New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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January 28, 2013 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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Pro Mix comes bone dry, that's the way it always was. I think most of the baled professional mixes are like that. I'd hate to pick up a bale of that stuff if it was wet.
Fox Farms are totally different types of mixes, more complex and biologically active ingredients, it has to be moist to keep things alive. |
January 28, 2013 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 40
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Miracle Gro Seed Starting Mix; I've tried other mixes like Jiffy, and starting in coir, but they didn't work well. I've even started many cuttings in MG SSM and they've rooted amazingly! All my seeds really seem to enjoy it.
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February 5, 2013 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
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Picked up some FF Light Warrior- not happy with the large perlite pieces. It looks just like Jiffy starter mix with myco's?
Will see how it goes, as I sowed some toms' pepper(chile) and basil. I'll have to compare w/ DE. Actually I like 1/2 DE and 1/2 turface fines with a touch of FF Happy frog/ Ocean forest. |
February 6, 2013 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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Here are some peas grown since day 3 in fox farm ocean forest. This picture is at 2 weeks.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360124262.401915.jpg As comparison here is some spinach (slowest sprout ever) at the 2 week period. Last edited by Crandrew; February 6, 2013 at 12:21 AM. |
February 6, 2013 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Candrew,
Just curious - why did you select Ocean Forest versus Happy Frog for seed starting? Raybo |
February 6, 2013 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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Raybo,
I really wish I had a fancy answer for you but simply put, I'm trying it out. Last year I used a bag of happy frog to pot up a bunch of plants and ran out (I found it equally as good). So when i went back to the hydro store I decided to try the ocean forest, and have been happy with the results. I know folks say that neither is sterile but I've never had issue with them, I guess its only a matter of time. It just seems like a nice mix of elements. I've wanted to try some of the metro mix but haven't gotten around to finding/buying some. |
February 6, 2013 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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Crancrew, I think some growers are just germaphobes.
The idea of a sterile potting soil is a fantasy for the most part, you can have the most carefully sterilized soil and it won't remain sterile for long. Bacteria and fungal spores are everywhere, floating in the air, in the water, and on you. Most are beneficial in some way and some are plant pathogens If your soil doesn't have the beneficial's to protect the plant, then the pathogens have an opening to dominate. Other than that what good is a rich organic soil mix without good bacteria and fungi? I guess you could say it would be essentially dead and useless to the plant since all those organic nutrients would not be mineralized and made available to the plant. |
February 6, 2013 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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^well said I also will be dipping my seedlings in Actinovate and Myco when they get planted out. Hopefully to add some more beneficial.
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February 6, 2013 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
For starting seedlings for that first couple weeks you need consistent. That's why people like sterile soilless mixes. Gives the seeds a chance to get up and started first, because you can control the environment the seeds germinate in to a fairly high degree.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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February 6, 2013 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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February 6, 2013 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,468
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Quote:
Compost is inconsistent by nature since you don't know exactly what critters are dominating at any time, but adding your own beneficial inoculants can help that. Chances are your seeds are already populated by bacteria and fungi. They colonize the seed coat. In the moist soil they grow and thrive, weakening the seed coat and making it easier for the seed to germinate. |
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February 6, 2013 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
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February 6, 2013 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I use just coir in tiny cells smaller than the cup in an egg carton
(like a plug flat) to sprout seeds, and it is kind of moist when I fill them, but I water the first time with about 1 part hydrogen peroxide (3%) to 10 parts water, so it is fairly sterile at first, because the hydrogen peroxide kills bacteria (I do not know if it kills fungi, but I have not had problems with damping off doing this). It does not stay sterile, of course. Then when I pot up into 3-4" pots, I use whatever: coir plus perlite plus worm castings, a bagged container mix like MetroMix or Black Gold or Promix, various homemade mixes of peat, perlite, and compost, etc. By then the peroxide has all reacted with the coir, and I inoculate with Mycogrow for Vegetables or Mycogrow Soluble or something like that. Often the more expensive bagged mixes have mycorrhizae spores already, and some of the organic granular fertilizers have mycorrhizae, too, so a pinch of fertilizer mixed into a 4" pot when potting the seedlings up will inoculate them. You can find descriptions of Sun Gro mixes like Metro Mix 360 here: http://www.sungro.com/products.php I have been using Beats Peat for coir for seed sprouting: http://www.groworganic.com/beats-pea...-ft-brick.html (It comes as a compressed brick that takes a week to hydrate enough to fully expand at first, but it has consistent pH and texture and low salt. Cutting it into smaller pieces with a saw when it is dry speeds things up.)
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February 7, 2013 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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FYI the Paroxide will kill algae for sure, not sure about the fungi. I add it to my hydroponic DWC's to control the algae and add a ton of oxygen to the water.
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February 7, 2013 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY - USDA 5b
Posts: 241
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Speaking of Algae, I used clear plastic drink cups and 1-quart clear carryout cups one year for potting up plants. I had green soil on all my potted-up plants. I use water from an Artesian spring on my property, and without chlorine it really encouraged algae growth in those clear plastic containers in sunlight. I pay a little more for black cups now. I can't really chlorinate the spring because it's fed at 5 gpm, so I'd have to treat it daily.
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