New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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January 15, 2007 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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what a difference in the two pics Feldon. I dont have any idea why there would be that much of a difference. Think the potting mix could make that much difference? Mine are ready to be transplanted up, but I am having a hard time finding containers. Hopefully, those babies will take off Feldon and you wont have to depend on backups
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January 15, 2007 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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You can use 16 oz Solo cups from Wal-Mart with a hole cut in the side. Or heck just styrofoam cups.
I ended up splurging on 4" pots from Charley's Greenhouse. Model #8551 4 inch Deep Pots 3 inch sq. x 4 inch deep $0.18/ea qty 100 with $6.95 shipping works out to .25 each. 4" pots at Charley's Greenhouse
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January 15, 2007 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CO Zone 5
Posts: 97
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Feldon, just a thought but it appears that the light bulbs are closer to the plants in the first photo. Is it possible to lower the light or raise the plants?
Kurt |
January 15, 2007 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I moved the light to take the pictures. In reality, the fluorescent lights are at the lowest they'll go, and the seed starting flat is elevated with empty DVD cases so that the seedlings are almost touching the bulbs.
I run the bulbs 16 hours a day at least. I actually let them go 24 hours a couple of times.
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January 15, 2007 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CO Zone 5
Posts: 97
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Wow, that is really an amazing difference from year to year! Temperature and soil are the only other things I can think of, and those probably didn't change year to year. Please be sure to post if you find the reason for the different growth rates, I love a good mystery! It sure shows the value of taking regular photos and garden notes doesn't it?
Kurt |
January 15, 2007 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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a couple of questions without starting another thread. my seedlings look like they are ready to pot up. do you guys usually harden off before potting up? once you have started the hardening off process, do you take the plants back inside each day or just move them to a protected area outside? of course the temps outside would have to be cooperative. I have had my lone brandywine outside for a few days now, giving it some sun each day and then moving it to a shady spot, then to my covered patio overnight. temps in the 30s for the next few days so I have it inside at the moment.
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January 15, 2007 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I would pot up to 4" pots or cups when you think you can safely pull the plant out by its true leaves (not the stem, which may break) without damaging it.
Since it's 2 months until you plant out, hardening off sounds premature. Anyway, it's 33 degrees outside, practically snowing, and we're not supposed to hit 50 until Friday. I think it's a bit early. Setting tomato plants out in 40's or low 50's for even a short time can shock them and may set them back.
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January 15, 2007 | #23 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
I was really blown away when I bought a Big Beef transplant and even though it was only 10 inches tall, the stem was THICK, and it would not have looked strange with a leather jacket draped over it. Talk about tough looking.
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January 15, 2007 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Quote:
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January 16, 2007 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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Thanks everyone ~ one day I'll have lights ~
I live at the Bayshore (less than a mile from my beach) and the wind gets real strong ~ In 2006, I started my plants waaaaaay to early, so those are the BIGGEST transplants I've EVER had ~ But this was no problem other than having to rotate them a couple times a week: that "trenching-method" worked wonders ~ I sometimes have done it for "medium" sized plants ~ In my opinion , when I do do it, the stems get really thick and are able to handle the high winds ~ I've even had major storms blow over cages, and had I not trenched them ? They would have TOTALLY up-rooted ~ Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
January 17, 2007 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MS
Posts: 1,523
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What kind of fish emulsion are you using? Is all of it about the same?
Don
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January 17, 2007 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Lowe's was dumping their Alaska fish emulsion, normally $6.95 for $1.47. I got one. I alternate between it and Maxicrop kelp.
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January 17, 2007 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
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Well, I'm soaking seeds to re-sow at least one cell of each of the 25 varieties I picked out.
I also followed some advice I received to transplant the 10 healthiest seedlings into 4" pots full of fresh soilless seed starting mix. I'm keeping them moist by misting since their roots were briefly exposed to air and will watch carefully for wilting.
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January 17, 2007 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MS
Posts: 1,523
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I bought some of the Alaskan stuff the other day and used it on some house plants. Now my house smells like a public rest room. Must be some stout stuff in them Alaskan fish.
Don
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Zone 7B, N. MS |
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