General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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June 27, 2014 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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June 27, 2014 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Quote:
The dolomite is from a 50lb bag, about $6, that I get at HD. Its white and yellow. My potting mix is Promix BX. I am going to try solarizing them this year by draining off the excess H2O, then covering in a black plastic garbage bag with fabric store elastic around it and each end vertically. I'll punch some holes in the black plastic at the sides of the boxes to let out evaporation, but not let more water in. Then the sun can solarize all the diseases out for about 2 months. Then time to replenish! |
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June 27, 2014 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Barb, I think the place where Earthbox falls down is those plastic mulch covers. They are expensive, and just don't last. Thats why I am trying the garbage bag with fabric store elastic vertically around each end. If it holds up, when I replant I will use white tall kitchen trash bags secured that way.
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June 28, 2014 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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Do I understand you guys cover the top (with plant sticking through) with plastic? This is a form of mulch...right?
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June 28, 2014 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 135
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I don't use any plastic covers. I never understood what purpose they serve. I have 18 Earth boxes and thought that was a lot, but 43!
Last edited by Balr14; June 28, 2014 at 01:01 AM. |
June 28, 2014 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Quote:
Keeps the moisture in which is critical in a wicking system, Keeps most of the pathogens out and away from the "soil" Keeps the plant leaves away from the moisture that is constant, so less fungus Earthboxes depend on a closed system to function properly. Their own mulch cover has elastic around the entire border, and it is black on one side, white on the other, depending on whether you are growing in cool weather( black) or warm weather( white) but they are $1 each if you buy 10 or more, and over $2 if you buy less, and they cant be used after one season because they degrade. I am trying to improvise. 43 because they perform so well, and are so easy. The last 3 were on sale for too cheap to pass up! |
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June 28, 2014 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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I understand...so what method of planting and covering with plastic do you use??? Plant first, then plastic...or plastic in place and slit plastic for planting?
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June 28, 2014 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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.....
Last edited by luigiwu; June 29, 2014 at 12:11 AM. |
June 28, 2014 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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According to the directions, you cover first, then plant. I do the opposite; I plant first, then cover and use duct tape to mend the holes in the plastic. On my gardener supply troughs (like EB Juniors, but bigger/longer, I just use hay for the cover and it works fine. I know someone that does this for EB too - actually, he gave me the idea. I was using the EB covers (get 2 per kit) so I had enough.
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June 28, 2014 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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thanks....it simply seems the objective is to minimize the evaporative effects of the sun (ie. mulch). It does seem many ideas would work...but maybe the plastic keeps the most moisture within the system???
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June 28, 2014 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 30
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Do you guys and gals use any real soil in the boxes, or is it all manufactured????. Sorry, I'm a soil guy and want to make sure, and because of failing eyesight will move to container plants nexr year.
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June 28, 2014 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Ed this video might help. It shows and explains earthbox technology and also what to do to plant
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LayaD5N8j1U There are some other earthbox videos on youtube too, even some with an older gentleman named Blake, who invented it. |
June 28, 2014 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Jim, it is potting mix, not soil. Soil in an earthbox gets to be mud in the lower layers. Soil Doesn't allow for much growth before rot sets in. That's because there is always a constant source of water, the reservoir.
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June 28, 2014 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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Ginger and some of the other EBers out there have done a great job. I suggest you purchase at least one. Set it up EXACTLY as the directions instruct, no changing of anything. Then you can decide if you want to try building your own or buying more EBs. OZBO usually has them for mid thirties and the flat rate shipping is cheap. Add me to the list of those that A) LOVE Earthbox and B) do not own stock! Invariably, those that have trouble or less than stellar results have decided to try and "improve" on the system or have made a mistake in setup.
The plastic covering is also important to avoid getting your fertilizer strip wet when it rains. If that happens, a high dose of nutrients can be released all at once. FYI I just finished eating the most fab BLT with a Brandyboy tomato grown in one of my EBs and Provolone cheese. It was to die for. |
June 29, 2014 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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sun and ginger....thanks for all the help! My container plantings are doing good...but I think things could be better. Some of my maters have serious rolling of the leaves. That really bugs me...although the fruit is numerous and good. The lush pics of earthbox plants really looks cool.
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