New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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February 14, 2011 | #31 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Montréal, Canada
Posts: 347
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Quote:
What I liked about it is that you can keep an eye on what's happening by just putting the plastic bag in front of a light. You'll see through the bag if you got germination. When I saw the seed had germinated I picked it up the seeds with tweasers (spelling?) and put it on top of seedling mix in a cup. I watered the mix before. I covered the seeds lighty with mix and sprayed gently. Put my tray in a warm spot with loose glad wrap on top. You probably knew all that Couple of days later they were up and went under the lights. |
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February 14, 2011 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vaasa, Finland, latitude N 63°
Posts: 838
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I have now tried an other form of this method. I have a piece of packing foam wrapped in a paper towel and that's floating on water in a covered plastic container. The paper wicks water and stays moist also on the top. I sowed some 2003 seeds on the floating wet paper week ago and one of the seeds sprouted in six days. I'm still waiting for the other ones to show signs of life.
Sari
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"I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream." - Moomin-troll by Tove Jansson |
February 16, 2011 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 75
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I started six varieties of peppers on Saturday using this method. For a heat source, I left them on top of my direct tv box in the a/v cabinet -- the things stays warm all day even when not in use -- I'm sure it sucks a lot of power too.
Anyway, two of my varieties (Key West Hybrid and Spanish Spice) saw 100% germination after just four days, so I guess the temperature is just about right with that setup. I also kept the ziplock bag inside a towel for insulation. I've kept to using coffee filters instead of paper towels because I read somewhere that there is less of a problem with the roots digging into the paper. Is that right? Another 1 1/2 weeks and the tomato seeds go in! |
February 16, 2011 | #34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I think that's right. In my experience, the brown paper filter also makes it easier to see the seedling emerge vs. white on white paper towel.
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February 17, 2011 | #35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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Silly little question - you do actually seal the ziploc bag shut, right?
And potting them - you wait until there's a little leaf - around how long should that be? And then plant it with that bit sticking out, not burying the whole thing completely? Sorry, I'm sure these are pretty basic questions. I read the thread, and I think I'm right - just wanted to make sure. |
February 17, 2011 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vaasa, Finland, latitude N 63°
Posts: 838
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I have closed the bag.
The root comes first out from the seed. I plant to soil as soon as I see a tiny white root sticking out. I bury the seed lightly with the root pointing down. Sari
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"I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream." - Moomin-troll by Tove Jansson |
February 17, 2011 | #37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 344
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1) Silly little question - you do actually seal the ziploc bag shut, right?
>> It depends. I have had them germinate open and closed. What I don't do is put too much water in. How much is too much? Not floating I guess. I just give it as much as the coffee filter will hold without being squeezed dry. if they are open they will dry faster. Some say this being open exchanges oxygen into the bag. Not sure I know. I did not use this method until this year, FWIW. 2) And potting them - you wait until there's a little leaf - around how long should that be? >> The cotyledons might or might not be out of the husk. If they are and there's a good bit of stem I bury the stem in a little drill I drag through the mix surface. Sometimes I just bury the less developed ones into the mix surface or sprinkle some mix on top, mist a bit, put under light , and let them go. I have also left the less developed ones to grow a bit more. All an experiment that may not yield meaningful results. 3) And then plant it with that bit sticking out, not burying the whole thing completely? >> Covered above. Sorry, I'm sure these are pretty basic questions. I read the thread, and I think I'm right - just wanted to make sure. >> I don't pretend to have the answers, I just play with stuff until I find what works best for me. What I do agree with is that you do wind up with planted areas or pots that have more growing plants in all the places since the non-starters don't get buried there. Still have damping off and drying out to worry about but that's the same anyway unless it's hydroponics. Haven't had time to experiment with getting the best germination or oldest seeds to all germinate by using tricks. That will come with time and experience. |
February 19, 2011 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I generally only use this method for older seeds that I have
doubts about the viability of or for seeds that I have a very small supply of (like 5 seeds of some cross that I only got one ripe fruit from, for example). I have never let them go until I see a leaf. As soon as I see any root at all, I transfer them into seed-starting mix and water them. (It seems like there would be less chance of root damage that way.)
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February 22, 2011 | #39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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How big a "pot" should I transplant seeds to from the paper towel?
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February 23, 2011 | #40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 344
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I'm sure there are many answers to this.
Starter cells would be a possibility. I don't use them so I can't comment. I generally put them into something just under 2 inches in diameter. No matter what, if you make it too small and use a starting mix you will have to watch the moisture closely. Maybe that is not an issue inside but it sure is outside, which is where mine are right now. |
March 3, 2011 | #41 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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It smells moldy in the bags. is this an issue?
Ive had 15 of 24 varieties germinate so far and these were put into cups under lights. It was still getting up to 100 degrees inside some bags so Ive turned off the heating pads. it will still be at least 65 degrees in the bags though as our house never gets below that level. |
March 3, 2011 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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I have never seen a professional nursery grower use all these random methods. Usually it's straight by the book, seeds into soilless seed starter mix of some sort packed into plug trays, and down the rows they go. Is there any particular reason to pre-sprout sprouts and then transfer them into a sprouting mix?
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March 3, 2011 | #43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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If it smells moldy, you have mold growing. Take the seed out, rinse them off in a strainer, use a new towel or coffee filter and a new bag or clean the old bag out with soapy water.
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March 3, 2011 | #44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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March 3, 2011 | #45 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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