What is going on with my plant? - Page 2

TexasTycoon · June 25, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sojourner

IMO that's a little small for a tomatoes - but bigger than a 5 gallon bucket, so not horrible. Check your Lows for some 25 to 26" pots on sale for $9 - I got 8 of these the day before yesterday, maybe they have them on clearance at your local Lows too.If you can find them, use those for tomatoes next year.

I noted the interveinal chlorosis as well. If you're not overwatering, its more likely that may be a magnesium deficiency than an iron deficiency, tomatoes are prone to a bit of that. An application of epsom salts could clear that right up and it won't hurt.

Thanks for the tip! I live not 5 minutes from Lowe's, so I'll check it out ASAP! The pot might be a little bigger than the one I linked, I just can't remember for sure. I'll measure it tonight and update if it's a different size.

**mdvpc** · June 25, 2015

MG Potting Mix has so little fert in it, its very negligible. You are not okverfertilizing.

Soil testing on container gardening is a waste unfortunately, cause the nutrients are being flushed out every watering, so your soil testing is not accurate.

Agree with Marsha, looks like a nutrient deficiency.

For a fert with a container garden (I gardened only in containers for 20+ years in El Paso) I would recommend Texas Tomato Food (he is a member here) or General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom. The Gro is for the initial plant out and while establishing your plants, then you switch to Bloom.

**mdvpc** · June 25, 2015

MG Potting Mix has so little fert in it, its very negligible. You are not overfertilizing.

Soil testing on a container gardening is a waste unfortunately, cause the nutrients are being flushed out every watering, so your soil testing is not accurate.

Agree with Marsha, looks like a nutrient deficiency.

For a fert with a container garden (I gardened only in containers for 20+ years in El Paso) I would recommend Texas Tomato Food (he is a member here) or General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom. If you decide to use GH, Gro is for the initial plant out and while establishing your plants, then you switch to Bloom.

TexasTycoon · June 25, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdvpc

MG Potting Mix has so little fert in it, its very negligible. You are not overfertilizing.

Soil testing on a container gardening is a waste unfortunately, cause the nutrients are being flushed out every watering, so your soil testing is not accurate.

Agree with Marsha, looks like a nutrient deficiency.

For a fert with a container garden (I gardened only in containers for 20+ years in El Paso) I would recommend Texas Tomato Food (he is a member here) or General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom. If you decide to use GH, Gro is for the initial plant out and while establishing your plants, then you switch to Bloom.

I've been looking into TTF after seeing it mentioned here so often (I was a lurker before joining), definitely need to order some soon. I sprayed the whole plant (and the little rooted branch) with epsom salt and water just now, hopefully will see the leaves perking up soon.

Came home to find a mockingbird face deep in a ripe tomato I was planning on picking today. Do those fake owls help keep birds away at all?

**mdvpc** · June 25, 2015

Fake owls work for a day or two. Supposedly if you move them every day, there are more effective. I am taking the fruit when it blushes, cause the squirrels and birds are on them as soon as they get red.

I hope the epsom helps, but I think you need a complete formula, including micros. If you go to Loews, you can get either Tomato Tone or Garden Tone from Espoma. If you put a cup on the soil, not close to the stem, and scratch it in, that will help. If they have kelp from Espoma, or some other producer, a foliar of that will help, and also a soil drench will help too.

TexasTycoon · June 26, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdvpc

Fake owls work for a day or two. Supposedly if you move them every day, there are more effective. I am taking the fruit when it blushes, cause the squirrels and birds are on them as soon as they get red.

I hope the epsom helps, but I think you need a complete formula, including micros. If you go to Loews, you can get either Tomato Tone or Garden Tone from Espoma. If you put a cup on the soil, not close to the stem, and scratch it in, that will help. If they have kelp from Espoma, or some other producer, a foliar of that will help, and also a soil drench will help too.

I read somewhere that Tycoon tomatoes have to ripen on the vine, but I don't really see why they'd be different from other tomatoes in that regard. There's not enough solid information out there about then just yet since they're still fairly new, I think, but that's the reason I was leaving the fruit out so long. Do you just leave it out on the counter to ripen or is there a technique to it?

Calling around to see if any local places sell TTF, if not will probably order some online and just supplement with Epsom salts (both in the water and sprayed on) until it gets here. It may have been wishful thinking, but the plant did look a little perkier this morning when I glanced at it on the way to the car, so I think the Epsom salt is helping. Does scratching in still work when it's a self-watering (from the bottom) pot?

Sorry for so many questions, I'm still so new to this! Thanks so much for all your help.

Sojourner · June 27, 2015

Yeah, I've never heard of a tomato that won't continue to ripen after you pick it. Some do that better than others - and ripening post-plucking may affect the taste - but any tomato I've ever grown will continue to ripen after being picked. Good thing too, as most of my crop had to be picked green last year due to my very very late start.

