My New Personal Best; 4.46 LB Big Zac

[PA_Julia]

Originally Posted by tedln

Julia,

Since the key to giant tomatoes seems to be the appearance of fused blossoms, is it accidental or is it a random trait of some varieties? Can it be induced? I can only remember a few times in many years when a fused blossom appeared on my plants.

I seem to remember seeing photos of the 7 lb. tomato which supposedly is the "worlds largest" tomato. If my memory is correct, it was a normally shaped tomato which apparently did not result from a fused blossom. I could easily be wrong.

Ted

The record for the largest tomato was set in 1986 by Gordan Graham from Edmond Oklahoma. It was a 7 LB 12 OZ Delicious strain.

Sadly in the giant growing community naming of personal best tomatoes has lacked the strain that the tomato has originated from.T he Delicious strain that Graham started with was tracked in the beginning but due to this lack of proper record keeping we just don't know where that strain is now. Gordans record setter was from a fused blossom and not the resin cast model Miracle Grow provided him with to take along to appearances he made in behalf of the Miracle Grow comapny.

Minnie Zaccaria of NJ created the Big Zac hybrid strain from a cross that has been kept secret.

Minnie is a revered giant grower that has set many records and is a historic figure in giant tomato growing.

Minnie desired a strain that would consistently create fused blossoms for the sole purpose of growing giant tomatoes.

Fused blossoms cannot be solely induced but you can increase the percentage of fused blossoms occuring by using a very high percentage of potassium like what's found in Miracle Grow's Bloom Booster nursery formula 10-52-10 which can be found for sale in higher quality plant centers and nurseries as opposed to the lower potassium variety that bears the same name "" bloom Booster"" found at home centers like Lowes and Home Depot.

Growing for weight competition using organic methods alone is not adequate for inducing higher weights.

A regime of both organic and synthetic fertilizer along with a soil PH of 6.0 to 6.8 is ideal.

I hope this helps you Ted.

[PA_Julia]

Originally Posted by Salsacharley

Hi Julia,

What became of your 4.46 pounder? Did you compete with it? What's your plan for bigger in the future?

As long as I am piling on these pestering questions...can you say how many giant (3+ LB) tomatoes you got this year?

Thanks,

Charley

Hi Charlie,

Tomatoes grown for competition are rarely if ever eaten due to the chemical load that the tomato has from the fertilizer regime one must use in order to induce such weights.

My 4.46 LB tomato (Big Zac) was ranked number 28 out of 228 entries in the Great Pumpkin Commonwealths international tomato division of their annual giant pumpkin competition.

My other two I entered, 4.03 LB Mega Marv strain ranked no. 39 and my 4.01 Mega Marv ranked number 41 in the same contest.

The only three pound example I had was 3.22 LB's also a Mega Marv.

The seeds from my 4.46 pound Big Zac have been used for trades with other giant growers including obtaining some seeds from the West Virginia state record holder which I believe was also a Big Zac coming in at 4.90 pounds.

With that being said I do have some of my 4.03 lb and 4.01 lb mega Marv seeds left for anyone who will use them along with using giant growing methods.

This next season I will be using a compost tea brewer setup along with grafting Maxifort root stock to some Big Zac and Mega Marv plants I will be using for competition.

My goal is 5.00 plus pounds so I have my work cut out for me.

Julia,

I've read some competitive growers of pumpkins and gourds inject nutrients or fillers like milk directly into the stems of the fruit as they are growing. Can you improve tomato size and weight with that type of procedure?

You also mention trading or selling seed from different strains of Big Zac. Big Zac is normally described as a hybrid. Are the weight competitive strains stabilized as OP?

Ted

[Salsacharley]

Thanks for the info Julia,

Congrats on your outstanding achievement of being in the top 13%. I am sure you will continue to grow bigger tomatoes as you advance your experience in the giant tomato game.

You have motivated me to try for a giant next year with one plant. My space for such an enterprise is limited so I won't be getting too ambitious, but the bug for this game is biting me. I have some Big Zac seeds I got last year, one of which I grew out as a regular plant this year. The tomatoes were reasonable, but far from giants, considering I grew the Big Zac plant in a bed with 17 other plants. I had a couple of fused blossoms. Next year I will dedicate special space and treatment as per Meisner's book to see what comes of it. I am a bit skeptical that my location in NM is a good place to grow giants as I am at just around 6000 ft at my garden. Even a 3 pounder would be pretty cool.

