More tomato problems? Help!

gryffin · July 14, 2011

I'm finding some more potential problems with my tomato plants. I'm a complete novice about trying to identify what the problem is- so many things look alike. I've tried the Cornell site and some web searches, but I'm confused. I'm also overwhelmed by the number of plants showing issues all at once and can't figure out how to prioritize them.

Here are some pictures of different things I'm seeing on different plants. Any advice or input is appreciated.

Plant #1: Old bottom leaves turning yellow

Plant #2: Leaves turning yellow, some brown spots on bottoms of leaves

Plant #3: Branches with dry green curling leaves, one shriveled and dark brown dry leaf (2 pictures)

Plant #4: Jaune Flamme with spindly foliage (2 pictures)

Plant #5: Heart Variety with spindly foliage (plant on right, one in left of pic with normal foliage is a different plant, (I put 2 plants in each of my Texas Tomato cages).

Plant #6 & #7: More yellowing leaves, not at bottom of plant (there is no #7- I got confused)

Plant #8: Leaf edges yellowing/browning

Plant #9: Brown spot on leaf

raindrops27 · July 14, 2011

I am no expert. My knowledge extends only to 5 yrs of tomato gardening. However, the top picture. Looks, like septoria. Which is a fungus, that spreads rapidly, if not treated. The remedy is to carefully remove all infected leaves. Using caution, not to touch uninfected leaves. Then treat weekly with a fungicide. After rain, treat again. I am sure a more knowledgeable tomato grower will chime in soon. Good luck..Hope, everything works out for you.

Heritage · July 17, 2011

What a nice collection of symptoms! I'll add my opinion:

1. Lower leaf senescence, normal pattern of old leaves as they die.

2. The light yellow pattern on the leaf on the far left and the yellow 'grainy' look on the underside of the leaf on right makes me think it could be early spider mite infestation. Use a hand lens to look under the yellow part of the leaves and see if you can find red spots (look like red dust with the naked eye) that resemble tiny spiders.

3. Probably environmental (inconsistent watering or heavy pruning) Not sure about the bottom photo - could be physical damage. If there are no symptoms on the upper foliage it is probably OK. Make sure it is getting watered properly.

4. & 5. The most worrisome. It's either herbicide damage of virus. The mottling and stringy leafs make me suspect Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV). It is transmitted by aphids so I would pull the plants. However, if it's herbicide damage there is a chance they could recover so it's your decision.

6. Could be early signs of fusarium wilt or possibly one of the blights.

7. See #2

8. not enough info to make a guess.

9. Probably fungal

If it were my plot of tomatoes I would carefully check the underside of the leaves for spider mites. If I saw mites I would make their control a priority. I would spray with a pesticide labeled for mite control. Follow with Daconil in a few days to control fungus diseases.

If no mites then I would reverse the spray program - Daconil first, followed by a pesticide in a few days.

Overall, it looks pretty typical for a tomato patch this time of the year. I have similar symptoms and pests.

Good Luck!
Steve

gryffin · July 18, 2011

Thanks for your feedback raindrops27 and Heritage.

I couldn't get a hold of a hand lens this weekend- I will try to find one and look for the spider mites ASAP. I have a garden dust which should be effective on them- it also has fungicidal ingredients, so it will be helpful in more ways than 1.

Since I couldn't verify the spider mites (and I saw no new damage like that shown in the pics, I pruned the yellow leaves and those with brown spots like those shown on plants 1, 2, 6, 8, and 9). I also treated all the plants with a spray of Serenade. In a few days, I will treat with the garden dust.

The plot is in a community garden that is restricted to organic controls, so I can't use the Daconil.

For the damage shown on plant 3- it's the only plant like that and the new foliage looks better, though still a little dry. I'm wondering about whether I'm getting enough water to the plants. They are planted through black plastic, and with two plants in each cage, when I water by hand, the roots are competing with each other. I'm trying to increase the amount of water each plant gets to help. I'm also considering poking some holes in the mulch to help get more water to the soil. I hadn't pruned the plant at all before yesterday- I did prune off some of the damaged foliage last night.

For 4&5, I'm going to sit tight a little longer- but I'm open to pulling the plants soon if it looks more like CMV than herbicide damage. I want to try to figure out the commonality between the affected plants- they are all in different spots in the tomato patch with the closest surrounding plants unaffected.

Thanks again!

Heritage · July 19, 2011

sounds good... also, if you have have a county extension office you might check to see if they do testing for CMV.

