New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 29, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
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How can some seeds in the same tray not germinate?
Seems to be a bit of a frustration to me this year. Seeds are sown in a 72 cell pack with bottom heat and covered dome. Yet, in each tray (2 trays of 36), I have random seeds that never pop up. All the soil is about the same in regards to moisture, and I've checked the mats to make sure they heat pretty evenly, and yet....some are no shows. Like a bad date. lol
Some are more disappointing because they are from folks who want feedback so that is upsetting when you only have a few seeds. My saved seeds are all hearty and up doing well, but those Cherokee Purples, I am on the second go around, different seed stock, and these are not popping up either. what gives?
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Antoniette |
March 30, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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I am having a rough time this year as well. Been trying lots of new varities from the swap and some nice tv's. Almost a third are not germinating in the same tray and I just finished the second go around in a different medium (Espoma, which I finally tried and is my favorite), still nothing on some.
What tomato varities are particularly hard / slow to germinate? |
March 30, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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The answers can be varied.
If the non-germinating seeds came thru the mail in a regular envelope, then they may have been crushed by the rollers in the Post Office sorting machines. If the seeds that were received sat in the mailbox with temps below freezing, they may have received damage depending on their internal moisture level. Most folks consider 90% and above to be excellent germination rates. Not all seeds that reach mature size are viable. Mother Nature has a way of messing up some of them. All the possibilities are going to show up sooner or later. Moisture levels that get too high in the growing medium can cause the seeds to rot. Folks who reuse mix to start new seeds have a higher probably of this. Mold spores can be retained and begin the downhill spiral. That's why I always start with clean/fresh "sterile" starter mix. Not being able to maintain steady temps can also add to your misery during the germination phase. If you can apply any of the above to your situation (even partially), you may identify your specific problem. Hope this helps.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
March 30, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 1,332
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Lakelady, If you have any seeds left of those varieties, maybe you could try starting them in moist paper towels in plastic bags, placed on a warm surface. (Some say the top of the fridge, but I like the top of my monitor.)
For some odd reason, that seems to get great results for me. You can tell pretty quickly if the seeds are viable or not. The bonus is that you know exactly whether or not they have germinated before you put them in the soil. |
March 30, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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I have had the same problem in year's past especially with my dwarf project seeds. I think the problem is that seeds germinate at different rates. Hence, you take the plastic wrap off the top when the early seeds have germinated, but the ones that take a little longer don't germinate as readily without the plastic wrap cover. When you take them off the heat and put them under the lights, they don't stand a chance.
This year I used the paper towel/coffee filter germination method. I had much better results. I germinate the seeds without heat. Once the seeds germinate, I move them into 4x4 (32 per flat) plastic planter inserts with Black Gold seedling mix, then cover really lightly with more mix, spritzed with water, covered with plastic wrap, and put in a south facing window covered in plastic wrap on a heating mat. I had excellent results. Make sure the seeds are well washed prior to starting sometimes a little mold develops if they are not clean. This is my preferred method for pepper seeds, too. |
March 30, 2013 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
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Quote:
if i have issues getting seeds to germinate in the cells i put a couple in some moist paper towels and then in a sealed plastic bag. toss the bag on my cable box and open bag every day for some fresh air. this usually gets the job done in 3 days
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March 30, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 1,332
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I don't even seal the plastic bag, Chef Jeff.
They stay moist enough, even with it open, and that way I don't have to remember to let in air. (And with my memory, or lack thereof, every extra step I have to remember makes me more likely to mess it up!) |
March 30, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
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I use fresh Espoma or Fox Farms seed starting mix every time. Although, I am noticing I get better germination with the coir mixtures for some reason. And as soon as I notice seedlings popping up, I get a small spoon, remove those to tiny plastic cups with holes in the bottom to give them light and room, and put the cover back on for the rest. Sadly, several of my seeds from Carolyn's offer have not germinated at all, which is hugely disappointing for me. Those and the darn Cherokee Purples. I tried from two sources on the CP, two times, and I think its playing me now. seriously. lol The Dr. Wyche's Yellow was older seed, didn't work first go around, second time it sprouted just fine.
I know a lot of my seeds are coming from different sources so it's really tough to guage whether or not they are going to sprout because I don't know anything about them. I tried the paper towel and baggie method last year and the paper towels kept drying up on me so I gave up. sheesh. I don't usually have this many germinating problems so I'm a bit stumped. My basil went gangbusters and now I have about 40 baby basil plants (more than I can use....maybe !)
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Antoniette |
March 30, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
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when i do the paper towel method i use an entire paper towel folded a bunch of times and get it pretty moist. i would say between "wet" and "damp". its not dripping but if i wring it out it would
if you seal the plastic bag there is no where for the moisture to go and the towel stays wet
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March 30, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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did you seed using the lunar period? lol,, just kidding.. I been there too. plenty of seeds on handand usually more than enough plants beforeplants go in the garden. My problem is trying to squeeze too many plants.. I like keeping them two feet apart all around.
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john |
March 30, 2013 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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john |
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March 30, 2013 | #12 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
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Aside from seed age, which is always a factor, it's very true that the seeds of some varieties differ in the time it takes them to germinate.
In addition, sow 5 seeds produced in 2012 and there's no easy way to control the depth you sowed those seeds, especially after watering them in. I'm not a fan of moist paper towel methods in a baggie b'c I've seen too many situations where mold takes over. And I'm dead set against using those plastic domes unless one end is propped open since I've seen far too many persons cook the seeds, So manyvariables, many of which were mentioned above as to temps, etc. I don't worry about seed germination until about two weeks after sowing seed. Lastly, if we're talking about my recent seed offer and the newest ones where seed was produced in 2012, I have no idea what the germination rates will be b'c different folks who help me did seed production and some seeds were donated so I have no idea at allwhat the germination %should be or will be. What do know is that someone will get no germiation at all while someone else will get 100% with the same variety, All you have to do is to look at the germination thread from last year to see that. The only ones I produced were from Dester and I used those first before the ones kindly donated by Darlene, Carolyn
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Carolyn |
March 30, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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My germination this year has been more difficult than last year, but I think it's because of the cold and cloudy weather. The sun doesn't seem to want to come out this spring.
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March 30, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
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I know there are a lot of variables it just seems odd to me that in the same tray, same conditions, a few varieties seem more resistant to germinating than others. I don't even keep the trays in the sunlight while germinating as they don't need them, and I take the seedlings out right away once they pop up. Second go around on several is better for some reason (same treatment, maybe a bit more water, I tend to keep things on the drier side because of problems in the past with damping off and mold).
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Antoniette |
March 30, 2013 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
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Antoniette |
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