another ID help

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

early blight? these 3 photos are all from the same plant. this plant seems a little stunted compared to the plants around it

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

the 2nd photo was lowest on the plant of the three pictures posted

VC Scott · June 18, 2012

Sorry to say this looks like it could be early blight. Are there dark lesions on the stem? It's hard to tell from your pic.

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

there is one black spot towards the bottom. it is not large and its tough to tell if its disease or just user error(rubbed or nicked maybe by me)

ContainerTed · June 18, 2012

I would spray with an anti-fungal. It really looks like too much moisture and humidity residing on the leaves and then sun boiling the moisture away before the plant could get dry. The anti-fungal would be good to thwart any moisture loving pathogens remaining.

Have you had a lot of rain or have you been watering by wetting the foliage??

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

actinovate exel lg and molasses gets sprayed the recommended dose weekly.

had to pull 2 cher purples(bacterial issues) and now my brandywine from croatia and brandywinexnar are both showing this problem.

i agree it does look like a moisture issue but there are also black dots as you can see if you look closely to the top middle of picture 1.

ContainerTed · June 18, 2012

The plants that Craig sent me also had "dots", but that doesn't mean the end of the world. I cut the dots away and sprayed with Garden Safe 3 and the problems were solved. Don't jump off the end of the pier before the fat lady sings. Try Garden Safe 3 and some time. It is on the list of "organic" products. If you spray all with a good antifungal, then transfer of the problem is minimized.

I know that many folks swear by the "something and molasses" method. But my experience says that molasses is a sugar and that grows all kinds of stuff that I don't want on my plants. Just my way of looking at things.

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

http://www.amazon.com/Garden-Safe-10...=garden+safe+3

this what you're talking about?

ContainerTed · June 18, 2012

Yes, but Walmart has it a bit cheaper.

Use it to do preventative sprayings and you'll see some better results than those sugar-based pathogen growers (in my opinion). I see it this way. I want to kill them, not feed them. If actinovate can "excite" my plants or "activate" them, then why would I activate pathogens and then feed them?? (again, just my way of thinking about this subject).

Your results may vary. I really don't recommend that anyone do things the way I do them. But I have pretty good success and I don't spend a lot of money on "weird" chemicals or compounds that just don't sound like anything natural to me. If I have a pathogen that I need to kill off of my plants, I surely don't think I should feed them pure sugar energy. Doesn't make logical sense to me. Am I strengthening the plant or the pathogen??? I look at it as this. The plant has enough to do with making tomatoes for me. I feel that I should help it to kill off its enemies. Maybe I'm too naive, but it's the way I do things and I always have plenty of tomatoes.

JMHO.

RayR · June 18, 2012

That's Early Blight and it's sporelating. Cut those infected leaves off and trash them pronto. Exel lg does not control Early Blight, Actinovate does, keep spraying both sides of the leaves and the surface of the bed.

Ted, you can't feed a pathogenic fungus like Early Blight. They are not free living organisms, they have to infect a plant and get their food from their victim to survive and multiply.

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

ted well said. i might agree with you after this season. i do have a few healthy plants though and i am new to the gardening scene.

if i didnt use anything i might have 12 healthy plants or maybe 12 diseased plants, i just dont know. i really have no history here. only my dad growing hybrids at a different location.

i am right on the beach and its very wet and cool here. i have without a doubt battled with bacterial speck and i think bacterial spot and maybe canker. this plant and one other just have something new going on.

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayR

That's Early Blight and it's sporelating. Cut those infected leaves off and trash them pronto. Exel lg does not control Early Blight, Actinovate does, keep spraying both sides of the leaves and the surface of the bed.

Ted, you can't feed a pathogenic fungus like Early Blight. They are not free living organisms, they have to infect a plant and get their food from their victim to survive and multiply.

all infected leaves are removed immediately but soon i will have no leaves left to remove

babice · June 18, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by TightenUp

if i didnt use anything i might have 12 healthy plants or maybe 12 diseased plants, i just dont know. i really have no history here. only my dad growing hybrids at a different location.