July 14, 2011	#1
gryffin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 229	More tomato problems? Help! I'm finding some more potential problems with my tomato plants. I'm a complete novice about trying to identify what the problem is- so many things look alike. I've tried the Cornell site and some web searches, but I'm confused. I'm also overwhelmed by the number of plants showing issues all at once and can't figure out how to prioritize them. Here are some pictures of different things I'm seeing on different plants. Any advice or input is appreciated. Plant #1: Old bottom leaves turning yellow Plant #2: Leaves turning yellow, some brown spots on bottoms of leaves Plant #3: Branches with dry green curling leaves, one shriveled and dark brown dry leaf (2 pictures) Plant #4: Jaune Flamme with spindly foliage (2 pictures) Plant #5: Heart Variety with spindly foliage (plant on right, one in left of pic with normal foliage is a different plant, (I put 2 plants in each of my Texas Tomato cages). Plant #6 & #7: More yellowing leaves, not at bottom of plant (there is no #7- I got confused) Plant #8: Leaf edges yellowing/browning Plant #9: Brown spot on leaf Last edited by gryffin; July 18, 2011 at 03:36 PM.

July 14, 2011	#2
raindrops27 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: long island Posts: 327	I am no expert. My knowledge extends only to 5 yrs of tomato gardening. However, the top picture. Looks, like septoria. Which is a fungus, that spreads rapidly, if not treated. The remedy is to carefully remove all infected leaves. Using caution, not to touch uninfected leaves. Then treat weekly with a fungicide. After rain, treat again. I am sure a more knowledgeable tomato grower will chime in soon. Good luck..Hope, everything works out for you.

July 17, 2011	#3
Heritage Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,255	What a nice collection of symptoms! I'll add my opinion: 1. Lower leaf senescence, normal pattern of old leaves as they die. 2. The light yellow pattern on the leaf on the far left and the yellow 'grainy' look on the underside of the leaf on right makes me think it could be early spider mite infestation. Use a hand lens to look under the yellow part of the leaves and see if you can find red spots (look like red dust with the naked eye) that resemble tiny spiders. 3. Probably environmental (inconsistent watering or heavy pruning) Not sure about the bottom photo - could be physical damage. If there are no symptoms on the upper foliage it is probably OK. Make sure it is getting watered properly. 4. & 5. The most worrisome. It's either herbicide damage of virus. The mottling and stringy leafs make me suspect Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV). It is transmitted by aphids so I would pull the plants. However, if it's herbicide damage there is a chance they could recover so it's your decision. 6. Could be early signs of fusarium wilt or possibly one of the blights. 7. See #2 8. not enough info to make a guess. 9. Probably fungal If it were my plot of tomatoes I would carefully check the underside of the leaves for spider mites. If I saw mites I would make their control a priority. I would spray with a pesticide labeled for mite control. Follow with Daconil in a few days to control fungus diseases. If no mites then I would reverse the spray program - Daconil first, followed by a pesticide in a few days. Overall, it looks pretty typical for a tomato patch this time of the year. I have similar symptoms and pests. Good Luck! Steve

July 18, 2011	#4
gryffin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 229	Thanks for your feedback raindrops27 and Heritage. I couldn't get a hold of a hand lens this weekend- I will try to find one and look for the spider mites ASAP. I have a garden dust which should be effective on them- it also has fungicidal ingredients, so it will be helpful in more ways than 1. Since I couldn't verify the spider mites (and I saw no new damage like that shown in the pics, I pruned the yellow leaves and those with brown spots like those shown on plants 1, 2, 6, 8, and 9). I also treated all the plants with a spray of Serenade. In a few days, I will treat with the garden dust. The plot is in a community garden that is restricted to organic controls, so I can't use the Daconil. For the damage shown on plant 3- it's the only plant like that and the new foliage looks better, though still a little dry. I'm wondering about whether I'm getting enough water to the plants. They are planted through black plastic, and with two plants in each cage, when I water by hand, the roots are competing with each other. I'm trying to increase the amount of water each plant gets to help. I'm also considering poking some holes in the mulch to help get more water to the soil. I hadn't pruned the plant at all before yesterday- I did prune off some of the damaged foliage last night. For 4&5, I'm going to sit tight a little longer- but I'm open to pulling the plants soon if it looks more like CMV than herbicide damage. I want to try to figure out the commonality between the affected plants- they are all in different spots in the tomato patch with the closest surrounding plants unaffected. Thanks again!

July 19, 2011	#5
Heritage Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,255	sounds good... also, if you have have a county extension office you might check to see if they do testing for CMV.