #22
Crandrew
Tomatovillian™
 
Crandrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
Default

Fluorescent has a very small footprint. Especially due to the fact that it needs to be writhing a few inch of the foliage.

HPS will spread and penetrate.
Crandrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #23
JamesL
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
Default

Zeroma,
The standard length is 4 feet for the t-8 fixtures. The bulbs being slightly shorter. Most t-12 fixtures are the same.
The 4 bulb I referenced has a 12" reflector. so 2 side by side covers a 4 X 2 area directly.

Jeff,
I am sure you will do fine no matter which direction you go.
JamesL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #24
SteveS
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 123
Default

If you have a rich aunt pass away, look at the T5 HO setups.
Results in much stockier plants & don't have to be as close to the lights.
SteveS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #25
Tracydr
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fortyonenorth View Post
When I run out of room, I move to a 2-shift setup where I put 1/2 of the plants under the lights from 7am to 7pm and then move the other half under from 7pm to 7am.
Brilliant! I'm having this issue right now!
Tracydr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #26
jillybeantx
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: DFW area, TX
Posts: 40
Default

I just dealt with this issue over the weekend. Didn't really set a budget but wanted to be low cost about it. At Lowes I found a set of plastic shelves on clearance ($25) , and bought 4 2-bulb T12's ($12 each) and box of 10 Daylight bulbs ($30). The 4 bulb fixtures were about $50 each - cheaper to buy 2 2-bulb. I had to hang 2 fixtures side by side to fill the space on the shelf, so I have seed sprouting on one shelf, lights on 2 shelves, and supplies on the bottom shelf and very top. So far I'm very pleased with the set up - plants looked different within 12 hours!
jillybeantx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #27
rwsacto
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 288
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TightenUp View Post
whats the diff between t12, t8, t5 etc.????
The diameter of fluorescent tubes are designated in 1/8 inch increments. T12 is 12/8 or 1-1/2 inch diameter. T8 is 8/8 or one inch diameter, etc. Typically, the smaller diameter tubes put out more light per watt.

Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL) are the equivalent of about T3. You can also make a grow light fixture by getting a used bathroom mirror fixture that uses 3-8 lightbulbs in a row and use with 24 watt CFLs. Check the Habitat for Humanity store, these things go for a dollar or two used and come in several lengths.

Note that CFLs do not work well when pointed downward and may overheat so I recommend the mirror fixture be rigged horizontal and make a reflector on the top.

Hope this helps,

Rick
rwsacto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #28
Crandrew
Tomatovillian™
 
Crandrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
Default

^which is why I always push a t5 setup with FL.
Crandrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #29
Greenthumbroy
Tomatovillian™
 
Greenthumbroy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Fresno CA USDA Zone 9B
Posts: 20
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TightenUp View Post
whats the diff between t12, t8, t5 etc.????
Try this website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent-lamp_formats

This should answer all of your questions.
Greenthumbroy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18, 2013   #30
zeroma
Tomatovillian™
 
zeroma's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 637
Default

Greenthumbroy, that wetsite you posted had my head spinning as I know nothing about lights. So I just did a search - just found this site that was helpful for me.

http://www.earthineer.com/content.php?blogid=328

It helped me figure out what 'color' light is needed as well. I was wondering why some posters said to use one cool and one warm. I'm going to check out a few places tomorrow, including the Habitat for Humanity store.

I'll be sure to print out some information so I don't feel overwhelmed when I get to looking!
zeroma is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:35 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★