2009 Tomatoes: What are you growing in containers? - Page 3

Moonglow · January 17, 2009

Thanks for the input, Duane. I cannot agree more about the potting mix expense!

decius · February 17, 2009

I think I've finally settled on my list; you would think that I am deciding matters of state rather then determining what tomatoes to grow.

Epoch
Mano Rugose
Petitbec
Kootenai
Dwarf Champion
Orange Tree
Lime Green Salad
Window Box

As usual, if anyone has just cause to think that any of these are not worth growing, please let me know.

Elizabeth (who is looking forward to FINALLY starting her seeds next week)

creister · February 17, 2009

In 18 gallon HEB

Grub's Mystery Green
Azoychka
Cherokee Purple
JD's Special

5 gallon buckets:

Dwarf Stone
New Big Dwarf
Dwarf Champion Improved
Tricot Czech
Czech's Bush
Patio King
Extreme Bush
Mountain Princess

All of my 5 gallon buckets have 1.25" holes drilled in the bottom. I have used them before, and this works well, similar to cutting the bottom off. When the roots get back into the soil through those holes, watering frequency decreases. You must remember to also fertilize more frequently.

I am trying a new potting mix this year.

40% compost
40% coir fiber
10% expanded shale
5% alfalfa meal*
5% Volcanite

* I may leave this out and mix in two cups of biotone starter plus (4-3-3) and includes mychoryzae and beneficial organisms. I would then add more expanded shale. Of course the HEB's will just get 3 cups of fert on top of the same mix per the directions.

creister · February 17, 2009

I just remembered, should I add any dolomite lime to these? I was under the impression it was only needed in peat based mixes due to peat's acidic pH? I know coir fiber is only about 5.5 to 6.5 pH.

amideutch · February 17, 2009

Creister, no need to leave out the alfalfa meal if you use Biotone starter plus. They will compliment each other. I don't think you will need any lime with the potting mix you are planning to use. Ami

dice · February 17, 2009

[creister's mix]

You may not need to adjust pH, but you may want some
additional calcium to avoid BER. (I don't know if what is
in the Bio-Tone is enough for that.) You could use a cup of
1/2 and 1/2 gypsum and lime for the HEBs. That would provide
more calcium and a modest ph adjustment. The 5 gallon
buckets may get by with what is in the calcium-rich soil
underneath them (the roots should be that far down by
the time fruit is developing).

decius · February 17, 2009

Creister- I'm not familiar with expanded shale; it sounds like it would loosen the soil nicely. Where do you find such a thing?

Elizabeth

Moonglow · February 17, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by decius

I think I've finally settled on my list; you would think that I am deciding matters of state rather then determining what tomatoes to grow.

Epoch
Mano Rugose
Petitbec
Kootenai
Dwarf Champion
Orange Tree
Lime Green Salad
Window Box

As usual, if anyone has just cause to think that any of these are not worth growing, please let me know.

Elizabeth (who is looking forward to FINALLY starting her seeds next week)

Elizabeth, someday I will have my own short list, too. I guess my eyes got so big and I wanted to grow so many varieties right away. I'm learning though...Big lesson that instead of January, February is a good month to start my seeds here.

Creister, I started my Azoychka V-Day and super excited about the 70 days! I'm trying out Coco Coir this year.

Dice and Ami, your posts reminded me that I should check the fertilizer portion for Coco Coir.

I WAS really looking forward to investing on EBs this spring; however, with the economy, I should really cut-back.

dice · February 18, 2009

The amount of fertilizer should be the same for peat and coir.
Neither has any significant nutrients of their own, and they
both take about 5 years to break down to silt, given a steady
supply of nitrogen.

So the amount of fertilizer to use depends on the size of the
container and the size of the plant. Fast growing plants like
tomatoes need more fertilizer than things like annual flowers,
small shrubs, etc, although tomatoes are not especially
nitrogen hungry. People tend to start with some modest
amount like a cup or two of a pre-mixed fertilizer per container,
depending on how big it is, and then they add a handful
when the plants start to set fruit, and maybe again a month
after that in areas with long growing seasons, depending on
how the plants are doing.

Expanded shale is kind of like artificial lava rock: lightweight,
holds a lot of air and water, does not crumble to dust in 5
years like vermiculite, has some mineral content, etc. It has
a lot in common with pumice. I had a link for a vendor called
Tru Gro, but last time I checked it was no longer a live link.

decius · February 18, 2009

Moonglow- I used to grow a lot more too, but the year before last we had a serious drought here so I am trying to find the right number that I can grow using just the water from my rain barrels. It's hard to make a short list; I'd much rather make a long list.

I like the coir but I've never seen it in large enough amounts to be economical.

Dice- I've never seen the expanded shale around here but I will look for it. I switched from vermiculite to perlite years ago, but I hate the white bits in the soil, plus the perlite always works its way to the top of the soil.

creister · February 18, 2009

I am able to get the expanded shale at one of our local feed stores. It can be used in your soil as well to loosen up tight soil.

