Growing in 5 gallon buckets, help

Andy Lappin · October 29, 2010

I am new to this, I live in southwest florida and have planted big boy tomatoes in plastic 5 gallon buckets with many holes drilled in them for drainage. I went to Home depot and got organic soil, planted my maters and they did well for a rew weeks, got small tomatoes, they started wilting so I watered more, I stuck my hand down in the soil and it is like soaked in the bottoms, I think they got to much water. I also noted that the soil was very hot. They re in direct sunlite. What mistakes have I made, is it the soil, the buckets, the drainage etc?
Thanks
Andy

FILMNET · October 29, 2010

I put straw on the tops.

recruiterg · October 29, 2010

You shouldn't use soil in a 5 gallon bucket. Use soilless potting mix. Some here recommend a mixture of 3 parts potting mix, 2 parts bark fines, 1 part perlite. Mulch the tops and only water when they dry out. Too much water can kill the plants as easily as too little water, although in FL, you might need to water every day and perhaps twice a day if it is super hot in the summer. I think some FL growers might help you out, but you might need a screen if direct sunlight is too hot (not clear if you are talking about now or mid-summer).

sprtsguy76 · October 29, 2010

I agree with Duane about using 'real soil' in containers, its a nightmare waiting to happen. I like to use a combo of 5 parts fir or pine bark fines, 1-2 part peat and 1-2 part perlite. Keep your containers out of direct sun, whatever you have to do, I use white plastic and line the outside of my containers to block the sun. Burying them in the ground is even a more cooler option if you will. Stick a wick into one of those many holes at the bottom of your container, it will help trick the pertched water to drain down the wick. Good luck.

Damon

ContainerTed · October 29, 2010

Use NO products that have the word "soil" in their name or contents. "MIX" is the only thing to put in buckets. Also, get some shade on the buckets themselves. You must be concerned with the temperature of the growing medium. Water only once a day on average days with average humidity, etc. Your holes in the buckets should be 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter, especially on the bottom.

You want the growing medium (mix) to be damp, but not wet. You want it to contain some "voids" - small air spaces that provide oxygen to the roots. Totally WET mix doesn't have many air spaces. Think about beach sand just outside the damp effect of the waves. It will feel damp, but is well drained. That and slightly drier is what you're looking for.

Because you will be washing out many of the nutrients, you must add them back with fertilizers and such more frequently than for an in-ground garden.

And when you get all of the stuff about the growing medium correct, then return here and we can discuss the numerous critters that will want to chomp on your healthy plants. Then, it's on to "Pathogens 101".

Take care

Ted

amideutch · October 30, 2010

Roger on the Growing Mix. Make sure your containers are white or wrap white styrofoam sheet around them to block the sunlight. You don't need a lot of drainage holes maybe 3 or 4 the size Ted mentioned. You can make them on the side of the container maybe 1" above the bottom to form a small reservoir at the bottom.
You want a mix that will drain well and add perlite which will help with the drainage and water retention of the mix so it won't dry out to quickly.
Nutrient supplements will be needed during the course of the growing season as well as disease control. Ami

dice · October 30, 2010

Probably everything that you wanted to know about container
mix and more:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/cn004

The diagnostics described in the document below are
commercial operation oriented, but you may as well save
the link, in case you ever want to know for sure:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/cn002

amideutch · October 31, 2010

In fact, get some 26 qt. styrofoam ice chests and use those for the containers. They should work perfect for your location. And they are inexpensive. Here are the ones I use in my make shift greenhouse. First picture is a couple weeks after plant out and the second picture is the same plants a month later. If you look closely in the second picture you can see the twine I suspend from overhead down to the base of the plant and attach clips from the twine to the plant for support. Ami

fortyonenorth · October 31, 2010

Ami - can you comment on what type of nutrients you add and how often you add them during the growing season? It looks like you're growing one plant per ice chest, is that right?

