New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 13, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 29
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heat mats
when starting plants in the basement under grow lights should I remove the heat mats after the seeds have sprouted ?................... Or leave the heat on while the plants grow until time to transplant to the garden .
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March 13, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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I take the heat mat out once germination has taken place.
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March 13, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Agreed. Definitely take the mat off. Just keep the lights real close.
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March 13, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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The trick when sprouting multiple varieties that have different germination rates is to time it right. Don't wait till everything has finished sprouting. Take them off the heat mat when the majority has sprouted or has started sprouting.
BUT There are times being on a heat mat actually helps even AFTER the plants have sprouted. If you are using natural light and natural heat, and the greenhouse or low tunnel or cold frame, whatever, would get too cold because of the weather, yet there is plenty of sunshine, then plug that heat mat in! At least at night. Just use your judgement. With experience, that judgement will get better and better.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
March 17, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: zone 5
Posts: 821
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My heat mat is smaller than my tray so I tend to move my plants around alot. Sprouted plants get immediately moved to the cooler zone.
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April 11, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 14
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Good advise here - remove or shut off mat once seedlings emerge. The only exceptions I've made with good results were with some of my hot peppers. They seem to thrive on the warmer soil until they have their first set than I usually give them the "cold treatment" for a few weeks.
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April 11, 2013 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore
Posts: 993
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Quote:
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March 26, 2014 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 142
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Sorry for necroing this old post, but I'm just starting now.
Last year, I grew a few plants from seeds, but this is the first year I'm really taking it seriously. I bought a 98-cell tray with it's own clear enclosure and a heat pad to go under it. I planted four days ago, and the results so far have been far better than I expected. The slicing and pickling cukes are four inches tall after only four days!. I've had to repot them already. I've got a wide assortment in the rest of the cells. Twelve varieties of tomatoes, a few herbs, a few peppers, etc. Aside from the cukes, about a third have sprouted and some are an inch tall. But the rest are showing no action whatsoever. So I guess I'm concerned about what to do. Will the heat harm the sprouts? It's still very cold here in the Boston area. Snow today and below freezing. At night, the temperature in the house gets down to about 60. Inside the seedling container with the heat pad and under the grow light, it's typically 75-82. I wish I could split out the seedlings from the under-achievers, but that isn't possible without hacking my tray, which I'd prefer not to do. Which is the lesser of the two evils? |
March 26, 2014 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Quote:
Planting everything in the same tray will be a real pain- figuring out a way to get the things that sprout into strong light and out from under the humidity dome as soon as they emerge is critical and they also won't be happy if you keep them on the heat mat for very long, ie. they'll get tall and thin. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... kath |
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March 26, 2014 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 142
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Not bad news - helpful news. So perhaps these 1" seedlings should be replanted?
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March 26, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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March 26, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 142
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March 26, 2014 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Tomatoes can stay in 72-size-cells until they have at least one set of true leaves. That's the size I'm familiar with and I usually pot up between 2-3 weeks when the root ball is established. Not sure about basil. Again, just make sure they're getting the light they need.
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March 26, 2014 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Enchant,
Kath is right on all counts. You could go ahead and repot the Toms if you are careful. You could also let them ride awhile longer. Easy to cure leggy toms later by potting them deep. The cukes - I hope you have larger pots and extra space. I usually wait an extra 10 to 14 days to start them as they get out of control quick indoors. |
March 26, 2014 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 142
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Thanks for all the good info. I think I'll give them another day and then start repotting them, being very careful.
One thing that I've discovered is that plants tend to be a lot more durable and resilient than I give them credit for. Last year when I planted some seeds, there were a few plans that just didn't look all that healthy, so I kept the good ones and just dumped these at the edge of the woods. About couple months later, I happened by that area, and several of them had taken root on their own and were doing quite well. And next year, the cukes can probably wait a little longer to be planted. |
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