TexasTycoon · June 29, 2015

Update: sprayed the plant with Epsom salt (1.5 Tbsp to a 32 oz spray bottle) Friday and Saturday evenings, forgot to do it yesterday but I will tonight. Scratched in a mixture of a couple of tablespoons of Epsom salt, crushed eggshells, and some Jobe's Organic All Purpose food granules (had it on hand, ordering some TTF next paycheck) on Saturday, so hopefully that will do some good in balancing out nutrient levels as well. Newer growth looks really healthy, but the older leaves are still showing interveinal chlorosis and some are turning brown. As long as the new growth is on track, though, there's not much to worry about, right?

zipcode · June 29, 2015

From my experience magnesium deficiency is irreversible, so yeah, as long as there are a good amount of healthy leaves it's fine. The problem should slow down however now that you sprayed.
A complete hydroponic solution like TTF should work great for the future. Those micronutrients included have a huge importance in container growing.

TexasTycoon · June 30, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by zipcode

From my experience magnesium deficiency is irreversible, so yeah, as long as there are a good amount of healthy leaves it's fine. The problem should slow down however now that you sprayed.
A complete hydroponic solution like TTF should work great for the future. Those micronutrients included have a huge importance in container growing.

The majority of the old leaves on the plant are showing the interveinal chlorosis, but all newer growth is solid dark green and looking really good, so it seems to be on the right track. Can't wait to get my hands on some TTF to see how it does for this and my little rooted branch plant! I wish I'd heard of TTF sooner.

Tracydr · June 30, 2015

You may want to check the pH. TX and other SW states are notorious for high pH water. Potting soil is often low pH. Too high or too low will cause chloriosis but is treated totally different.
I would also repot this plant with new potting mix. I mix store bought potting mix with pine bark fines, which are listed as "soil conditioner" at Lowes. I mix at least 50/50.

ginger2778 · June 30, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tracydr

You may want to check the pH. TX and other SW states are notorious for high pH water. Potting soil is often low pH. Too high or too low will cause chloriosis but is treated totally different.
I would also repot this plant with new potting mix. I mix store bought potting mix with pine bark fines, which are listed as "soil conditioner" at Lowes. I mix at least 50/50.

Just FYI, potting mix is usually mostly peat= acidic
Pine bark fines are also acidic, and are used to condition alkaline soils. I hope this is useful info.

TexasTycoon · June 30, 2015

I'm not gonna bother with testing one pot, or repotting such a huge (easily 5 feet+ tall if I'm not counting the pot) plant this late in the season. Probably will just continue to supplement with Epsom until I get my hands on some TTF and let the plant do the best it can for the rest of the growing season. The rooted branch plant will get a better start with a more balanced mix. For my first ever tomato plant, I think this big Tycoon has done alright.

I'll definitely grow Tycoons again next year, since the only real issue we've had with them is the magnesium deficiency. They're resistant to just about everything, so it's been a really good beginner plant for me.

When we get a house and start to plan out an in-ground garden of our own, then I'll be more willing to really invest in getting soil conditions just right. For now, with our 1.5 tomato plants, various herbs, and Satsuma tree in pots on our tiny apartment patio, they're doing alright as is. Thanks for all the help guys.

TexasTycoon · July 8, 2015

Thought I'd share what the leaves look like today and make sure the necrosis is still due to the magnesium deficiency and not bacterial (am I seeing concentric circles or are my eyes playing tricks on me). Sprayed with epsom salt and water every day for about three days, then tapered off to every other day or so. Epsom is in the watering can each watering (2 T for 2 gallons of water). TTF will be ordered this week I hope (if husband remembers).

Also, any idea what this bug is? Blasted him off with water so only got a good look at his underside. Top was kind of shield shaped. A stink bug maybe? I've only ever seen brown stink bugs.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Tracydr · July 8, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by ginger2778

Just FYI, potting mix is usually mostly peat= acidic
Pine bark fines are also acidic, and are used to condition alkaline soils. I hope this is useful info.

Yes, but when the water pH is 8.0 or greater, it usually overtakes the H+ions in the peat based soil after a short time. Having gardened in AZ for 10 years, it was a steep learning curve.
Worth adds vinegar in his watering can with good results.
When canning in AZ, I had to add a big glug of vinegar in my canning pots and also had to wipe the jars with straight vinegar after pulling them out of the canner, just to keep everything from being coated with a thick layer of calcium.
Cleaning the bathroom required Lime Away.
The bug is possibly a stink bug larva. I've been finding the green ones on my plants since I seem to have destroyed most of the full grown stinkers.