Best regards,

Charley

[PA_Julia]

Originally Posted by tedln

Julia,

I've read some competitive growers of pumpkins and gourds inject nutrients or fillers like milk directly into the stems of the fruit as they are growing. Can you improve tomato size and weight with that type of procedure?

You also mention trading or selling seed from different strains of Big Zac. Big Zac is normally described as a hybrid. Are the weight competitive strains stabilized as OP?

Ted

Injecting nutrients like milk for calcium as well as other natural and synthetic fertilizers has not been a popular thing to do for a little while now most likely due to little or no benefit.

Foliar feeding as well as stump feeding of fertilizers and other nutrients directly into the ground is the best most efficient way of uptake of said nutrients for both giant pumpkins and more importantly for us giant tomatoes.

I exclusively foliar feed all fertilizer applications via a hand held pump sprayer that one can locate at any big box store like Lowes and Home Depot.

Other than rain I always always always water with a wand set at very low pressure and or with a watering can in order to avoid splash back of debris that could be carrying disease located in compost or the top soil itself.

I will trade seed from my personal best with other giant growers to obtain seed from their personal best or other previous heavy weights.

I will give seeds of some of my other 4.00 LB plus tomatoes to someone without anyone having to trade with me if they are serious about growing that line for weight competition as opposed to growing it for quantity.

To answer your question Ted, yes there are other strains that are used for competitive growing that are classified as OP heirlooms.

I will be growing only two varieties this next season, Big Zac which includes seeds from other growers of their Big Zac heavyweights along with a strain called Mega Marv. Mega Marv was obtained from Dr. Marv Meisner the author of the book about growing giant tomatoes. He obtained them from a farmer in Canada a few years ago. The farmer did not know the name of the strain so it remains a mystery. After the first season of growing those seeds out and obtaining some very heavy tomatoes in the five pound range, he named the line Mega Marv.

Mega Marv is the strain that netted me my 4.01 "" Mother ship "" tomato that grew from a single bloom along with the 4.03 "" clover "" tomato that came from four fused blossoms that grew into looking like a four leaf clover.

[PA_Julia]

Originally Posted by Salsacharley

Thanks for the info Julia,

Congrats on your outstanding achievement of being in the top 13%. I am sure you will continue to grow bigger tomatoes as you advance your experience in the giant tomato game.

You have motivated me to try for a giant next year with one plant. My space for such an enterprise is limited so I won't be getting too ambitious, but the bug for this game is biting me. I have some Big Zac seeds I got last year, one of which I grew out as a regular plant this year. The tomatoes were reasonable, but far from giants, considering I grew the Big Zac plant in a bed with 17 other plants. I had a couple of fused blossoms. Next year I will dedicate special space and treatment as per Meisner's book to see what comes of it. I am a bit skeptical that my location in NM is a good place to grow giants as I am at just around 6000 ft at my garden. Even a 3 pounder would be pretty cool.

Best regards,

Charley

Charley, thank you so much for your kind words. I am extremely dedicated to giant tomato growing thus all of my focus goes into just one goal and that is to grow giants.
This year Indiana's tomato record was broken with a tomato weighing around three and a half pounds.

My point in telling you this is that every state has a state record for such.
Here in Pa Dr. Meisner who wrote the book that you will be using holds the state record at 6.51 lbs.

Even though you live at a higher altitude in a notably arid environment you can still grow giant tomatoes within the confines of your environment.
Don't let things like that defeat you, if there is a will there's a way Charley.

You will do just fine because after all, once you live for the process of doing something, the final outcome is just a cherry on top.

Love what you do.

[SteveS]

The winner of the Giant Tomato competition at the Indiana State Fair this year was 3.45#.
It was a little bit smaller than the Giant Popcorn Ball which was about 13 feet in diameter. I forget what it weighed!
I believe the record for Indiana is 4.2# in Valparaiso held by a member on BigPumpkins, Gritch.

[livinonfaith]

Hey, Julia! Once you have harvested the giant tomato, can you cut way back on the fertilizer, stop applying the other chemicals, and let the vine start setting tomatoes so that you can get a few eating tomatoes out of it before frost? Or do you cut out all of the growing points? (or not have enough time for them to get ripe enough by first frost?)