I found 6 cu. ft. of coir fiber for 29.99. Shipping is free if shipped to an ace hardware. You can find it at acehardware.com. Still more than peat, but does not inhibit microbial growth as much as peat. Scandinavians used peat moss to preserve fish.

kerry.heafner · February 18, 2009

This year I think I'm going to try two varieties of cherries...black cherry and Matt's wild cherry....in containers. We'll see what happens.

decius · February 18, 2009

creister- Thanks, I'll remember that for when I run out of peat (which is pretty good for preserving people too, which says a lot about it).

Elizabeth

Moonglow · February 18, 2009

Dice, thank you for the fertilizer info.

Elizabeth, the coco coir blocks are easy for me to get without hubby's help. I can "smuggle" quite a few in my car without him knowing

.

I finally bought five (5) EBs last night and will grow Azoychkas in two (2) EBs. One using coco coir and one using Miracle-Gro.

Kerry, I have definitely a "thing" for black tomatoes. I don't think I have a black cherry on my list, but I'm looking forward to my "Chocolate Cherry" seedlings.

Creister, I shall check that out. There is an Ace Hardware between work and home! How convenient.

I hope you are all having a wonderful week. It will be sunny tomorrow and my seedlings will probably spend the day outdoors.

Annapet

January 17, 2009	#31
Moonglow Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Corte Madera, CA - Sunset Zone 16 Posts: 356	Thanks for the input, Duane. I cannot agree more about the potting mix expense! __________________ Moonglow Gardens Sustainable Gardening One Planter at a Time Sunset Zone 17 Apparently - - - Without the fog!

February 17, 2009	#35
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Creister, no need to leave out the alfalfa meal if you use Biotone starter plus. They will compliment each other. I don't think you will need any lime with the potting mix you are planning to use. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

February 17, 2009	#36
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	[creister's mix] You may not need to adjust pH, but you may want some additional calcium to avoid BER. (I don't know if what is in the Bio-Tone is enough for that.) You could use a cup of 1/2 and 1/2 gypsum and lime for the HEBs. That would provide more calcium and a modest ph adjustment. The 5 gallon buckets may get by with what is in the calcium-rich soil underneath them (the roots should be that far down by the time fruit is developing). __________________ -- alias

February 18, 2009	#39
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	The amount of fertilizer should be the same for peat and coir. Neither has any significant nutrients of their own, and they both take about 5 years to break down to silt, given a steady supply of nitrogen. So the amount of fertilizer to use depends on the size of the container and the size of the plant. Fast growing plants like tomatoes need more fertilizer than things like annual flowers, small shrubs, etc, although tomatoes are not especially nitrogen hungry. People tend to start with some modest amount like a cup or two of a pre-mixed fertilizer per container, depending on how big it is, and then they add a handful when the plants start to set fruit, and maybe again a month after that in areas with long growing seasons, depending on how the plants are doing. Expanded shale is kind of like artificial lava rock: lightweight, holds a lot of air and water, does not crumble to dust in 5 years like vermiculite, has some mineral content, etc. It has a lot in common with pumice. I had a link for a vendor called Tru Gro, but last time I checked it was no longer a live link. __________________ -- alias

February 18, 2009	#42
kerry.heafner Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Posts: 40	This year I think I'm going to try two varieties of cherries...black cherry and Matt's wild cherry....in containers. We'll see what happens. __________________ Kerry

February 17, 2009	#32
decius Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Cary, NC Posts: 23	I think I've finally settled on my list; you would think that I am deciding matters of state rather then determining what tomatoes to grow. Epoch Mano Rugose Petitbec Kootenai Dwarf Champion Orange Tree Lime Green Salad Window Box As usual, if anyone has just cause to think that any of these are not worth growing, please let me know. Elizabeth (who is looking forward to FINALLY starting her seeds next week)

February 17, 2009	#33
creister Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Abilene, TX zone 7 Posts: 1,478	In 18 gallon HEB Grub's Mystery Green Azoychka Cherokee Purple JD's Special 5 gallon buckets: Dwarf Stone New Big Dwarf Dwarf Champion Improved Tricot Czech Czech's Bush Patio King Extreme Bush Mountain Princess All of my 5 gallon buckets have 1.25" holes drilled in the bottom. I have used them before, and this works well, similar to cutting the bottom off. When the roots get back into the soil through those holes, watering frequency decreases. You must remember to also fertilize more frequently. I am trying a new potting mix this year. 40% compost 40% coir fiber 10% expanded shale 5% alfalfa meal* 5% Volcanite * I may leave this out and mix in two cups of biotone starter plus (4-3-3) and includes mychoryzae and beneficial organisms. I would then add more expanded shale. Of course the HEB's will just get 3 cups of fert on top of the same mix per the directions.