General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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June 3, 2016 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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I start seeds about once a month. And it's more based on productivity and taste than early/mid/late. I'm constantly evaluating new ones so as those fizzle out they get replaced by tried and true ones for that time of the year. For example, Soviets ones like Gribovsky, Mikhalych and G.Altai are tougher and can set fruit in relatively adverse weather (for us).
One of the few rules is if they don't set fruit by the 4th-5th cluster they get pulled, and will be given a shot at another time of the year. If they again fail to produce then retirement awaits. So every 4 weeks I'm starting seeds, keeps me flush with tomatoes year round. Some plants succumb to disease pressures from the get-go, no matter how much you want them to succeed. Last edited by Gerardo; June 3, 2016 at 11:11 AM. |
June 3, 2016 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 99
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Well while I'm waiting for the fog to clear and fruit to set at least my lettuce is happy. This is this mornings haul from two short rows in garden soxx. Lots more to come
Last edited by pixlpush; June 3, 2016 at 05:05 PM. |
June 13, 2016 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: West Los Angeles
Posts: 203
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Gerardo - I'm starting to do what you have been doing. I hope this year I have tomatoes all year long. I've always just let the plant stay in its spot thinking maybe it will get better later on which usually doesn't happen.
pixlpush - That lettuce looks amazing! |
June 17, 2016 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: California
Posts: 124
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I'm loving this thread. There are so many micro-climates in So. Cal. I'm in Hollywood (Sunset zone 23) and I'm starting late this year too. I'm no tomato expert so I'm just experimenting with anything that I have resources for. Right now I'm looking at maybe 2 dozen fruits on each of the seedlings I bought in a pony six pack at HD on April Fools day. I rooted a bunch of suckers from those and they have fruit set already too. The plants I started from seeds in April have set fruit too. My May seedlings are 5"-12" tall and ready to replant into 7 gallon or 15 gallon pots.
I am growing everything in pots and am experimenting with moving them around my yard to give them maximum sun. Over the years, my house got surrounded by 2 story apartments and strip malls and most of it is in shade part of the day. There are many spots where I can move a plant a few feet and give it 3 or 4 hours more sun. Then I have to move it back so it gets the morning sun. I noticed a big improvement in plant size and fruit set over just planting them in the ground in one spot, but I've only been doing this for a few months. It's supposed to be 100F in LA next week so they are going to get their first test of real heat. The plants get harder and harder to move as they get bigger. Right now I'm only moving 30 big pots, but in the next few weeks that will jump to over 120 when I plant out my May seedlings. I'm also starting a June seed batch this weekend. Gerardo has inspired me to plant tomatoes year round. |
June 17, 2016 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Gardening requires moving so many things. And this thought of containers being easier to work with as you get older makes me think I'm doing something wrong.
So, this pic is my second planting. Sown 4wks ago, two each of Marglobe, EM Champion, and F1 Bush Champion II. Another week inside then I'll harden off and plant around July 1st. These are hardy determinates that should ripen 65-75 days, mid-late September. Plan to put several controls on these pairs with container size and pot material. Last edited by Ricky Shaw; June 17, 2016 at 08:59 AM. |
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