July 30, 2017 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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You need one sprayer dedicated to weed killer. Take a sharpie and write weed killer (roundup or whatever). Use only that one for spraying weeds and the other one can be used for everything else. Much easier than trying to clean all the residue out. I am not sure its possible anyway.
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Barbee |
July 31, 2017 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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That looks suspiciously like russet mites.
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July 31, 2017 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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July 31, 2017 | #34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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July 31, 2017 | #35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Yes, I am sorry. Mites get resistant, and are notoriously hard to get rid of.
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July 31, 2017 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,069
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Weed killer damage shows up as stunting/deformation of the newest foliage. I agree with others--that just looks like continuing mite damage to me.
It's also possible that the spray, especially if you sprayed in sun, was harsher than it would be to relatively healthier foliage because the damage that mites do totally compromises the leaf epidermis so severely. But in that case, it would only be putting leaves that were doomed anyway out of their misery. Russet mites, in particular, are notoriously difficult to control. They don't respond well to most of the more organic options except sulfur, which can't be used in hot weather because of the risk of burn to the foliage. And since they're usually a problem in places experiencing hot, rainless weather, sulfur is often a no-go. Using oils also kills one of the few organic options that can control them without hurting your plants: predatory mites. |
July 31, 2017 | #37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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I am actually a bit relieved now and it makes sense. Thanks all for your feedback!!!
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August 3, 2017 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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I can't believe the things I am encountering.. 🙁
Please look at this pic. What is it and how do I fix it? I sprayed all plants with Organicide 3 in 1 spray. Then it rained all day the next day. Now I have this black stuff growing on formerly healthy plants. |
August 3, 2017 | #39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,069
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Can you post a pic of the damage in-place on the plants? It's hard to tell what's going on from one blurry leaf.
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August 3, 2017 | #40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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It's dusk outside so will take plant pic tomorrow.
Here are better pics I hope. |
August 4, 2017 | #41 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 352
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Quote:
Take a look an page 3 and 4 of this thread and pay attention to what b54red and ginger have to say. Some day I might write a book about battles against tomato russet mites. http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...=russet&page=3 |
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August 4, 2017 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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If you keep worrying about your good bugs you won't have any live tomato plants to worry about. With mites it is an all or nothing deal in the heat we have down here. You have to stop them and you have to keep stopping them and that can result in killing some or all of the good bugs also but they will come back as will the mites.
I have only found one thing that works to really control a bad mite infestation and that is a mix of food grade DE, Permethrin, and Dawn dish washing liquid. For ten plants one gallon of mix should be sufficient for one spraying but you will need to repeat it in a few days since your mite problem is so bad. First take 2/3 to 3/4 cup of food grade DE and put it in a jug with some water and shake it well then pour it into your sprayer through a fine kitchen strainer. Then add one ounce of 10% Permethrin ( the livestock and vegetable kind not the termite kind) then add 2 tablespoons of Dawn. Then fill to the one gallon level with water and shake your sprayer well. Then spray the plant from top to bottom and make sure to spray the undersides of the leaves and the stems as well as lightly on the mulch or soil under the plants. Do this very late in the day after or at sundown to prevent killing bees and other helpful insects as well as reducing the risk of sun damage. It is a good idea to keep shaking your sprayer frequently to prevent the DE from settling and clogging your sprayer. When you are through make sure to rinse and purge your sprayer to prevent the DE from drying and clogging the line and tip. Over the following two days try to remove the dead and dying leaves and then on the third day repeat the spraying because no matter how well you sprayed you have missed some of the leaves and a lot of mites. After that keep an eye on the newer growth for any reemergence of mites and if you see any signs of them you can spray again. Get yourself a gallon of Texas Tomato Food and start feeding the plants with it every week. I think it is made right there near or in the Houston area and it is a fantastic tomato fertilizer that is well balanced and will help with fruit set in the southern heat. You might also want to check and make sure you are not dealing with fusarium wilt as well. Those Assasin bugs you are seeing may well be leaf footed bugs because they look very similar and leaf footed bugs are bad news but the spray I recommended will get rid of them quickly. Look closely at the back legs of the bugs that you think are Assassin bugs and if the lower section of the back legs is wider than the rest of the legs then you are dealing with leaf footed bugs. Also for later reference you can use just one Tablespoon of Permethrin in this mix if the mite problem isn't so bad. It looks like you have a very bad infestation and you may be dealing with both russet mites as well as spider mites so you really have to get after them fast and hard or they will definitely destroy your plants. I have already sprayed for mites three times this year but they have not been my worst problem this year like they were last year. My biggest problem this year has been foliage diseases. You can add a copper fungicide into the pesticide mix and kill two birds with one stone. It does save some time and work and in this heat that is always good. Good luck. You are going to need it as bad as your infestation looks. It reminds me of the way they attacked my plants last year. Bill |
August 4, 2017 | #43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Ok on it.. Any concerns spraying the mite juice (DE, Permethrin,Dawn) and the Bleach Spray (Clorox) together or a day apart? I will focus on the mite juice tomorrow, but feel I need to be doing bleach spray also... i plan to rotate them every weekend through August /September.
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August 4, 2017 | #44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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I had ordered the Permethrin on Monday and just discoverex that I ordered the termite strength (36%). I assume I can use 1/2 ounce per gallon and be ok?
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August 4, 2017 | #45 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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Bleach spray will have no effect on your insect problems. It cleanses your plants from molds and fungi. Bleach spray should always be followed up with either daconil or copper as a preventative 24 hours after the bleach spray for mold/fungi.
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