August 5, 2017 | #46 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Understood. I want to use the bleach spray prevention for fungus diseases. The mite juice is for mites and my current priority. Bill has recipes for both but I am thinking of combining both into a single spray. Adding the Clorox to the mite mix (basically DE, Permethrin, Dawn, 5 oz Clorox, and gallon of water). This should address both concerns in a single spray.. People have mixed Clorox and Permethrin to treat Scabies (per internet) and the DE for swimming pools is actually sold by Clorox and has bleach in it. So I am thinking all together will address it all.
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August 5, 2017 | #47 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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August 5, 2017 | #48 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
The damage from the mites is going to cost you a lot of foliage. I think using the bleach spray right now might cost you more foliage than you can afford to lose on some of those plants. I am a firm believer from long experience in the diluted bleach spray for foliage diseases but there are times when it is not advisable because of damaged leaves that don't necessarily have diseases. I really think you should wait on the bleach spray until you get your mite problem under control. You might even find that removing the mite problem along with a little copper spray will negate the need for the bleach spray. Bill |
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August 5, 2017 | #49 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Thanks Bill
I will go get 10% today and use the 36% around my foundation or see if I can return it. At this point i may just pull out the damaged plants. Only the tops have green leaves with the bottom 4 feet stripped bear of stems. But the tops look good and have blooms. This has become a personal battle I guess and I want to win. I do have younger fall plants about a foot tall that are healthier so I will make sure those are my first focus for both sprays... Thanks everyone for the help. You can tell I am new to this hobby, but hey having a blast learning! |
August 5, 2017 | #50 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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I've used the 36% without issues, just double check your numbers. V1C1=V2C2
I would 86 those poor plants, concentrate on cukes for now and use your new arsenal to protect your fall babies from day one. Do not use the all in one mix, its gonna be a lot of reactive players in there. And finally, use an N95 at the very least. Last edited by Gerardo; August 5, 2017 at 11:35 AM. |
August 5, 2017 | #51 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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I agree with Bill. Use the copper instead of the bleach as a preventive measure. Bleach only kills the molds while it is still wet. Copper has a lasting effect. Plus copper is is not nearly as reactive.
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~ Patti ~ |
August 5, 2017 | #52 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,255
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Quote:
Yes, trash the plants to give the new plants a clean start. At this point you would need to use a couple of different (and expensive) miticides in rotation to eliminate the mites. And, after nuking the plants, you probably wouldn't want to eat the fruit. Also agree about using a respirator when spraying chlorine bleach. A full face respirator outfitted with multi-gas cartidges will protect your eyes in addition to your nose and lungs. Steve Last edited by Heritage; August 5, 2017 at 01:19 PM. |
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August 5, 2017 | #53 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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August 5, 2017 | #54 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ohio
Posts: 4,350
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never mind. it won't let me delete my thought and it isn't needed.
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carolyn k Last edited by clkeiper; August 5, 2017 at 09:30 PM. |
August 6, 2017 | #55 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Steve |
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August 6, 2017 | #56 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,140
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Bill or anyone, I have a question about using Serenade and a copper fungicide. Could they be mixed together or should they just be used alternately? I'm always a bit uneasy with the copper but Serenade doesn't seem to have adverse reactions. Less to worry about applying it. I tried bleach but think it was too strong and I burnt a few leaves.
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August 6, 2017 | #57 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
I used Serenade for two years and had the worst foliage diseases ever those two years of trying to go totally organic. It was just totally incapable of controlling the foliage diseases down here. It might work up there where I am sure the disease pressure is far less. Copper at the lower recommended dose is easy to use and I have seen no harmful affects from it even on the smallest seedlings. I use the Southern Ag brand of copper fungicide at the rate of one Tbs to the gallon along with a bit of Dawn as a spreader sticker. Bill |
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August 6, 2017 | #58 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
Last edited by RayR; August 6, 2017 at 02:34 PM. |
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August 7, 2017 | #59 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston Zone 9A
Posts: 132
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Also I read older blogs about using sulfur spray but is appears the experience has moved past this approach to Permethrin, DE, spray?
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August 7, 2017 | #60 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: san antonio, texas
Posts: 174
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I have very good results with sulfur but you can't use it once temps get above 90. Which is a lot of days here.!
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