General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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April 19, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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I am preparing my large buckets for tomatoes and ---
In the past I used miracle grow moisture control or potting soils. The recession has put an end to such grandiose plans. What I am trying this year is a mixture of light top soil sold by Home Depot. Its is light and fluffy and I am mixing it with a twenty lb bad of either hydrolized or composted cow manure. I'll also add some fertilizer pellets. How does this sound?
Elliot Long Island, New York |
April 20, 2010 | #2 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a
Posts: 421
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Quote:
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Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes .......... |
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April 21, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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I have used the HD "composted steer manure" that comes in
the 1 cu ft bags. Results vary from one year to the next. It is 1/2 or more wood waste. I add a cup of dolomite and a cup of fertilizer per bag in a container. I have not mixed it with top soil in a container, just used it straight from the bag. Seems like it would lose too much large pore air space mixing it with topsoil in a container (compresses over the summer from rain and watering), but feel free to experiment and see for yourself.
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April 22, 2010 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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What type of fertilizer would you use? Isn't the manure the fertilizer? Perlite serves what purpose? thanks Elliot |
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April 22, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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April 24, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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The perlite serves the purpose of providing air space in the
container mix and maintaining good drainage. The HD composted steer manure does not have enough fertilizer value by itself, but the chunks of wood in it seem to provide enough air space, at least for the first year. Bacteria digesting carbon in the wood waste use up all of the nitrogen in the manure by themselves. (It is not like "bagged manure", more like what you would get sweeping out a barn that used sawmill waste for bedding for the animals.) I used a handful of 4-4-4 organic fertilizer, plus a handful of sul-po-mag (slow release sulfur-potassium-magnesium) for fertilizer with it. Something like Tomato Tone or Garden Tone would work about the same. The comments about bagged manure needing to be used with care to avoid burning the plants would be true if that is all it was, manure. I remember bagged chicken manure from decades ago that was like that. It was all manure, with a fine-grained physical structure, and you would use it like any other bag of fertilizer, chemical or organic (a handful or two per plant). The "composted manure" that they have on the shelf at HD is not like that. It is more a "soil amendment" intended to loosen up clay soils in garden beds and add some organic matter than it is a fertilizer. edit: It only costs around $1.00-1.20 a bag. Get one, dump it out in a wheelbarrow, and you can see for yourself how much wood is in it.
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-- alias Last edited by dice; April 24, 2010 at 01:05 PM. Reason: addenda |
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