New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 23, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 492
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Anyone ever use Soil Blockers?
I just saw this today. Has anyone tried to use these? If so, what do you think of them?
http://www.groworganic.com/item_GP04..._4_Block.html# In Europe, free-standing blocks of soil, rather than peat pots or seed flats, are almost universally used for starting vegetable and flower seeds. No containers are needed. To make the soil blocks, just fill a soil blocker with thoroughly moistened potting mix (Quickroot Soilless Potting Mix is perfect), set the blocker in a seed flat and release. With one stroke you'll create multiple soil blocks, each with a small depression in the top, for the seed. When the seedlings are ready, you can plant them in the ground or bring them along further by dropping the soil blocks into openings in the tops of larger soil blocks, as described below. It is important to keep the soil blocks well watered with a fine mist (see Fogg-It Nozzles, in Watering Supplies). Ladbrooke Soil Blockers are imported from England and are the highest quality on the market. Watch out for cheap imitations that stick, break or go out of alignment soon after purchase. |
March 23, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
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I have used them-didnt do well for me, since I am sure I overwatered them and they broke down-probably misting them would have prevented that.
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Michael |
March 23, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 492
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Thanks. Interesting. They do mention about the misting. I've always bottom watered. So I'm not exactly sure how the plants would get enough water with just mist. I'm curious, but not sure I want to experiment on my dear tomato seedlings!
Anyone else want to weigh in? |
March 23, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
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Thats what I was doing-bottom watering, which is what I always do. I think you would have to make sure that someone is around a lot to mist sufficiently after they germinate. I suppose that if you put them under a cover until germination, you could avoid misting.
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Michael |
March 24, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Appalachian Mountains NC
Posts: 151
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I considered buying one. It seems like a great concept and Eliot Coleman uses them. But in the end I was scared off by the very particular recipe for starting mix that has to be JUST RIGHT for it to work.
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March 24, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: St Charles, IL zone 5a
Posts: 142
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An automated mist system would be nice (probably necessary), but even that can keep them too wet if not adjusted properly. I have used a system for cuttings that gives an 8 second mist every 10 minutes or so, depending on relative humidity. But the point would to make life easier, right? I would like to see someone's setup who knows how to do it successfully.
A plug tray (I have seen the root- pruning type with 2 inch cells, which I am guessing is an advantage of growing this way) is more useful for someone like me who checks once, maybe twice per day. They can be reused, too. If they were covered that would work well for germination, but they would need to be uncovered once they are up. |
March 25, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Danbury, CT
Posts: 492
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I came across this website:
http://www.pottingblocks.com/ If you scroll down to the bottom of the page, there is a youtube video where he shows how to use it. He advises to use bottom watering. He has a lot of information on his site. He does say the potting mix is important and gives a recipe to make your own, but he also sells premade potting mix so you don't have to make your own. |
May 11, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spokane, WA (5b)
Posts: 1
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Hi I'm a noob I'm surprised there's not more discussion on this forum about blockers. I bought the 2 inch blocker this spring and started my tomatoes in them. I was blown away at how quick they were to make, way quicker than my usual filling of keg cups. The tomatoes did great in them. The one thing I was surprised about was that I was able to make successful blocks my first time. I used one of the mix recipes from pottingblocks.com and it worked pretty well. The trick is using pretty sloppy (wet) mix because I think the water helps the soil compact more and the fibers of the peat align better if that makes sense. I did one batch of soil that was too dry and those ones crumbled as soon as I watered them. I use bottom watering and other than those ones I had no problems with disintegrating, maybe a few splitting but that was a minor problem.
I didn't buy the bigger size because it was so expensive, I ended up making my own out of PVC pipe. Unfortunately, the bigger size I couldn't use to make a 2inch "divit" in, I couldn't compact it properly so I ended up just potting my maters up into keg cups. However, for germination and the initial growth the blocks couldn't be beat. The 4 inch blocker I made from PVC pipe turned out to be perfect for starting my melons & pumpkins, so it wasn't a waste. I may someday decide to buy the ladbrooke 4" blocker because it would be so simple to make a 4inch block that has a space in the middle for my 2inch soil block with a mater sticking out of it... but in the meantime, this actually did speed up my planting. previously I just started my seeds in rows on flats then I'd ♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫♪♫ them out into cups. Having the 4 inchh blocker with the 2 inch divit would also be nice in terms of not needing any containers. Supposedly the lack of container causes the roots to "air prune" which minimizes transplant shock but that's yet to be seen since this is my first year. Oh and here's a link to my blog page about the big blocker I made, it also shows a pic of the flat of 2inch blocks. This whole post sounds kind of spammy... but it's not, I promise! I was just really impressed with them. http://uncledutchfarms.blogspot.com/...l-blocker.html |
February 10, 2011 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I've used soil blockers for a number of years and like them a whole lot. I have the mini-blocker, the 2" and the big 4". They're integral in the sense that seeds started in the mini-cube can be placed in the 2" and then placed in the 4".