Yep and you could always choose different as a sticker if you get worried about the molasses such as yucca extract or castille soap... I have a couple jars of molasses that I want to use up so I'm trying that to try that to start with. But I too am a newbie so...

BTW - since this is the only tom showing this, have you isolated it from the others for now? JIK?

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by babice

Yep and you could always choose different as a sticker if you get worried about the molasses such as yucca extract or castille soap... I have a couple jars of molasses that I want to use up so I'm trying that to try that to start with. But I too am a newbie so...

BTW - since this is the only tom showing this, have you isolated it from the others for now? JIK?

i have 2 showing this. 1 brandywine from croatia and 1 brandywine x nar. i have a plant between the 2 that is only showing very very minor spot issues and i believe its cause the plants are close together and were touching. i think its a kelloggs breakfast between them

funny cause i have a kelloggs breakfast between my 2 cher purples which both got pulled and the kelloggs breakfast looks ok.

the cher purples got replaced with roma plum tomatoes and i have a lemmon boy, rutgers and beefmaster waiting in small pots in case i have to rip out the 2 brandywines. i guess its still early enough

TightenUp · June 18, 2012

and no i didnt segregate them. they are in a raised bed so i either yank em and throw em in the garbage or keep them and hope things get better

June 18, 2012	#5
ContainerTed Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: 6a - NE Tennessee Posts: 4,538	I would spray with an anti-fungal. It really looks like too much moisture and humidity residing on the leaves and then sun boiling the moisture away before the plant could get dry. The anti-fungal would be good to thwart any moisture loving pathogens remaining. Have you had a lot of rain or have you been watering by wetting the foliage?? __________________ Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch

June 18, 2012	#7
ContainerTed Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: 6a - NE Tennessee Posts: 4,538	The plants that Craig sent me also had "dots", but that doesn't mean the end of the world. I cut the dots away and sprayed with Garden Safe 3 and the problems were solved. Don't jump off the end of the pier before the fat lady sings. Try Garden Safe 3 and some time. It is on the list of "organic" products. If you spray all with a good antifungal, then transfer of the problem is minimized. I know that many folks swear by the "something and molasses" method. But my experience says that molasses is a sugar and that grows all kinds of stuff that I don't want on my plants. Just my way of looking at things. __________________ Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch

June 18, 2012	#9
ContainerTed Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: 6a - NE Tennessee Posts: 4,538	Yes, but Walmart has it a bit cheaper. Use it to do preventative sprayings and you'll see some better results than those sugar-based pathogen growers (in my opinion). I see it this way. I want to kill them, not feed them. If actinovate can "excite" my plants or "activate" them, then why would I activate pathogens and then feed them?? (again, just my way of thinking about this subject). Your results may vary. I really don't recommend that anyone do things the way I do them. But I have pretty good success and I don't spend a lot of money on "weird" chemicals or compounds that just don't sound like anything natural to me. If I have a pathogen that I need to kill off of my plants, I surely don't think I should feed them pure sugar energy. Doesn't make logical sense to me. Am I strengthening the plant or the pathogen??? I look at it as this. The plant has enough to do with making tomatoes for me. I feel that I should help it to kill off its enemies. Maybe I'm too naive, but it's the way I do things and I always have plenty of tomatoes. JMHO. __________________ Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch

June 18, 2012	#2
TightenUp Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Jersey Posts: 1,183	the 2nd photo was lowest on the plant of the three pictures posted

June 18, 2012	#3
VC Scott Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: San Marcos, CA Posts: 352	Sorry to say this looks like it could be early blight. Are there dark lesions on the stem? It's hard to tell from your pic.

June 18, 2012	#10
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,468	That's Early Blight and it's sporelating. Cut those infected leaves off and trash them pronto. Exel lg does not control Early Blight, Actinovate does, keep spraying both sides of the leaves and the surface of the bed. Ted, you can't feed a pathogenic fungus like Early Blight. They are not free living organisms, they have to infect a plant and get their food from their victim to survive and multiply.