General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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June 8, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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I am at a loss
Most of my tomatoes are in 18 gallon tote containers. A number of the (still very green) young fruit are getting BER. This is happening on different varieties. I've done some reading and its actually made me more confused since there seems to be so many things that can cause BER: too little water, too much water, calcium, too much nitrogen....
We had heavy rains so I was conservative with my watering but I guess Im going to try and water more but its hard to know how much to water. Anyone have any advice for me? After all this hard work its very discouraging to loose tomatoes to BER. |
June 8, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
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You can foliar spray with calcium nitrate or calcium chloride 2 or 3 times a week at a solution of 4 tablespoons a gallon. If it gets 90+ degrees, use calcium nitrate instead of calcium chloride.
Make sure your soil ph is around 6.5 Make sure you're not overfertilizing. Make sure you don't overwater. |
June 8, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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June 8, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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See this link on BER solutions.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...&highlight=ber I am using Calcium Nitrate I bought on Ebay ($15.00 for 5 pounds delivered) and I am VERY happy with the plant's growth so far. Tomatoes still too small to detect any BER, but when I look at plant health and vigor, I will be a long term trial user of the Calcium Nitrate "snack". Raybo |
June 8, 2010 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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June 8, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
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How do I know if I am overwatering or over fertalizing?
You could purchase a moisture meter. You could also stick your finger in the soil a couple few inches, if it's dry a few inches down water, if not, dont. You could wait until the plants droop a little--not wilted-- and water then. You can get your soil tested @ your local agricultural extension office for cheap; You could buy a soil test kit at one of the big box stores or garden centers for a rough idea of your N P K values. It would also depend on if you're using organics, slow release, or water soluble like Miracle Grow combined with how often you water. If it's water soluble, dilute it proportionately with how how often you water. All things considered, the BER should go away once the plants get larger. |
June 9, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Qweniden, are your container SWC's (Self Watering Containers) as Raybo's or are they normal with holes in the bottom. Ami
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June 9, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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June 9, 2010 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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June 9, 2010 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Millbrae, CA
Posts: 15
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Ray,
I have a small supply of calcium nitrate. How do you use this product. The directions I have, is to use 1 tsp/gal of water. Should I follow this and just pour some through the fill tube or pour on top of my tainers? Thanks for your suggestion Jim |
June 9, 2010 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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OK, What did you use for a planting mix (Aggregate) in your container? Did you add any fertilizer or calcium supplements to the aggregate? Since your containers are open (not SWC's) don't get to concerned about over watering. Over fertilization is not a biggy either as everytime you water the plant or it gets rained on the ferts are going to leech from the aggregate. If anything your going to have to supplement the ferts during the course of the growing season. Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
June 9, 2010 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Raybo |
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June 9, 2010 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 942
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Havn't had to many problems with BER. I don't add any calcium additives and have had good luck with miracle grow potting soil. I don't believe overwatering will cause BER. I believe it is inconsistent or uneven watering of a pot. Once the plants are big and bearing lots of fruit, you certainly are going to have to water an 18 gallon container every day in Sacramento. To give an example of how it is difficult to overwater a good sized potted mater plant, when it is hot, i'll explain. Right now I have reservoirs(Buckets, bowl, kiddy pools) underneath my plant. When I leave town I soak the plant and significantly fill the reservoir, to the maybe 3-4 inches above the drainage hole on the bottom. In a few days the plants will exhaust all of the water. If done occasionally this seems to have no adverse effects. Although you have to be careful with concentrating fert in the reservoir. I also would try not to do this when the fruits start to color up, as to not dilute the flavor or encourage splitting.
Vince
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June 9, 2010 | #14 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 267
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Just had to pull 5 Purple Russian fruits that had BER This sucks |
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June 9, 2010 | #15 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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My take on container growing (which is mostly what I am doing with tomatoes) - you can't over water them if you are using good soil less mix augmented with compost, giving good drainage. You certainly can underwater them, though...My experience is that if you let the plants visibly wilt when actively developing fruit will bring on the BER. I am using 10-15 gallon containers for indeterminates, 5 gallon for dwarfs - and in the heat of the summer with mature, fruiting plants, I am watering twice a day - morning and late afternoon - until the water is coming out the bottom.
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