Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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April 4, 2009 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 172
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Leaf Problem
I've been to the Texas A&M Problem Solver site, but do not have the trained eyes to figure out exactly what the problem is on my New Big Dwarf. I noticed yellowing leaves on a lower leaf last Monday, cut the stem off and started applications of Ortho Garden Disease Control. The plant is just now setting fruit, but the leaf problem is spreading rapidly. Thanks for any help you may have to offer.
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April 4, 2009 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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Hopefully the Daconil applications will slow it down enough for you to still harvest. Kind of looks like blight to me and I seem to have the same thing happen when I have grown NBD. Regular apps of Daconil worked well
I usually remove the effected foliage
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Duane Jones Last edited by duajones; April 4, 2009 at 07:11 PM. |
April 16, 2009 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 172
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Thanks Duane,
The Chlorothalonil seems to have slowed whatever it is that is attacking my NBD. Out of the gate I was impressed with New Big Dwarf, but it seems to be putting all its energy into one big fruit. I have hopes that a small plant like this can solve some of my space problem, but a couple of fruit from a plant just does not seem worth while. I'll judge it in a couple of months. Ken |
April 16, 2009 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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Overall productivity was the one of the drawback for NBD as well as the thick foliage which seemed to make it more susceptible to foliage problems. I did like the flavor of this variety very much. Old fashioned tomato flavor IMO
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Duane Jones |
April 18, 2009 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Ken, good luck on getting the foliar fungal disease under control.
With the rugose/tree-types, I have noticed that they can sometimes be a little more susceptible to it in our climate, and your area is even more humid than mine is. I figure it is because of the thicker, crinkled foliage. I've found some light, selective pruning can be helpful with these types in helping to keep them healthy. Any foliage below first fruit set (unless it is way up on the plant, otherwise just remove much of the first 6-12" or so), and any foliage that is obviously cramped, twisted or rolled up. Basically, I just open things up a wee bit for some decent air flow. |
April 19, 2009 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 172
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Thanks Suze,
After two days of rain totaling a bit less than 5 inches I went out this morning to apply a fresh coat of Daconil. The leaf problem on my NBD got worse with the rain and I found leaf miner damage on all four of my plants. Yes, one NBD plant represents 25% of my plantings. I hit all the plants with Spinosad for the tunnel makers. Let that dry and gave them a good bath of Daconil. The Daconil has been very effective at halting the progress of whatever is attacking the poor little thing. The NBD is obviously stressed and is aborting blossoms. It does have one beautiful fruit set. I had high hopes for that little guy and gave it my best garden spot, but am used to the tribulations of tomato growing in Houston. Ken |
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