January 13, 2018 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,836
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January 13, 2018 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Ooops, must have been the beer I had watching the Eagle game. But it does say to start tomatoes on Mar 31st and Peppers April 7th (only 1 week later, not 2) ... but still incorrect by my book. Eggplants it says Mar 24th.
Peppers and eggplants should be started at least 2 weeks earlier than tomatoes. Last year I jumped the gun and started most of my peppers in early-mid Feb and my tomatoes in late Feb/early Mar. It was way too early for the tomatoes as I found out when they got too large too quick, but the peppers were somewhat manageable and gave me a good crop. This year, I think I will probably not start my peppers and eggplants until Mar 3rd and tomatoes will not be started until the 31st. Another lesson learned from last year is that I will not grow for anyone else but myself ... it was just too much of a burden with all of the extra plants. They can learn to grow for themselves or buy from the garden center like they used to do. |
January 13, 2018 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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Superhots start slower than sweet peppers - I usually start mine in late Dec for a late March plant out. Watch your soil temp closely - keep it between 75 and 85 degrees. I use a laser pointer thermometer to test the temps in the germinating tray. You will be surprised how much the temps differ from the center of the tray to the edges. So start your hot peppers in the center, then the eggs, then the toms around the edge. Just a tip.
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January 14, 2018 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 166
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January 15, 2018 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Corinth, texas
Posts: 1,784
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I seem to remember some quick start method to treat hard or slow to germinate pepper and eggplant seeds. I can't remember the details, but I think it is something like soaking the seeds for a few days in warm water on a heat mat. After pre-soaking the seeds a few days, plant them in seed starting mix with very little moisture. I have no idea how accurate my memory is.
I planted my tomato, pepper; and egg plant seeds on January 6 with the peppers and egg plant seeds on heat mats set to about 80 degrees F. My tomatoes will be set out after mid March if the long term weather forecast looks good. My peppers and egg plant will be set out between early and late April. The peppers and eggplant don't seem to grow well in the cooler soil which tomatoes like. |
January 16, 2018 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 166
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There is a quick start method whereby you put the seeds on wet paper towel and place the towel in a zip-lock bag and leave it in a warm place (such as on top of the fridge) for a few days.
I found some detailed guidance that came with my pepper seeds from Pepper Joe's. ----------------------------------------------------- Quote:
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January 17, 2018 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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I do it this way all the time with the same success rate as using starting mix. I use a coffee filter instead of a paper towel, the radicle can easily get imbedded into the grain of the towel and might break off when removed if not careful.
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January 17, 2018 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,836
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That's a good tip! I'm going to try it some superhots.
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January 19, 2018 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Corinth, texas
Posts: 1,784
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I planted some habanero seeds on Jan. 6 in starting mix on top of heat mats set at 80 degrees. They sprouted on Jan. 19. That's only 13 days. Seems a little odd for them to sprout that fast. They were old seeds still in an unopened pack of seeds I received as a bonus from one of the tomato seed vendors after purchasing some tomato seeds a few years ago. I seem to get a lot of bonus packs from different companies. I usually keep the bonus packs separate from my other seeds because it is rarely anything I really wanted. Maybe this pack will be something I should have planted years ago.
I did put a clear plastic cover over the cells after planting the seeds. my intent was to retain some of the humidity, but the covers were not tight fitting allowing some air circulation. Last edited by DonDuck; January 19, 2018 at 04:53 PM. |
January 19, 2018 | #25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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I've never really noticed the difference in sweet or hot pepper germination time. Last year a few of my bell peppers took 16 days, most around 10. Maybe the superhots are different. I'll be starting some Carolina reaper this year so I guess I'll find out. |
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January 19, 2018 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 166
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Thanks DonDuck and rhines81.
I Admire how well y'all keep records. I tend to just plant things and watch how it goes. I figure I'm doing good if I can keep track of what I planted and where. |
January 19, 2018 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Corinth, texas
Posts: 1,784
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Jerry, you are hilarious. I thought many times about keeping a journal but it is a llttle late in my life to worry about it now. My memory is fleeting. Most people on this forum have forgotten more about growing stuff than I will ever know. I am just smart enough to ask a lot of questions. Enjoy your peppers!
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January 20, 2018 | #28 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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I do keep a basic spread sheet every year, doesn't take much time but it does take a little dedication. My feeble brain has already forgotten what a pain in the A$$ it was to get a decent crop of TAM Jalapenos last year ... they were awful in germination and growing out (according to my spreadsheet, but I had already forgotten that). I actually had to sow 4:1 the amount of seed to get the number of plants I was looking to get. It tells a story - get fresh seed or look for another source or type ... the few minutes of logging that information will help in future years (especially if you're a drunk and forget things like I do). Hell yea, just being honest here. |
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January 20, 2018 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Never rely on "free" internet garden planners ... they REALLY "F'd" me last year when in June (after I spent a ton of time on their site planning my garden) they decided to start charging a fee. I had my whole garden laid out to the inch on one of these "free" sites, then once I started to harvest I revisited the site and could not access my plot plan without paying ... it was a good thing I had some written records as to what was planted where or I would have been totally lost. I still had confusion because I relied too heavily on the site for some single plantings which I did not record elsewhere, so in the end they won ... I ate unidentified food (but I lived).
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January 20, 2018 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Corinth, texas
Posts: 1,784
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I saved some varieties of pepper seeds a couple of years ago and placed them in clear, plastic cups to dry before storing them. Instead of labeling each sup with the fulll name of each pepper, I only used the first letter of each name to identify each pepper. I thought my memory was still good enough to remember each name with the single letter prompt. Now, two years later; the seeds are still drying in their cups on top of a tall tool chest in my shop and I am racking my brain trying to identify them. I know RS stands for Red Scorpion. BH stands for Bishops Hat. DY stands for Double Yield cucumber. SC stands for Sweet Cayenne. What the heck does TP stand for?
Last edited by DonDuck; January 20, 2018 at 01:32 PM. |
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