Who Are These Bad Boys - And How Do I Get Rid Of Them??

rnewste · July 17, 2010

Been growing tomatoes in this location of N. California for 25+ years, and have never seen these guys before.

Here is a magnified view. One looks to have wings:

They seem to be leaving a sugar crystal-like substance, although I see no leaf damage whatsoever:

The Sevin spray doesn't seem to inhibit them, so I think it is on to Permethrin for a spray this evening. Any idea what these are??

Raybo

Talon1189 · July 17, 2010

Raybo.....looks like "whiteflys" http://www.gardeners.com/on/demandwa...1&utm_term=PDD

shatbox · July 17, 2010

Second Talon. Had a rough season a year or two back when "giant whiteflies" took over a hibiscus and moved into my tomatoes. I had to pull the hibiscus but for the tomatoes sprayed w/ neem and dusted with diatomaceous earth. The yellow traps worked but I think I didn't catch them with the tray soon enough.

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7400.html

-sBox

rnewste · July 17, 2010

Turns out, what I've got are Psyllids, which until an hour ago - - I never even knew how to spell them.

Here is a segment from a Colorado Ag Publication:

''''Control

Because these Insects are so small, damage to tomatoes or potatoes frequently occurs before the problem is detected. It is important to be able to identify potato/tomato psyllids so developing problems can be detected and treated in time. One of the most important means of identification is the psyllid sugar that is excreted by the insect and collects on leaves. Psyllid problems do not occur every season. In some areas of the state, Extension pest alerts provide warnings of psyllid outbreaks.
Homeowners not able to properly identify psyllids may wish to routinely treat susceptible plants. Protectant treatments may be needed from when plants are 6 inches tall until midsummer. Well-established plants with abundant foliage usually can tolerate late season infestations with little yield loss.
Among insecticides available to homeowners, products containing permethrin or esfenvalerate are most effective when used at rates labelled for other potato/tomato insects. Alternately dusts of sulfur can provide control. Regardless, application must be thorough, covering the underside of lower leaves where the insects tend to concentrate. Insecticidal soaps (two percent concentration) may also be useful, although control is more erratic.
Some tomato varieties appear to be partially resistant to potato/tomato psyllids. Increased hairiness of the leaves is reported to make plants less favored by psyllids."""

I've got a bottle of Permethrin stored away, so time to pull it out for a treatment this evening. For the past 5 years I've been hit with intense Powdery Leaf Mold / Mildew, and this Season for the first time, I didn't have a trace of this, and thought I was "home-free". Guess not!

Raybo

Suze · July 22, 2010

Ray - Psyllids can be hard to kill, as I'm sure you've figured out. My first experience with them was several years ago. I had a heck of a time with them on coleus (I used to really be into collecting coleus and propagating it from cuttings) and I also had a hard time with them on Fatsia Japonica, which would have been a really nice evergreen planting for the area if not for its suspectibility to the darned psyllids.

Here, I only have problems with them on tomatoes in the fall, but they can eventually end up causing a fair amount of damage and loss of production if not properly dealt with.

For ornamentals, systemics can help a little (like Orthonex) but it's not an option for edibles.

Sevin (carbaryl) is a waste of time. Has little or no effect on most sucking insects, plus tends to kill off any potential predators they might have.

Based on my experience dealing with psyllids, here is what I would suggest trying.

1) Blast the heck out of your plants with a soap spray. Use an Ortho Dial and Spray sprayer or another similar hose end type sprayer because it will deliver good water pressure and also quickly coat all surfaces of the plants. (Hand held / battery / pump sprayers are great for a lot of things, but this is not one of them - you want really good water pressure.)

Use one tablespoon per gallon setting, then go back and spray again for good measure. Make sure you get every single surface of every single plant. Spray in morning or evening of course, not in direct sun. You can rinse off the soap spray a few minutes later if you're concerned about photosensitivity in a warm climate.

2) Get some Surround crop protectant (kaolin clay), and in the next day or so after the soap spray, lay down a good solid coating on all surfaces of the problem plants. After the first coat dries, it doesn't hurt to go back and do a second coat in case you missed any areas. One cup to 1.5 cups per gallon of water (if it's really bad, I'd use 1.5 cups). For this, you'll want to use one of your hand held sprayers.

The soap spray is to run off or kill as many as you can, the Surround coating is then applied as a deterrent.

This is the best way I've found to help deal with these things - hope it helps.