amideutch · October 31, 2010

fortyonenorth, yes one plant per container. I add organic fertilizer to the aggregate plus lime and at plant out I use Mycorrhiza and Actinovate mixed in water and dip the plants into it and plant them in the containers.
During the course of the season I use BioBizz BioGrow which is a liquid concentrate at 50ml per 10 liters. This year I added Biota Max to the pre-plant dip.
Ami (fortyninenorth)

Andy Lappin · October 31, 2010

Thanks all, looks like I may have to start over, anyway I can transplant the good ones I have left into a better potting mix now without killing them off? The plants are 2 foot tall and have several tomatoes on some already.
Andy

b54red · October 31, 2010

I grow in very hot conditions as well and besides not using soil and mulching the tops I add some water holding crystals. They cut down on the frequency of watering and help maintain a more even moisture level in the containers. I mainly used plain old Miracle Grow to fertilize every week or two. I also added a small amount of cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, basic slag and mushroom compost when mixing up my planting mix.

MargeH · October 31, 2010

Andy,

I grow in containers in your area. I started with 5 gal pots but found them to be too small except for my dwarf plants and a few others like Sophie's Choice. I wanted to grow heirloom indeterminates and 5 gal containers aren't large enough for those plants. I have graduated to 40 gal. pots and I use the large tomato towers from Gardener's Supply for my support. I also only use a medium that says "mix" on the bag.

If you want to invest a little more money, you might want to check out the Earthbox store in Ellenton. I have two of those and have had good luck with them. They offer demonstrations of how to plant the Earthbox and sell plants at the store. It is very near the Gamble Mansion off US 301. They were developed by a Manatee tomato grower and are now used by people around the world.

Marjorie

lowlylowlycook · October 31, 2010

You might want to read through the Florida Growers Thread for ideas if you haven't yet.

beefyboy · November 1, 2010

I have 28 earthboxes myself and have used them since about 1992. They are the best bet for Florida growing that I have seen. I have also grown hydroponically and had quite a setup but the earthboxes still worked better here for me. I think that there tomato cage sold with the earthbox is a poor setup and I have rigged (in my opinion) a superior system for supports and at 1/4 the cost that gives your plants the ability to go up much higher which you need for many of these heirlooms.

October 29, 2010	#1
Andy Lappin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Sarasota, Florida Posts: 2	Growing in 5 gallon buckets, help I am new to this, I live in southwest florida and have planted big boy tomatoes in plastic 5 gallon buckets with many holes drilled in them for drainage. I went to Home depot and got organic soil, planted my maters and they did well for a rew weeks, got small tomatoes, they started wilting so I watered more, I stuck my hand down in the soil and it is like soaked in the bottoms, I think they got to much water. I also noted that the soil was very hot. They re in direct sunlite. What mistakes have I made, is it the soil, the buckets, the drainage etc? Thanks Andy

October 29, 2010	#5
ContainerTed Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: 6a - NE Tennessee Posts: 4,538	Use NO products that have the word "soil" in their name or contents. "MIX" is the only thing to put in buckets. Also, get some shade on the buckets themselves. You must be concerned with the temperature of the growing medium. Water only once a day on average days with average humidity, etc. Your holes in the buckets should be 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter, especially on the bottom. You want the growing medium (mix) to be damp, but not wet. You want it to contain some "voids" - small air spaces that provide oxygen to the roots. Totally WET mix doesn't have many air spaces. Think about beach sand just outside the damp effect of the waves. It will feel damp, but is well drained. That and slightly drier is what you're looking for. Because you will be washing out many of the nutrients, you must add them back with fertilizers and such more frequently than for an in-ground garden. And when you get all of the stuff about the growing medium correct, then return here and we can discuss the numerous critters that will want to chomp on your healthy plants. Then, it's on to "Pathogens 101". Take care Ted __________________ Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch

October 30, 2010	#6
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Roger on the Growing Mix. Make sure your containers are white or wrap white styrofoam sheet around them to block the sunlight. You don't need a lot of drainage holes maybe 3 or 4 the size Ted mentioned. You can make them on the side of the container maybe 1" above the bottom to form a small reservoir at the bottom. You want a mix that will drain well and add perlite which will help with the drainage and water retention of the mix so it won't dry out to quickly. Nutrient supplements will be needed during the course of the growing season as well as disease control. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