I mean, I love the giants and am just incredibly impressed with your work! But that little part of me that is my Grandfather's voice says, "Waste not, want not. If you can have your giant tomatoes and eat some, too, then go for it!"

[PA_Julia]

Well hello!!

I have done exactly that on the plants that, despite my best efforts did not produce the desired outcome. I was able to get one or two tomatoes off of a couple of the eighteen plants I had this past season.
Pruning a tomato plant to grow giants is quite different than pruning for quantity.

for example, I prune down to only one or two main stems and of course remove all suckers. I also top the plants at six feet.
Pruning down to what is only absolutely necessary in order for the plant to focus it's energy on the one tomato growing is not conducive to growing more than just a handful of tomatoes.
Most plants after growing a giant tend to stop producing for a period of time despite inducing bloom growth with high potassium loads.
By the time the plant recovers the growing season is usually well into August and the battle of disease is then the main topic.

The real work in growing for giants is the constant pruning which is close to a daily task at the height of the growing season.

There is always a secondary stem and a sucker that you missed the day before to be removed.

If I had the room I would also dedicate some space for growing plants for quantity but I don't so I focus on what I do best.

Originally Posted by livinonfaith

Hey, Julia! Once you have harvested the giant tomato, can you cut way back on the fertilizer, stop applying the other chemicals, and let the vine start setting tomatoes so that you can get a few eating tomatoes out of it before frost? Or do you cut out all of the growing points? (or not have enough time for them to get ripe enough by first frost?)

I mean, I love the giants and am just incredibly impressed with your work! But that little part of me that is my Grandfather's voice says, "Waste not, want not. If you can have your giant tomatoes and eat some, too, then go for it!"

[kygreg]

Julia,

What is your watering schedule and amounts?

Do you add unsulfured molasses and/or alfalfa powder or pellets to your compost tea?

Thanks

[PA_Julia]

Hi Greg,

This next season I will be starting my compost tea brewing.
The formula calls for unsulfured molasses to be added.

Concerning watering; I water approx every three days to every five days depending on the amount of rain that has fallen.

Usually I water approx. three gallons per plant per week again depending on precipitation.

Here in eastern PA one does not usually have to worry about precipitation.
It rains on an average of two or three times a week during the growing season.
Due t this I adjust my watering amounts and schedule accordingly

Originally Posted by kygreg

Julia,

What is your watering schedule and amounts?

Do you add unsulfured molasses and/or alfalfa powder or pellets to your compost tea?

Thanks

[kygreg]

Thanks Julia and congratulations on your success and dedication(success usually follows dedication and work)

I had one 3lb MegaMarv this season without special pruning, but the plant only produced about 4 tomatoes so not a lot of competition.

I had another variety that produced three 2.5 pounders from single blossoms and it had quite a few other fruits on the plant, I may try it again next years and load the potassium to it to see if I can get some megablooms.

Am going to get more serious about giant tomatoes next year. I grow 110-115 plants so no problem with having "eatin" tomatoes also, plus I try different varieties just for fun or interest.

[PA_Julia]

Thanks Greg!

I am guessing that if the plant that your three pound Mega Marv was on was pruned to grow giants I bet that tomato could have pushed another pound or so.

The Mega Marv strain is quite impressive in it's ability to grow heavy consistently, that's why I grow it.

Originally Posted by kygreg

Thanks Julia and congratulations on your success and dedication(success usually follows dedication and work)

I had one 3lb MegaMarv this season without special pruning, but the plant only produced about 4 tomatoes so not a lot of competition.

I had another variety that produced three 2.5 pounders from single blossoms and it had quite a few other fruits on the plant, I may try it again next years and load the potassium to it to see if I can get some megablooms.

Am going to get more serious about giant tomatoes next year. I grow 110-115 plants so no problem with having "eatin" tomatoes also, plus I try different varieties just for fun or interest.

[Steve Grower]

Hi Julia,

I'm just getting back into this site and would like to connect with the other giant growers. Very nice tomato!! Do you raise any other giants?
I grow heavy peppers, tall and wide headed sunflowers. I have a web site you might like, Giantgardening.com
If you want to send me a picture I'll get it on the site.
I believe I've grown the heaviest pepper ever grown. Just love the hobby.

Steve

[PA_Julia]

Hi Steve!!

The only tomatoes I grow are giants and the only vegetables I grow are tomatoes.

I also grow giant sunflowers!! That's great that you are into giant peppers and sunflowers Steve!