July 17, 2010	#1
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Who Are These Bad Boys - And How Do I Get Rid Of Them?? Been growing tomatoes in this location of N. California for 25+ years, and have never seen these guys before. Here is a magnified view. One looks to have wings: They seem to be leaving a sugar crystal-like substance, although I see no leaf damage whatsoever: The Sevin spray doesn't seem to inhibit them, so I think it is on to Permethrin for a spray this evening. Any idea what these are?? Raybo

July 17, 2010	#2
Talon1189 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a Posts: 421	Raybo.....looks like "whiteflys" http://www.gardeners.com/on/demandwa...1&utm_term=PDD __________________ Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes ..........

July 17, 2010	#4
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Psyllids Turns out, what I've got are Psyllids, which until an hour ago - - I never even knew how to spell them. Here is a segment from a Colorado Ag Publication: ''''Control Because these Insects are so small, damage to tomatoes or potatoes frequently occurs before the problem is detected. It is important to be able to identify potato/tomato psyllids so developing problems can be detected and treated in time. One of the most important means of identification is the psyllid sugar that is excreted by the insect and collects on leaves. Psyllid problems do not occur every season. In some areas of the state, Extension pest alerts provide warnings of psyllid outbreaks. Homeowners not able to properly identify psyllids may wish to routinely treat susceptible plants. Protectant treatments may be needed from when plants are 6 inches tall until midsummer. Well-established plants with abundant foliage usually can tolerate late season infestations with little yield loss. Among insecticides available to homeowners, products containing permethrin or esfenvalerate are most effective when used at rates labelled for other potato/tomato insects. Alternately dusts of sulfur can provide control. Regardless, application must be thorough, covering the underside of lower leaves where the insects tend to concentrate. Insecticidal soaps (two percent concentration) may also be useful, although control is more erratic. Some tomato varieties appear to be partially resistant to potato/tomato psyllids. Increased hairiness of the leaves is reported to make plants less favored by psyllids.""" I've got a bottle of Permethrin stored away, so time to pull it out for a treatment this evening. For the past 5 years I've been hit with intense Powdery Leaf Mold / Mildew, and this Season for the first time, I didn't have a trace of this, and thought I was "home-free". Guess not! Raybo

July 17, 2010	#3
shatbox Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Los Angeles County, CA Posts: 258	Second Talon. Had a rough season a year or two back when "giant whiteflies" took over a hibiscus and moved into my tomatoes. I had to pull the hibiscus but for the tomatoes sprayed w/ neem and dusted with diatomaceous earth. The yellow traps worked but I think I didn't catch them with the tray soon enough. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7400.html -sBox

July 22, 2010	#5
Suze Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3,027	Ray - Psyllids can be hard to kill, as I'm sure you've figured out. My first experience with them was several years ago. I had a heck of a time with them on coleus (I used to really be into collecting coleus and propagating it from cuttings) and I also had a hard time with them on Fatsia Japonica, which would have been a really nice evergreen planting for the area if not for its suspectibility to the darned psyllids. Here, I only have problems with them on tomatoes in the fall, but they can eventually end up causing a fair amount of damage and loss of production if not properly dealt with. For ornamentals, systemics can help a little (like Orthonex) but it's not an option for edibles. Sevin (carbaryl) is a waste of time. Has little or no effect on most sucking insects, plus tends to kill off any potential predators they might have. Based on my experience dealing with psyllids, here is what I would suggest trying. 1) Blast the heck out of your plants with a soap spray. Use an Ortho Dial and Spray sprayer or another similar hose end type sprayer because it will deliver good water pressure and also quickly coat all surfaces of the plants. (Hand held / battery / pump sprayers are great for a lot of things, but this is not one of them - you want really good water pressure.) Use one tablespoon per gallon setting, then go back and spray again for good measure. Make sure you get every single surface of every single plant. Spray in morning or evening of course, not in direct sun. You can rinse off the soap spray a few minutes later if you're concerned about photosensitivity in a warm climate. 2) Get some Surround crop protectant (kaolin clay), and in the next day or so after the soap spray, lay down a good solid coating on all surfaces of the problem plants. After the first coat dries, it doesn't hurt to go back and do a second coat in case you missed any areas. One cup to 1.5 cups per gallon of water (if it's really bad, I'd use 1.5 cups). For this, you'll want to use one of your hand held sprayers. The soap spray is to run off or kill as many as you can, the Surround coating is then applied as a deterrent. This is the best way I've found to help deal with these things - hope it helps.