As others have pointed out, the soil mix is key - though, once you get used to making it, it's pretty straight-forward. I've found the key is to make sure the mix is plenty wet - this will keep the blocks from breaking apart. Most of the water is pressed out in the block-making process. I like to let the blocks sit for a day before using them, that allows them to dry a bit which further solidifies them. One note of caution: Since the roots grow to the edge of the block and then self-prune, transplants seem to be slightly more vulnerable to very cold temps at the hardening-off stage. I had damage on many tomato seedlings in the 4" blocks whereas the same type/age transplants in 4" plastic pots were ok. It happened on a night where we were right on the edge of frost. |
February 10, 2011 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kankakee, IL
Posts: 59
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Just posted some really relevant info about soil blocks in the 'Espoma Post'.
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March 16, 2011 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1
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soil blockers...
New here and happy to see this thread.
I just started using soil blockers this year. I found that not only did the soil mix have to be pretty wet, but I had to "charge" (pack) the blockers several times to get the soil really, really compressed. I think that makes a big difference in how well the blocks hold together. It wasn't hard to do, and I liked doing the blockers way better than filling all those little cells. I'm bottom watering. I placed capillary mats below the blocks, and left one end of the flat "empty" for watering. So far, so good. I've had good germination rates. I planted 5 days ago... 21 varieties of heirloom tomatoes (I'll be using some plants for a community garden project, and some for a local plant sale fundraiser) and so far all but 2 of the varieties have germinated. (Still waiting on Alicante and Persimmon.) One of the interesting things I read was to just drop the seeds in the little impression (I'm using the 2" blocks) and not to cover them with soil -- the artilce I read said they'd be stronger plants as a result. That made me a little uneasy, but keeping them covered with black plastic kept the moisture in. Once I started to see sprouts, I uncovered them. The nice thing about not covering the seeds is that I can really monitor what's going on and what my germination rate is. If I don't see sprouts on those last two in another 5 days, I'll drop a couple more seeds in of a different variety and try again. So far, I'm a fan. I love not having the plastic cells, and feel like the blocks are holding well. I purchased a seed starting mix from Pottingblocks.com. It came in TWO days. I was impressed! I did add about 20 percent worm castings, even though the mix did have worm castings in it. |
January 10, 2012 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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I'm new here at Tville as well, and am also a bit surprised that not more has been posted about soil blocks. Last year was my second year using them, and I am totally sold! I start tomato seeds directly in the 2-inch blocks, but many other veggies I start in the micro blocks, because I could fit about a gazillion onto the heat mats. Then they drop right into the 2-inch blocks after germination. I get my blocking mix from Vermont Compost - it's the Fort V I use:
http://www.vermontcompost.com/fortvee.html I bottom water, and found that using the web trays from Johnny's lets me briefly dip the trays full of blocks into a regular 1020 tray half full of water for a few minutes to soak up the moisture, and that would last for days, until the plants got pretty big. Some tomato plants I potted up into 4' pots for sale at the farmer's market, but for my own, I just transplanted the 2" blocks right into the garden. Nothing could be easier! I used a bulb planter to dig the hole, dropped the block in as deep as I could get it and still have leaves showing, and filled it it. Because of the fertility of the blocking mix, I never had to add anything but water to my seedlings, and they were the healthiest plants I have ever grown. I love to play with blocks! |
January 13, 2012 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Also new here. Just finishing an Earthtainer build and I too have the Ladbrooke soil blockers. They are going to be put into service either this weekend or next. I will report back, hopefully with pics.....
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April 13, 2012 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Really late follow up with some pics. These work great!
Misting works fine for the mini's. The 2 in and the 4 in , I bottom and top watered at various times, depending on how much I had neglected them. Potential for some erosion with top watering, but it didnt seem to be a big deal. I got my stuff, including potting mix for the mini 20 and the larger blocks from Jason Beam at pottingblocks.com as well. Google him and you will find some good videos on block making. I recommend watching if you are using them for the first time. Takes a few tries to get it down, but not much of a curve. He has recipes to make your own mix on his website if you are so inclined. The mini 20 needs a much finer mix than the larger blocks. |
April 14, 2012 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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The mini 20 needs a much finer mix than the larger blocks.[/QUOTE]
Yes, it does. I just run my regular mix through a sifter to get out the twigs and chunks, and block away. This year I am trying a cross between Craig's dense planting and soil blocks - I just take the seedlings from the dense germination cups (found out that recycled K-cups work quite nicely, after I've fed the used coffee grounds to my worms and yanked out the filter) and gently but firmly press them into the 3/4" hole in 2" blocks, daub them in with some wet blocker soil, and watch them take off!
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