General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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January 23, 2008 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 271
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How are egg shells for containers?
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January 23, 2008 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Yes, I did. The 16-16-16 numbers don't line up with what I know about the nutrients that tomatoes prefer (especially micronutrients). But as you say, it is up to each gardener to decide what they want to put in their soil. The numbers on TomatoTone 4-7-10 sound like what I know about tomatoes, but I have only grown 4 seasons of tomatoes so far.
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January 23, 2008 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX Zone 8b
Posts: 531
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I always use egg shells. But I heard it really takes up to 6 months to break down. Season is almost over by then.
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January 24, 2008 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Quote:
cooked over the winter before they get mixed into soil. I have taken a handful and just crushed them in my hand and dropped them into the soil right under a transplanted seedling. None of those plants showed any BER. It seems to me that even if it takes six months to get the full effect of adding eggshells, *some* calcium is available from them anytime that the soil is moist. Whether that alone would be enough to keep up with the demand for calcium from a plant in a container during fruit formation I don't know (might depend on the cultivar). A drainage layer of chunks of limestone or drywall in the bottom of the container could provide an abundance of calcium without significantly effecting the pH of the container mix.
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March 25, 2008 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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I add calcium starting in July. I take some lime pellets and throw a handful around the soil and repeat it every three weeks. The theory is that a lack of calcium creates cracking
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March 25, 2008 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Wondering about lead in Tomato Tone, I checked out
Fox Farms Peace of Mind Tomato & Vegetable food in the WA St. fertilizer database: http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilize...asp?pname=3401 Here is Tomato Tone again for comparison: http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilize...asp?pname=4535 Note that the Fox Farms product has lower ppm of lead, but also that it lacks calcium and several other micronutrients found in Tomato Tone (so one may want to add some kelp with it). Plant Tone (lower phosphorus and potassium than Tomato Tone) also has the calcium and other micronutrients of Tomato Tone with a lower ppm of lead: http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilize...asp?pname=4530 I am trying this stuff this year (less than $1/lb at HD in early spring), with langbeinite (that I had left over from last year) added to boost the potassium plus kelp and fish emulsion for micronutrients: http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilize...asp?pname=3770 (I also use a tea of any of alfalfa, comfrey, nettles, chickweed, kelp, and molasses, whatever I have on hand, for soil fertility boosters, probably some earthworm castings this year, manure or compost in the beds, lime and gypsum, a little wood ash, etc. The nutrient availability is not really comparable with what it would be using one of these fertilizers exclusively in a container.) My take on it: the lead levels in Tomato Tone and Plant Tone are annoying (anxiety), but they both provide a balance of micronutrients that it costs a fair amount extra to add via other sources (fish emulsion and kelp). I did not find any entries for Maxicrop products in that database to compare levels of lead, arsenic, cadmium, etc with the Espoma and Fox Farms products. It does have E.B. Stone products, though: http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilize...asp?pname=4427 (9% calcium, very low lead and arsenic levels; would benefit from adding some kelp or greensand for extra potassium and micronutrients, but this looks like a decent organic fertilizer as far as having low levels of toxic metals, higher calcium levels, etc.)
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March 25, 2008 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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dice,
Thanks for the comparative information. I am doing an "A/B" comparison between TomatoTone and Fox Farms on 2 sets of Stump of the World, and Carmello plants to evaluate production this season. Ray |
March 25, 2008 | #23 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Quote:
would expect the Fox Farms product to grow a little bigger plant overall (more nitrogen), but it will be interesting to see what difference the micronutrients and extra potassium in Tomato Tone make to production.
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May 16, 2008 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: new england
Posts: 4
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All you need is some solution grade calcium nitrate.
Ding,Ding,Ding! We have a winner! |
May 20, 2008 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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I use to get cracking of tomatoes and and expert told me it was a lack of calcium. So I buy granualted lyme. In July and then every month, I take a fistfull and put it around the plants (not touching) The water washes it into the soil. Th elyme is cheap but very heavy
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