October 30, 2010	#7
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	Probably everything that you wanted to know about container mix and more: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/cn004 The diagnostics described in the document below are commercial operation oriented, but you may as well save the link, in case you ever want to know for sure: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/cn002 __________________ -- alias

October 31, 2010	#10
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	fortyonenorth, yes one plant per container. I add organic fertilizer to the aggregate plus lime and at plant out I use Mycorrhiza and Actinovate mixed in water and dip the plants into it and plant them in the containers. During the course of the season I use BioBizz BioGrow which is a liquid concentrate at 50ml per 10 liters. This year I added Biota Max to the pre-plant dip. Ami (fortyninenorth) __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

October 29, 2010	#2
FILMNET Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA Posts: 1,803	I put straw on the tops.

October 29, 2010	#3
recruiterg Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4) Posts: 945	You shouldn't use soil in a 5 gallon bucket. Use soilless potting mix. Some here recommend a mixture of 3 parts potting mix, 2 parts bark fines, 1 part perlite. Mulch the tops and only water when they dry out. Too much water can kill the plants as easily as too little water, although in FL, you might need to water every day and perhaps twice a day if it is super hot in the summer. I think some FL growers might help you out, but you might need a screen if direct sunlight is too hot (not clear if you are talking about now or mid-summer).

October 29, 2010	#4
sprtsguy76 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2007 Location: Santa Clara CA Posts: 1,125	I agree with Duane about using 'real soil' in containers, its a nightmare waiting to happen. I like to use a combo of 5 parts fir or pine bark fines, 1-2 part peat and 1-2 part perlite. Keep your containers out of direct sun, whatever you have to do, I use white plastic and line the outside of my containers to block the sun. Burying them in the ground is even a more cooler option if you will. Stick a wick into one of those many holes at the bottom of your container, it will help trick the pertched water to drain down the wick. Good luck. Damon

October 31, 2010	#9
fortyonenorth Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 1,150	Ami - can you comment on what type of nutrients you add and how often you add them during the growing season? It looks like you're growing one plant per ice chest, is that right?

October 31, 2010	#12
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I grow in very hot conditions as well and besides not using soil and mulching the tops I add some water holding crystals. They cut down on the frequency of watering and help maintain a more even moisture level in the containers. I mainly used plain old Miracle Grow to fertilize every week or two. I also added a small amount of cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, basic slag and mushroom compost when mixing up my planting mix.

October 31, 2010	#13
MargeH Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 224	Andy, I grow in containers in your area. I started with 5 gal pots but found them to be too small except for my dwarf plants and a few others like Sophie's Choice. I wanted to grow heirloom indeterminates and 5 gal containers aren't large enough for those plants. I have graduated to 40 gal. pots and I use the large tomato towers from Gardener's Supply for my support. I also only use a medium that says "mix" on the bag. If you want to invest a little more money, you might want to check out the Earthbox store in Ellenton. I have two of those and have had good luck with them. They offer demonstrations of how to plant the Earthbox and sell plants at the store. It is very near the Gamble Mansion off US 301. They were developed by a Manatee tomato grower and are now used by people around the world. Marjorie

October 31, 2010	#14
lowlylowlycook Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2010 Location: So. Illinois (6a) Posts: 147	You might want to read through the Florida Growers Thread for ideas if you haven't yet.

November 1, 2010	#15
beefyboy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Pt. Charlotte fl Posts: 330	I have 28 earthboxes myself and have used them since about 1992. They are the best bet for Florida growing that I have seen. I have also grown hydroponically and had quite a setup but the earthboxes still worked better here for me. I think that there tomato cage sold with the earthbox is a poor setup and I have rigged (in my opinion) a superior system for supports and at 1/4 the cost that gives your plants the ability to go up much higher which you need for many of these heirlooms.