June 25, 2015	#17
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	MG Potting Mix has so little fert in it, its very negligible. You are not okverfertilizing. Soil testing on container gardening is a waste unfortunately, cause the nutrients are being flushed out every watering, so your soil testing is not accurate. Agree with Marsha, looks like a nutrient deficiency. For a fert with a container garden (I gardened only in containers for 20+ years in El Paso) I would recommend Texas Tomato Food (he is a member here) or General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom. The Gro is for the initial plant out and while establishing your plants, then you switch to Bloom. __________________ Michael

June 25, 2015	#18
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	MG Potting Mix has so little fert in it, its very negligible. You are not overfertilizing. Soil testing on a container gardening is a waste unfortunately, cause the nutrients are being flushed out every watering, so your soil testing is not accurate. Agree with Marsha, looks like a nutrient deficiency. For a fert with a container garden (I gardened only in containers for 20+ years in El Paso) I would recommend Texas Tomato Food (he is a member here) or General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom. If you decide to use GH, Gro is for the initial plant out and while establishing your plants, then you switch to Bloom. __________________ Michael

June 25, 2015	#20
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Fake owls work for a day or two. Supposedly if you move them every day, there are more effective. I am taking the fruit when it blushes, cause the squirrels and birds are on them as soon as they get red. I hope the epsom helps, but I think you need a complete formula, including micros. If you go to Loews, you can get either Tomato Tone or Garden Tone from Espoma. If you put a cup on the soil, not close to the stem, and scratch it in, that will help. If they have kelp from Espoma, or some other producer, a foliar of that will help, and also a soil drench will help too. __________________ Michael

June 29, 2015	#23
TexasTycoon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2015 Location: Round Rock, TX, Zone 8b Posts: 1,157	Update: sprayed the plant with Epsom salt (1.5 Tbsp to a 32 oz spray bottle) Friday and Saturday evenings, forgot to do it yesterday but I will tonight. Scratched in a mixture of a couple of tablespoons of Epsom salt, crushed eggshells, and some Jobe's Organic All Purpose food granules (had it on hand, ordering some TTF next paycheck) on Saturday, so hopefully that will do some good in balancing out nutrient levels as well. Newer growth looks really healthy, but the older leaves are still showing interveinal chlorosis and some are turning brown. As long as the new growth is on track, though, there's not much to worry about, right? __________________ -Kelly "To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow." - Audrey Hepburn Bloom where you are planted.

June 30, 2015	#28
TexasTycoon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2015 Location: Round Rock, TX, Zone 8b Posts: 1,157	I'm not gonna bother with testing one pot, or repotting such a huge (easily 5 feet+ tall if I'm not counting the pot) plant this late in the season. Probably will just continue to supplement with Epsom until I get my hands on some TTF and let the plant do the best it can for the rest of the growing season. The rooted branch plant will get a better start with a more balanced mix. For my first ever tomato plant, I think this big Tycoon has done alright. I'll definitely grow Tycoons again next year, since the only real issue we've had with them is the magnesium deficiency. They're resistant to just about everything, so it's been a really good beginner plant for me. When we get a house and start to plan out an in-ground garden of our own, then I'll be more willing to really invest in getting soil conditions just right. For now, with our 1.5 tomato plants, various herbs, and Satsuma tree in pots on our tiny apartment patio, they're doing alright as is. Thanks for all the help guys. __________________ -Kelly "To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow." - Audrey Hepburn Bloom where you are planted.

June 27, 2015	#22
Sojourner Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Earth Posts: 27	Yeah, I've never heard of a tomato that won't continue to ripen after you pick it. Some do that better than others - and ripening post-plucking may affect the taste - but any tomato I've ever grown will continue to ripen after being picked. Good thing too, as most of my crop had to be picked green last year due to my very very late start.

June 29, 2015	#24
zipcode Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6 Posts: 1,582	From my experience magnesium deficiency is irreversible, so yeah, as long as there are a good amount of healthy leaves it's fine. The problem should slow down however now that you sprayed. A complete hydroponic solution like TTF should work great for the future. Those micronutrients included have a huge importance in container growing.

June 30, 2015	#26
Tracydr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7 Posts: 3,207	You may want to check the pH. TX and other SW states are notorious for high pH water. Potting soil is often low pH. Too high or too low will cause chloriosis but is treated totally different. I would also repot this plant with new potting mix. I mix store bought potting mix with pine bark fines, which are listed as "soil conditioner" at Lowes. I mix at least 50/50.

July 8, 2015	#29
TexasTycoon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2015 Location: Round Rock, TX, Zone 8b Posts: 1,157	Thought I'd share what the leaves look like today and make sure the necrosis is still due to the magnesium deficiency and not bacterial (am I seeing concentric circles or are my eyes playing tricks on me). Sprayed with epsom salt and water every day for about three days, then tapered off to every other day or so. Epsom is in the watering can each watering (2 T for 2 gallons of water). TTF will be ordered this week I hope (if husband remembers). Also, any idea what this bug is? Blasted him off with water so only got a good look at his underside. Top was kind of shield shaped. A stink bug maybe? I've only ever seen brown stink bugs. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk __________________ -Kelly "To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow." - Audrey Hepburn Bloom where you are planted. Last edited by TexasTycoon; July 8, 2015 at 07:35 PM.